fnbrowning

First off, I don't want to name the popular pulley manufacturer, flaming would not solve anything.

Put a block of wood over the front of their new UD pulley and beat in down the first inch with a hammer?

I thought I had the bases covered. I had heated the pulley for an hour in ~180 degree oven. I used a light oil on the crank snout & the inner crank area of the pulley. Put it over the crank, and the pulley only goes on 1/32 inch!

I thought, "somebody didn't machine the last thousandth on this pulley."

Here it is a Sunday, and I need the project done! So I used a 2x6 across the pulley face, and struck it with a heavy mallet. Did that until pullery moved up enough to engage a safe margin of threads of the bolt.

Frankly, I'll admit I betting that the engine was tough enough to handle the abuse on the crank. Time will tell, huh?

Tally TransAm

iTrader: (17)

so your mad you didnt install a pulley the right way?

240M3SRT

Make sure the pulley is fully seated or the belts wont line up straight and may fall off.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

I think you'll be fine - sounds like you tried the install the right way the first time round, and it didn't work. But it had to get on there one way or another right?

blkZ28spt

I wouldn't want to do that to the crank.

I couldn't get my stock pulley back on using the way you listed. I heated the inner dia of the stocker a little with a small torch and it slid right on. Puttting it into the oven didn't do jack.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

What he said.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

SLP CARS '98

iTrader: (1)

ditto

fnbrowning

RIGHT!

Actually, I called a sponsor and talked to their tech, and while he said they have that pulley installation tool, he said the LS1 is a tough engine, and I needn't worry about some banging on the crank.

To the guy that said I was mad,
There was no "right way" to install the pulley w/o the extra long threaded tool, which I didn't have, and most don't ever need!

I didn't want to heat the pulley any hotter than I did. I already had to use gloves to hold it. Any hotter, and the rubber they used in between hubs could have been softened too much.

And thanks to 240M3SRT for the suggestion, yes the pulley went on normally after the first inch, and I was able to follow the torquing proceedure from that point on as per spec. She's seated and solid.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

180* is not enough! throw that baby in there on 500* lol

if 180 expands it, 500 will REALLY EXPAND IT

it might just slip over the whole car at that temp

edit: read last post :homer: DOH :/homer:

i used this method for putting some axle bearings inside the carrier on my 4 wheeler, i got the carrier so hot, that i could drop one bearing in, and it would promptly fall out when i would turn it over and try to install the other side

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Most may never need it, but some have wished they had used it. Do a search under 'stripped crank threads' or similar.

I usually heat at 300degF for 15min, try it, then back in the oven for another 10min, try it, repeat as necessary for it to slide most of the way onto the crank snout.

Then out comes the threaded rod w/ roller thrust bearing and hardened washer for the final seating.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Get the longer bolt, it saves you so much time and effort. If you can't find the longer bolt, you can do like I did and cut the head off of the old GM bolt, weld another section of the same diameter bolt onto that, then weld the head back on. VOILA! You now have a longer bolt that you can use and u've only spent 15 cents on a generic bolt of the same diameter.

CATDIESEL

Wont beating on the end of the crank damage the thrust bearings?

Addicted

Why not use a 120mm long bolt like a lot of us to start the pulley? I've done mine three times, and I never it found it complicated, it's a tight fit but not a hard job.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Yep 500* here as well for 15 min or so. And about the axle carrier on the 4 wheeler, that's what I ALWAYS did on my 400EX. Heat the carrier, freeze the bearings, and they will FALL, yes FALL in. I had the same thing happen to me as you, turn it over to do the other side and the bearing fell out

fnbrowning

I talked to three mechanics, one big sponsor's mechanic, one with the local GM dealership, another has 26 years of field experience.
No worry about the crank.

As to the longer bolt, if I was going to do the job twice or more often, yes I would have gotten an installation bolt.

But the way everybody talked about pulley installation on the LS1/LS2 forums, it wasn't a big deal to start the pulley on the crank.

That was the reason for the post. Just a commentary on how {at least one pulley} was more difficult to start than most.

Cheers!

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

For future I would also get a long bolt to install this thing.
I have also ran into a few unusually tough balancers on LSx motors. I used a brake wheel cylinder hone & drill to clean it up & ease the installation. Still was tight, but not near impossible like they where B-4.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

im about to install a march pulley on my car, i can get it started on the crank, i havent pushed it on yet im waiting for the oil pump. so you guys recommend heating at about 300* in the oven for 15 min and then try to put it on? if i go to the store to get a longer bolt, what is the size that i need? ill have to find the thread pitch gauge i have out side and see if the hardware store may have something.

blkZ28spt

Is the March pulley the one that has some liquid in it?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

yeah it is, fluid damped

i asked about heating it and was told it wont effect the liquid, but now that you bring that up again it makes me question if its safe??