are you guys really using that much torque?
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
Yeh, get that mother back on REAL tight. After a H/C install my motor squeeked bad. I thought I had a bad pulley.
It turns out the crank bolt was not re-tightened to factory specs. Mine was so tight from the factory that I had to use a five foot lead pipe and a 1/2 breaker bar to get it off....
You don't have to use a new crank bolt but nearly everyone does at $5 each
It turns out the crank bolt was not re-tightened to factory specs. Mine was so tight from the factory that I had to use a five foot lead pipe and a 1/2 breaker bar to get it off....
You don't have to use a new crank bolt but nearly everyone does at $5 each
exactically how many ft/lbs of torque you guys using... dont tell me to look at ls1howto.com because i've read it i just dont believe it takes that much torque...
i want a person whos done this them self... not "hear say" (spell)
Tyler
i want a person whos done this them self... not "hear say" (spell)
Tyler
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 480
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth, TX
Originally Posted by Bluehawk27
Do it like LS1howto says, i've done a few of these with no problems.
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Verdad Gallardo ha...got ya beat....
it took 2 people on mine.. but it was me underneath pulling on the torque wrench...and using the tire as leverage.... and a 2nd person holding their foot on the brake....while it was in 6th gear...and the emergency brake was on....
I kept spinning the thing before it was tight...(car was up on all 4 jackstands)
it took 2 people on mine.. but it was me underneath pulling on the torque wrench...and using the tire as leverage.... and a 2nd person holding their foot on the brake....while it was in 6th gear...and the emergency brake was on....
I kept spinning the thing before it was tight...(car was up on all 4 jackstands)
soundengineer, is correct in his post. The crank bolt is a torque to YIELD bolt. Meaning once it's torqued it actually stretches and therefore CANNOT be used again!!!!
Everytime your crank pulley comes off you MUST buy another crank bolt.
Everytime your crank pulley comes off you MUST buy another crank bolt.
Just as a comparison, on my Buick GN the crank pulley spec is 250+ ft.lb. That is actually how the service manual states it, at least 250 ft.lb with no upper limit listed. Its not a TTY bolt either.
Originally Posted by www.LS1HowTo.com
Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. I have always stopped at 200lbft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
o well, guess its time to find another 5 foot cast iron pipe. 
