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60$ for a 160 thermostat!!!!

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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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Default 60$ for a 160 thermostat!!!!

ARE YOU KIDDING ME

I was gonna pick up a thermostat for my t/a but when i began to look around everyone was asking 60$ for the damn things.... what kind of **** is that... i just picked up a thermostat for my winter car for litterally 8$ at VIP

how about everyone stops ripping off us f-body guys

Which brings me to my next point. I should just buy a mustang and mod the crap out of it. You can buy parts for those damn things at a dime a dozen. blah!
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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i believe they are 60 because they include the housing
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:06 PM
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Don't bother. When you get a chance (basic or dyno tune, or buy your own software) lower the fan activation temps to match the stock thermo. Or install a fan activation switch.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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i have a water temp. gauge since the factory one doesnt work, and im thinking about getting the slp manual fan switch, would it still be good to get a 180 degree thermostat or no? i really dont want to pay that much money for a thermostat, unless it really help.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:31 PM
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I'd stick to the fan switch and/or a reprogramming of the computer.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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They're so much because the housing is part of it.

Just go to autozone, I picked up a 160 hypertech there for 30 bucks. Still a lot, but better than 60.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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I have seen a mod in the past to shim the center of the stat which will change the opening point. Dont recall the full details, someone else might be able to chime in.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 06:12 PM
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New Stang stuff isnt that much cheaper. The T stat on the LS1 also includes the housing.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 618HAWK
I have seen a mod in the past to shim the center of the stat which will change the opening point. Dont recall the full details, someone else might be able to chime in.
Correct. The T-stat mod is one of the first free mods done for the LS1. You have to disassemble the housing, put the small shim in and reassemble. I did that and it worked perfect on my 98 t-stat. I bought a new t-stat and it was slightly different than the 98 version.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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Note that later models' thermostat doesn't seem to be
the same; I tried that "free mod" and ended up with a
lower, but hardly at all controlled coolant temp.

Save your dough, just get the fans set to give the stock
thermostat the authority it needs, and tune for 194F
unless you are making monstrous power / heat.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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I bought mine from summit and it was about 40, my car ran at about 179 to 182, when I installed the 160 my temps dropped to 162 to 169, as for the factory water temp gauge POS, I have a gauge on my A-pillar. To me it was worth the money.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by chewy99ws6
I bought mine from summit and it was about 40, my car ran at about 179 to 182, when I installed the 160 my temps dropped to 162 to 169, as for the factory water temp gauge POS, I have a gauge on my A-pillar. To me it was worth the money.

You don't want your LS1 to run at 162-169*.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
You don't want your LS1 to run at 162-169*.

His thermostat may say 162-169 but realistically hes prolly running around 180
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:39 PM
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when i bought my car recently.. i noticed my gauge reads about 170* all the time.. i looked and saw an aftermarket thermo housing, so im assuming some one put in a 160* thermo..

why dont you want the car to be in the 160's?? just wanted to know
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
You don't want your LS1 to run at 162-169*.
That's pretty lean.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by KiLLJ0Y92Z28
when i bought my car recently.. i noticed my gauge reads about 170* all the time.. i looked and saw an aftermarket thermo housing, so im assuming some one put in a 160* thermo..

why dont you want the car to be in the 160's?? just wanted to know
Wish I could find the numerous other threads on this...

Lubrication is one reason...power is another...you make more power (efficiency) with a hotter head, not colder. Heat = energy.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Wish I could find the numerous other threads on this...

Lubrication is one reason...power is another...you make more power (efficiency) with a hotter head, not colder. Heat = energy.
My car went 2 tenths faster consistantly after I replaced my thermostat with a 160º. The original thermostat wasn't opening all the way when I replaced it though. It wouldn't overheat, just ran a little bit hotter than usual.

But whatever works for you, if there wasn't some benefit to running the stock one over a 160º, it woudln't be argued so much.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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Back to back dyno runs and track passes have proven the LS1 gains power when it gets hot...

It's simple. Cold Air + Hot Chambers = Power.

Just lower your fan settings.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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$60 for a thermostat does sound crazy.....but then again isn't $90-$100 crazy for a molded piece of plastic? Yep but we all buy aftermarket lids don't we?
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Muerte_X
My car went 2 tenths faster consistantly after I replaced my thermostat with a 160º. The original thermostat wasn't opening all the way when I replaced it though. It wouldn't overheat, just ran a little bit hotter than usual.

But whatever works for you, if there wasn't some benefit to running the stock one over a 160º, it woudln't be argued so much.

same here, best mod i did. Before i got the 160 stat, the car would run .1 tenth slower every run. i really pissed me off, got the 160stat and the car ran consistent
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