slp vs. asp underdrive pulley need some help
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slp vs. asp underdrive pulley need some help
I found an asp pulley used for pretty cheap....in fact 100 cheaper than usual but its used.....what is the difference between it and the slp? is the slp really worth it because of the larger walls? do people with the asp really have that many problems with it throwing belts? also what size belts do i need? for the new bolt do i just go to the chevrolet dealership for a new one?
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I had problems with my old ASP. Needed to buy the Larry Pulley to keep the belt from coming off.
No problems with the SLP except you will need to buy a longer crank bolt to get it started.
Both come with the belt#'s you will need to buy and I think you can order them with a new crank bolt. The ASP and SLP that I bought came with new crank bolts but I can't remember if I had to ask for it or not.
Hope this helps
No problems with the SLP except you will need to buy a longer crank bolt to get it started.
Both come with the belt#'s you will need to buy and I think you can order them with a new crank bolt. The ASP and SLP that I bought came with new crank bolts but I can't remember if I had to ask for it or not.
Hope this helps
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#8
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It seems like alot of people have bad things to say about the slp pulley, not realizing that the pulley they sell now is totally different from their old one. Here is what the slp site has to say about the powerbond/slp pulley:
-Extra-tall belt-retention "walls"--no more thrown belts!
-No aftermarket tensioner required
-100% steel construction
-Lighter than the stock balancer
-Integral timing marks and puller-mounting threads
-Keyed for high-rpm or supercharged applications
-Does not cause false knock retard or erratic power-curve dips
-Includes a new balancer bolt
-Extra-tall belt-retention "walls"--no more thrown belts!
-No aftermarket tensioner required
-100% steel construction
-Lighter than the stock balancer
-Integral timing marks and puller-mounting threads
-Keyed for high-rpm or supercharged applications
-Does not cause false knock retard or erratic power-curve dips
-Includes a new balancer bolt
#12
My ASP pulley works great. We're talking about a pulley used to drive accessories here. What's the big deal? If your pulley throws a belt, get a smaller belt or a stronger tensioner. Why is it always the pulley @ fault? Thrown belts could have been alignment related...etc.. From what I've seen, the latest pullies from either company are well designed. The lightweight smaller diameter ASP is great for reducing the amount of energy required to accelerate it. If there is an inexpensive pulley available of the current design, buy it, install it properly, & enjoy the ride.
#13
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Thrown belts can be a royal pain. I've heard of alot of the people with the ASP's throwing belts. The nice thing about the SLP is that won't be a problem. IMHO, it's more important to get a stong pulley that won't wobble or throw belts. A wobble on the end of your crank can't be good for your bearings, and aluminum is more likely to not hold a true shape over time. 99.99999% of the gains in a pulley swap are from the size, not the weight. The weight difference between the aluminum asp, and the slp isn't very much. Both produce the same gains on a dyno, so I'd say strength is a more valuable quality.