UD Pulley - Anyone ever have to. . . .
Put a block of wood over the front of their new UD pulley and beat in down the first inch with a hammer?

I thought I had the bases covered. I had heated the pulley for an hour in ~180 degree oven. I used a light oil on the crank snout & the inner crank area of the pulley. Put it over the crank, and the pulley only goes on 1/32 inch!
I thought, "somebody didn't machine the last thousandth on this pulley."
Here it is a Sunday, and I need the project done! So I used a 2x6 across the pulley face, and struck it with a heavy mallet. Did that until pullery moved up enough to engage a safe margin of threads of the bolt.
Frankly, I'll admit I betting that the engine was tough enough to handle the abuse on the crank. Time will tell, huh?
I couldn't get my stock pulley back on using the way you listed. I heated the inner dia of the stocker a little with a small torch and it slid right on. Puttting it into the oven didn't do jack.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

Actually, I called a sponsor and talked to their tech, and while he said they have that pulley installation tool, he said the LS1 is a tough engine, and I needn't worry about some banging on the crank.
To the guy that said I was mad,
There was no "right way" to install the pulley w/o the extra long threaded tool, which I didn't have, and most don't ever need!
I didn't want to heat the pulley any hotter than I did. I already had to use gloves to hold it. Any hotter, and the rubber they used in between hubs could have been softened too much.
And thanks to 240M3SRT for the suggestion, yes the pulley went on normally after the first inch, and I was able to follow the torquing proceedure from that point on as per spec. She's seated and solid.
if 180 expands it, 500 will REALLY EXPAND IT

it might just slip over the whole car at that temp

edit: read last post :homer: DOH :/homer:
i used this method for putting some axle bearings inside the carrier on my 4 wheeler, i got the carrier so hot, that i could drop one bearing in, and it would promptly fall out when i would turn it over and try to install the other side
To the guy that said I was mad,
There was no "right way" to install the pulley w/o the extra long threaded tool, which I didn't have, and most don't ever need!
I usually heat at 300degF for 15min, try it, then back in the oven for another 10min, try it, repeat as necessary for it to slide most of the way onto the crank snout.
Then out comes the threaded rod w/ roller thrust bearing and hardened washer for the final seating.
if 180 expands it, 500 will REALLY EXPAND IT

it might just slip over the whole car at that temp

edit: read last post :homer: DOH :/homer:
i used this method for putting some axle bearings inside the carrier on my 4 wheeler, i got the carrier so hot, that i could drop one bearing in, and it would promptly fall out when i would turn it over and try to install the other side

Yep 500* here as well for 15 min or so. And about the axle carrier on the 4 wheeler, that's what I ALWAYS did on my 400EX. Heat the carrier, freeze the bearings, and they will FALL, yes FALL in. I had the same thing happen to me as you, turn it over to do the other side and the bearing fell out No worry about the crank.
As to the longer bolt, if I was going to do the job twice or more often, yes I would have gotten an installation bolt.
But the way everybody talked about pulley installation on the LS1/LS2 forums, it wasn't a big deal to start the pulley on the crank.
That was the reason for the post. Just a commentary on how {at least one pulley} was more difficult to start than most.
Cheers!
I have also ran into a few unusually tough balancers on LSx motors. I used a brake wheel cylinder hone & drill to clean it up & ease the installation. Still was tight, but not near impossible like they where B-4.





