Exhaust backfires, running rich, poor mileage....come in! (AIR removal)
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Guys,
Sorry for the late reply....I was on vacation!
Tranzamman,
I'm glad the write-up fixed your backfires.
JBIRD02,
Sorry bud, but you are going to have to shed some blood, especially as a result of the plastic screws (or whatever they are) holding the plastic molding at the bottom of the windshield cutting into your arm.
Remember, the bolt only needs to be loosened up a bit in order to get the bracket out.....that end of the bracket is a fork. You do have to get the wrench on and reposition your hand to loosen the bolt......I know it's tough!
jimmypop,
Mine seems to have gone out at about 24-25k miles.
Guys.......thanks for all the compliments! To date, I've had not a single exhaust backfire. I am confident the super-rich condition I had was a direct result of the bad check valves. I'm hoping to see much better oil analysis results next time around; although it won't be for over 9 months......I'll soon be deploying.
You all have a great day!!
Sorry for the late reply....I was on vacation!
Tranzamman,
I'm glad the write-up fixed your backfires.
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JBIRD02,
Sorry bud, but you are going to have to shed some blood, especially as a result of the plastic screws (or whatever they are) holding the plastic molding at the bottom of the windshield cutting into your arm.
Remember, the bolt only needs to be loosened up a bit in order to get the bracket out.....that end of the bracket is a fork. You do have to get the wrench on and reposition your hand to loosen the bolt......I know it's tough!
jimmypop,
Mine seems to have gone out at about 24-25k miles.
Guys.......thanks for all the compliments! To date, I've had not a single exhaust backfire. I am confident the super-rich condition I had was a direct result of the bad check valves. I'm hoping to see much better oil analysis results next time around; although it won't be for over 9 months......I'll soon be deploying.
You all have a great day!!
#22
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I'm gonna remove my check valves next weekend. I was checking my air system one day a while back because of a code and I noticed a vacum at the check valves. I thought, no big deal I'll take that crap off one day. Since then my exhaust back fires and it smells rich. I never put the two together. I feel like a big dummy for not thinking about it messing up the air/fuel ratio. I'm gonna get that crap off there next weekend.
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on a '99 do you remove everything that is behind the headlight, i have the big round pump, and then there is a cylinder next to it. Does that go too? Or is it easiest ot just remove the entire bracket holding all of that?
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Good, relevant post.
My GTO has 33,500 miles on it..I put 1100 miles on it per week. I've started to notice that the inside of my exhaust pipes and the tail-end of my car have become very sooty as of late...this, along with the noticable drop-off in fuel economy (at least 1 to 1.5mpg average) point to my LS1 running way too rich. I had suspected it before a catastrophic transmission failure I experienced at 31k miles, but it is obviously much worse now... while it was in for the warranty problem, the dealership performed a fuel system maintenance (cleaning the fuel rails and changing at least one of the fuel filters) as to partially recompensate me for their first-time clusterfeck- Long story.
What is weird is that with the Accel Blue flat air filter (essentially a European K&N filter) and JHP/HSV MAF tube I added ~10-12k miles back, the car should be getting more air. Even assuming that the EEPROM computer did not properly adjust to these new additions, shouldn't the car be running leaner?
I haven't noticed any performance drop off, really...The air filter is clear and clear. I'm resetting the PCM now to see if it'll relearn properly this time...but now I'm starting to wonder if the check valves may be stuck...
My GTO has 33,500 miles on it..I put 1100 miles on it per week. I've started to notice that the inside of my exhaust pipes and the tail-end of my car have become very sooty as of late...this, along with the noticable drop-off in fuel economy (at least 1 to 1.5mpg average) point to my LS1 running way too rich. I had suspected it before a catastrophic transmission failure I experienced at 31k miles, but it is obviously much worse now... while it was in for the warranty problem, the dealership performed a fuel system maintenance (cleaning the fuel rails and changing at least one of the fuel filters) as to partially recompensate me for their first-time clusterfeck- Long story.
What is weird is that with the Accel Blue flat air filter (essentially a European K&N filter) and JHP/HSV MAF tube I added ~10-12k miles back, the car should be getting more air. Even assuming that the EEPROM computer did not properly adjust to these new additions, shouldn't the car be running leaner?
I haven't noticed any performance drop off, really...The air filter is clear and clear. I'm resetting the PCM now to see if it'll relearn properly this time...but now I'm starting to wonder if the check valves may be stuck...
#27
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Last_Z great article ! Thanks alot, I'm in the process of doing this now.
Don't buy a new lid !! check this out I've got something for you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...42#post3336742
I have an extra one sitting on my desk, as thanks for a great article say the word and it's yours. If you want PM or email me your shipping info.
-Nick
slpss01@yahoo.com
Don't buy a new lid !! check this out I've got something for you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...42#post3336742
I have an extra one sitting on my desk, as thanks for a great article say the word and it's yours. If you want PM or email me your shipping info.
-Nick
slpss01@yahoo.com
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well i have headers and plan to delete the cats like i did before but i went out of state and needed a new y pipe so they had to put cats or else they waouldnt touch it,plus i had to put a block off plate on the pass side AIR hose for the reason that where it bolts to the header was stripped,so im only running 1 side
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Originally Posted by SLPSS01
Last_Z great article ! Thanks alot, I'm in the process of doing this now.
Don't buy a new lid !! check this out I've got something for you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...42#post3336742
I have an extra one sitting on my desk, as thanks for a great article say the word and it's yours. If you want PM or email me your shipping info.
-Nick
slpss01@yahoo.com
Don't buy a new lid !! check this out I've got something for you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...42#post3336742
I have an extra one sitting on my desk, as thanks for a great article say the word and it's yours. If you want PM or email me your shipping info.
-Nick
slpss01@yahoo.com
I'm very sorry for the VERY late reply. Guys, I've spent the last 7 months (since 17 Jul 05) training for and deployed to Iraq. I see the write up has helped quite a few of you. I am very glad and happy I was able to help with a very annoying problem. Anyway...SLPSS01, I couldn't see the pictures of the plug? I'll take your word for it that it looks good and flushed. Do you still have a spare one? Let me know if you want to sell it or where I can get one?
SickSS,
You WILL throw a code.....it does not affect anything however.
408Maro,
I see no reson for you to run the A.I.R. System. The system is only designed for the first 5 minutes after a cold start. The system injects air into the cats to get them functioning quicker. After the cats "light-up", the A.I.R. System has no use. Removing the AIR System will shorten the life of the cats somewhat, but I compensate by driving right off after a cold start.....easy driving though!
Hope this clears things up.
#34
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http://nick.vettextc.net/AIR%20Removal/LidPlug07.jpg
http://nick.vettextc.net/AIR%20Removal/LidPlug08.jpg
I'll check the garage to see if I still have it. Otherwise you can order free samples from this place:
http://www.caplugs.com/
the part number is: BPF-1 1/8-6
http://nick.vettextc.net/AIR%20Removal/LidPlug08.jpg
I'll check the garage to see if I still have it. Otherwise you can order free samples from this place:
http://www.caplugs.com/
the part number is: BPF-1 1/8-6
#36
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Very nice writeup!
I also want to add that you can have the AIR codes deleted (as well as EGR, rear O2's, etc) by a speedshop w/ HP tuners/LS1edit. They should charge WAY less than the price for a full tune to do this simple edit job. MTI in Houston charged me $75 bux, which is cheaper than buying O2 sims!
I also want to add that you can have the AIR codes deleted (as well as EGR, rear O2's, etc) by a speedshop w/ HP tuners/LS1edit. They should charge WAY less than the price for a full tune to do this simple edit job. MTI in Houston charged me $75 bux, which is cheaper than buying O2 sims!
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Originally Posted by Last_Z
SLPSS01,
Thanks for the previous links.....I had already ordered a smaple over a week ago. It fits very nicely!
Thanks!
Thanks for the previous links.....I had already ordered a smaple over a week ago. It fits very nicely!
Thanks!