Exhaust backfires, running rich, poor mileage....come in! (AIR removal)
12-25-2008, 03:15 PM
#83
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AIR Removal? Pros? Cons? Just wonderin wat id be lookin at if i were to remove my AIR pump...also if you've ever messed with it any advise? how easy is it and where can i get the block off plates?
05-03-2010, 10:41 PM
#85
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Air Removal Hi.
I just joined & was hooked up "with O2 sensors or not" via google. I can't open the pic's for some reason? can you email them to me. I will send some cool pic's of my T/A in return.
I will be going with the hookers soon (ERG will have to be deadended) then the ECM will have to be done at some "deleting rear o2 sensors, ERG & Air so it will be good to know what crap to take off. I have a "Borla Exhaust" (not true dual exhaust, sounds good), Texas Speed Y Pipe w/bullet cats will go in. Car came w/ K&N cold air intake & shock tower brace from BMR. I have a throttle body spacer to go in, a Lunati cam will go in (still finding out what other trimmings are needed for this {lifters, springs ect.})
My intake manifold is Plastic???, probably get a better one (aluminium) for more air. Other than larger injectors, hotter coils i think thats it for the engine unless other wise opting for a "procharger" super charger after seeing RWHP on the dyno. Beacause of the t-tops subframe connectors should be used to prevent wrinkling the uni-body underneath w/supercharging (i have T-TOP's, ECM will also have to be done. And last some suspension & gear ratio work is` all i can think of w/o gold-plating the car itself (LOL). sorry i wrote a book as usual, the pic's would be nice.
thks.
brian.
I just joined & was hooked up "with O2 sensors or not" via google. I can't open the pic's for some reason? can you email them to me. I will send some cool pic's of my T/A in return.
I will be going with the hookers soon (ERG will have to be deadended) then the ECM will have to be done at some "deleting rear o2 sensors, ERG & Air so it will be good to know what crap to take off. I have a "Borla Exhaust" (not true dual exhaust, sounds good), Texas Speed Y Pipe w/bullet cats will go in. Car came w/ K&N cold air intake & shock tower brace from BMR. I have a throttle body spacer to go in, a Lunati cam will go in (still finding out what other trimmings are needed for this {lifters, springs ect.})
My intake manifold is Plastic???, probably get a better one (aluminium) for more air. Other than larger injectors, hotter coils i think thats it for the engine unless other wise opting for a "procharger" super charger after seeing RWHP on the dyno. Beacause of the t-tops subframe connectors should be used to prevent wrinkling the uni-body underneath w/supercharging (i have T-TOP's, ECM will also have to be done. And last some suspension & gear ratio work is` all i can think of w/o gold-plating the car itself (LOL). sorry i wrote a book as usual, the pic's would be nice.
thks.
brian.
04-16-2011, 12:38 PM
#87
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: La Porte, TX
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Guys,
I've wanted to remove the AIR system in my car for quite a while, so I decided to tackle the job this weekend. I had read this article in preparation for the job. It explains how to remove all the major components, but doesn't go into details about what to do with vaccum lines and other small parts. I took pictures of the process, so whenever you try this, you won't be as lost as I was. Without further delay, here they are:
I should add that I was having some serious backfires through the exhaust. I suspected the AIR system may have something to do with it, but couldn't confirm. Upon removal, I found out one of the check valves was not sealing at all. They are supposed to be a one-way valve, but the passenger's side was not sealing either way. This in turn allowed fresh air to enter the manifold causing shotgun-like backfires. This problem was also tricking the O2 sensor on that bank into believing the engine was running lean, therefore advising the PCM to dump more fuel, which showed up in my last oil analysis.....it was 1.8%.....normal is 0.5% or less. My gas mileage has also been somewhat crappy lately, so this fix should definitely restore mileage back to normal.
If you are having backfires and seem to be running very rich for no apparent reason, check your check valves....they could be bad.
Hope this is of help to someone.
Rick
I've wanted to remove the AIR system in my car for quite a while, so I decided to tackle the job this weekend. I had read this article in preparation for the job. It explains how to remove all the major components, but doesn't go into details about what to do with vaccum lines and other small parts. I took pictures of the process, so whenever you try this, you won't be as lost as I was. Without further delay, here they are:
I should add that I was having some serious backfires through the exhaust. I suspected the AIR system may have something to do with it, but couldn't confirm. Upon removal, I found out one of the check valves was not sealing at all. They are supposed to be a one-way valve, but the passenger's side was not sealing either way. This in turn allowed fresh air to enter the manifold causing shotgun-like backfires. This problem was also tricking the O2 sensor on that bank into believing the engine was running lean, therefore advising the PCM to dump more fuel, which showed up in my last oil analysis.....it was 1.8%.....normal is 0.5% or less. My gas mileage has also been somewhat crappy lately, so this fix should definitely restore mileage back to normal.
If you are having backfires and seem to be running very rich for no apparent reason, check your check valves....they could be bad.
Hope this is of help to someone.
Rick
05-08-2011, 12:59 PM
#88
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Well, my car runs better now(no backfiring and smooth acceleration), but my gas mileage still sucks and it still smells pretty rich. I'm not sure why now.. Initially (right after !air) it didn't smell as rich, but now it smells just as bad as before. Still getting about 13/14mpg city and 20/21 hwy... car is an m6 BTW. (45k mile on a spec 2+)
I have high flow cats with about 50k miles on them, and crappy bosch 13111 o2s with about 25k miles on them. The car was dyno tuned at GForce, A/F was at about 13.0..
Plugs look fine, fuel/air filter are fine, MAF is clean,...
Any ideas?
I have high flow cats with about 50k miles on them, and crappy bosch 13111 o2s with about 25k miles on them. The car was dyno tuned at GForce, A/F was at about 13.0..
Plugs look fine, fuel/air filter are fine, MAF is clean,...
Any ideas?
04-07-2014, 01:27 AM
#92
TECH Junkie
I'm not able to view the photos...why?
07-31-2023, 04:34 PM
#94
Guys,
I've wanted to remove the AIR system in my car for quite a while, so I decided to tackle the job this weekend. I had read this article in preparation for the job. It explains how to remove all the major components, but doesn't go into details about what to do with vaccum lines and other small parts. I took pictures of the process, so whenever you try this, you won't be as lost as I was. Without further delay, here they are:
I should add that I was having some serious backfires through the exhaust. I suspected the AIR system may have something to do with it, but couldn't confirm. Upon removal, I found out one of the check valves was not sealing at all. They are supposed to be a one-way valve, but the passenger's side was not sealing either way. This in turn allowed fresh air to enter the manifold causing shotgun-like backfires. This problem was also tricking the O2 sensor on that bank into believing the engine was running lean, therefore advising the PCM to dump more fuel, which showed up in my last oil analysis.....it was 1.8%.....normal is 0.5% or less. My gas mileage has also been somewhat crappy lately, so this fix should definitely restore mileage back to normal.
If you are having backfires and seem to be running very rich for no apparent reason, check your check valves....they could be bad.
Hope this is of help to someone.
Rick
I've wanted to remove the AIR system in my car for quite a while, so I decided to tackle the job this weekend. I had read this article in preparation for the job. It explains how to remove all the major components, but doesn't go into details about what to do with vaccum lines and other small parts. I took pictures of the process, so whenever you try this, you won't be as lost as I was. Without further delay, here they are:
I should add that I was having some serious backfires through the exhaust. I suspected the AIR system may have something to do with it, but couldn't confirm. Upon removal, I found out one of the check valves was not sealing at all. They are supposed to be a one-way valve, but the passenger's side was not sealing either way. This in turn allowed fresh air to enter the manifold causing shotgun-like backfires. This problem was also tricking the O2 sensor on that bank into believing the engine was running lean, therefore advising the PCM to dump more fuel, which showed up in my last oil analysis.....it was 1.8%.....normal is 0.5% or less. My gas mileage has also been somewhat crappy lately, so this fix should definitely restore mileage back to normal.
If you are having backfires and seem to be running very rich for no apparent reason, check your check valves....they could be bad.
Hope this is of help to someone.
Rick
07-31-2023, 04:39 PM
#95
TECH Senior Member
You're asking about a post from EIGHTEEN YEARS AGO???
