Hey guys, I want to build a cold air induction style of intake similar to the LT1 cars. I want to make a tight 90* bend at the TB and have some polished tubing run across to the ABS block and then bend down and go into the cavity were the AIR pump is.

Kind of like this, but have the tubing extend further down.


Has anyone done this?
What diameter tubing would I need so that I don't choke the engine?

If the 90* bend isn't a good idea, I could go another route.



This is a cool look as well. I basically want something different than the lids I see all the time.

If anybody has any info on how it can be done, please let me know.

 

I've been thinking about something simliar and not just for an Fbody. My approach would be to use silicon tubing as its very durable and pliable. It also has very good heat transfer properties so won't heat up like a metal duct. You can also buy it in many sizes with bends and angles so it will be very easy to get the shape you need.

Next is the filter. Basically its pretty hard to beat a stock paper one, a well designed panel filter mounted infront of the rad with a cool air duct would work well. If you want more of a striking look then you'll be wanting a cone filter.

From my research foam filters may flow well but they don't filter very well. I'd probably stay away from them. The weave cotton (K&N/Green and others) are alright, but WAY to expensive and need cleaning which can cause problems, they also don't filter anywhere near as good as the paper type.

The only suitable substitute I've seen is the synthetic weave from Donaldson, this is much better then the cotton and does not require the oil in order to work. I still think the paper is ultimatley better at filtration but the Donaldson Blackwing for the C5 is a very well engineered peice of kit with better flow capacities than stock and good enough (for automobile use) filtering. Donaldson make filters for aero engines and works trucks/diggers and such so they have to handle some serious dirt.

If you used a simple short as possible silcon duct and mount the Blackwing infont of the rad maybe in a sealed box so as it only draws outside air it would be one hell of a filter setup that would look good and work about as good as you could get.

 

I have to have polished or chrome tubing. Anything less wouldn't be worth the trouble. This is just for looks. You wouldn't see the filter in either of my 2 choices, but I would probably use a $30 K&N cone filter.

 

power wise, the reg lid and CAI is the cheapest route, there used to be a thread on here (cant find it now) of a guy who didnt something like that, it was just a bellows to a Y tube and 2 cone filters right over the radiator, or i just found this https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=cold+air

 

That's like the ugliest thing I've ever seen. The filters look nice, but the tubing up top=

 

Don't use metal. It will heat soak and you'll heat the air as it passes through the tube-plastic is better. Honestly, the aftermarket lid with the free ram air is the best out there. Putting a bend in the tubing on a n/a motor will hurt more than help.

 

Unless you can chrome plastic, I'll be using metal.

Now that I've seen this other design, I'm starting to like it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/338821-custom-ls1-intake-polished-radiator-shroud.html

I could probably make The Y for the filters and the slight bend to the MAF out of metal and have it chromed. Then use colored silicone hose for the connectors. The BMR polished rad shroud is a sweet looking piece.

If I could find a different colored oil for the filters, that would be sweet as well.

 

thats the link i was looking for

 

OK, here's my version based on Tranzaman00 setup crossed with the Volant setup. Fab up the Y of steel (probably use muffler pipe) grind down the welds and have it chromed. I picked up a K&N catalog and there are lots of nice filters. The ones in the pics are about $35ea. Accel sells a blue filter oil for about $6. There are a few different places that sell high quality silicone 45* reducers for the MAF to TB joint as well as for the MAF to Y piece in different colors. BMR makes the polished radiator shroud for $95. If I could find a sheetmetal bender I could probably make my own and have the front extend forward and wrap around the lip of the radiator core support. (I'm not able to photoshop that, please use your imagination) All in all it should be badass. What do you think?

 

Here's an updated picture:


I'm finalizing the details on how to make it. It's going to be a thing of beauty when I'm done.