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Installing Long-Tubes?

Old Oct 1, 2005 | 12:18 AM
  #1  
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Default Installing Long-Tubes?

Hey im sure a lot of u guys out there put a pair of pacesetter long tubes on ur car, if u did about how long am i looking at to install them? and does anything need to be taken out, disconnected, or altered? lemme no

o and by the way...are whats the difference between clamps and welding besides durability?
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 06:47 AM
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It depends on if your using a lift or not. They go in extremely easy compared to other LT's. Just do a search for pacesetter install. It shouldn't take more than 3 hours.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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I used band clamps on the collectors, and 1 where the 2 piece ORY connects together. Seems to allow a little more "adjustability" to help keep the ORY from banging, IMO.
As was said, use the search. There's a lot of posts on pacesetters, although you might want to concentrate on the posts for the last coupla' months as I believe they changed the style some. I didn't remove anything extra except the pass side heat shield above the collector. Without access to a lift, get a decent jack to raise the front end up, and some decent jack stands. A $20 floor jack ain't gonna cut it. Good luck.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 11:29 AM
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Don't weld. I'm glad I didn't.

If I had, my recent heads/cam install would've been a bit more difficult.

Band clamps..... Mine leaked, until I put a GOOD muffler tape under the band clamps, then sealed them down.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 11:43 AM
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It shouldn't take more than 3 hours.

HAHAHAHA a 3 day endevor for me, but than again this is the first thing I've ever done to a car other than change a battery and put on a FTRA.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 02:55 PM
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the header install was easy. I didn't have to take the coil packs off either. I had the front on ramps and jack stands on the rear. I also used a floor jack to take the front of the car up alittle bit to get the headers in place. The headers are the easy part. I got a tsp catted y pipe and that was more of a pita than the headers. Good luck with the install
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 06:08 AM
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It's not too bad of an install. Of course I installed mine with heads removed, as I was installing new ones. But some of my friends have just loosened motor mounts and jacked the engine up a wee bit and headers slide in nicely.
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 06:07 PM
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Get a girl or someone with small hands to help you out, be patient and the pacesetters will slide right up into place. I also use band clamps and everything is in great working condition.I didnt have to remove anything as well, so good luck, let us know how it goes.
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 06:55 PM
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My Pacesetters went in like butter. I pulled the off the coil packs (both sides) and the steering shaft. Not to hard but it would have been easier if I would have had someone holding them in place from the top...

Deffinately go with band clamps...

Kevin
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 07:24 PM
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i put them on my 5.3l truck and it was basically the same process...but use the 3" wide stainless bandclamps like stated above they sell them at napa..and get some of that copper sensor safe rtv and put them in the colector b4 sliding the ypipe on it will ensure a good seal and get some new factory manifold gaskets form your local dealer...and if you can do it on a lift..it will cut the install time in half plus your neck wont hurt the next day from holding it up...just my .02
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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it's fuuny you ask this because i just finished mine today, and like yourself i did my research before the work! smart man, first i HIGHLY recommend a lift, and as for pacestter from what i know is that they used to have fitment problems with the k member and the egr flanges. but i belive they have fixed the k member problem and i still had a slight problem with the egr (nothing that a hammer couldn't fix). when i removed the stock headers i also removed the pasenger side coil pack for an easier reach. and as for the install, by looking you would think that the passenger side would be the harder one but it went right in no problem. the driver side was the problem, it just didn't what to go in, so i removed a heat sheild that was just above the motor mount and another heat sheild for the clutch line. then i removed the first 3 spark plugs on the driver side, as i slid it up in there i noticed that it was still hitting on a small pieace of the block so i just gave it one good love tap and that was it!! i now have pacesetter headers, tsp y pipe (no cats), and magnaflow exhuast! cant wait for the dyno numbers!!
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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You are gonna have to grind the K member a little. On the driver side I already heard of 3 cars that had to do it. So go and buy some black spray paint to touch it up.
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 11:29 AM
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yeah the passenger side is easier although it requires 2 people, since it fits in so easy it will fall out if nobody is supporting it while you try to manuever the gasket and bolts.
i didnt have to do any grinding, the drivers side is also easy, but one thing i noticed, where alot of people grind or cut the block casting tab on the drivers side, if you push a little hard, the firewall will flex 2mm and the header will slide right up, no modifications necessary. Also i didnt jack the back of the car, just the front, and you need the car higher for the passengers side than the drivers side just because of the shape of each header. i also didnt remove coilpacks or touch the steering linkage. dipstick has to come out.
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 05:41 PM
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good catch on the the steering and the dip stick i had forgot to mention that. and i must say i love your car, it looks mean!
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 05:47 PM
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Yeah, I forgot the dipstick too. Didn't take steering shaft loose, though, and just slid the coil packs outta the way.
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by monkey11
good catch on the the steering and the dip stick i had forgot to mention that. and i must say i love your car, it looks mean!
thanks, its about to look meaner when my black billet grille gets here.
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