This is how I fixed my Y pipe banging... *pics*
This is how I fixed my Y pipe banging... *pics* It seems to be one of the most commonly asked questions around here. I thought I did my homework when I ordered my Stainless Works Headers, I thought the 2.5" Y pipe would minimize or eliminate Y pipe banging problems, but they didn't. Anyhow...this was the first "fix"
That lasted about a month, and then all that chaved through. It was hood insulation from a old Blazer and heater hose
After a few more attempts, I bought the mufflex hanger. First attempt looked like this:
This didn't work too well for two reasons. The clamp is suppsed to go where in actuallity the bung for the rear O2 is located, so they we put it on there, it didn't do much good. Aside from that, no matter how much we tightned the clamp, it didn't take long before it slid to the side which is the position you see it in on that picture. In that position the Y pipe not only hit the floorboard still, it also burned the one rubber.
We cut the hanger and rewelded it and also used a little force to bend the Y pipe just enough to gain more clearance. So this is the final result:
You can see where the Y hit the floorboard before and how much clearance there is now.
So for all you still fighting with this situation...there is hope...and it was done without resorting to go with poly motor and tranny mounts.
Manny
That lasted about a month, and then all that chaved through. It was hood insulation from a old Blazer and heater hose
After a few more attempts, I bought the mufflex hanger. First attempt looked like this:
This didn't work too well for two reasons. The clamp is suppsed to go where in actuallity the bung for the rear O2 is located, so they we put it on there, it didn't do much good. Aside from that, no matter how much we tightned the clamp, it didn't take long before it slid to the side which is the position you see it in on that picture. In that position the Y pipe not only hit the floorboard still, it also burned the one rubber.
We cut the hanger and rewelded it and also used a little force to bend the Y pipe just enough to gain more clearance. So this is the final result:
You can see where the Y hit the floorboard before and how much clearance there is now.
So for all you still fighting with this situation...there is hope...and it was done without resorting to go with poly motor and tranny mounts.
Manny
Last edited by MannyZ28; Mar 5, 2006 at 03:09 PM.
To be honest I would've of went with the mounts.I'm kinda biased because I already have them.
I said it before,for around $50 and a day working on your car you wouldnt have the y-pipe and under of your car looking all beat up and rigged looking.Also,all the time spent trying to make the solutions you were trying to do work.
I think resorting to poly motor/tranny mounts is the best way.You did all this work and still have crap stock motor/tranny mounts.I dont mean to come off rude,but you act like resorting to the mounts is a waste.If you went went to mounts you'd see what I'm talking about.The y-pipe banging is just one of the added bonuses of the mounts.On top of how much better they make your car feel.
Glad you got it not to bang though!
I said it before,for around $50 and a day working on your car you wouldnt have the y-pipe and under of your car looking all beat up and rigged looking.Also,all the time spent trying to make the solutions you were trying to do work.
I think resorting to poly motor/tranny mounts is the best way.You did all this work and still have crap stock motor/tranny mounts.I dont mean to come off rude,but you act like resorting to the mounts is a waste.If you went went to mounts you'd see what I'm talking about.The y-pipe banging is just one of the added bonuses of the mounts.On top of how much better they make your car feel.
Glad you got it not to bang though!
Mounts would not have worked for me. Stainless Works headers tug up very high compared to most other headers. When the driver side header was in place, and I stuck the cat on....I knew I was in trouble. I had to actually bend the cat down a bit just to get the next piece of the Y pipe on. Motor mounts would have done absolutely nothing for me.
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Mounts would not have worked for me. Stainless Works headers tug up very high compared to most other headers. When the driver side header was in place, and I stuck the cat on....I knew I was in trouble. I had to actually bend the cat down a bit just to get the next piece of the Y pipe on. Motor mounts would have done absolutely nothing for me.
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Do poly motor mounts result in more vibration in the car? I know tranny mounts do, how about the motor mounts?
Trending Topics
A Bingo machine! LOL.
I heard it's a pain in the *** job....but maybe one of these days I'll do it when my buddy who did the cam install is in town again and needs extra money
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
I used the mufflex bump stop hanger, it has stopped most of the banging but when the engine is coming down from higher revs ~2500 and above it bangs a bit and rattles everything like the world is coming to an end.
I think maybe my engine moves around more than it should, the car has almost 90k miles on it so I wouldnt be surprised if the motor mounts are totally shot. I am just going to bite the bullet and get the poly motor mounts.
I think maybe my engine moves around more than it should, the car has almost 90k miles on it so I wouldnt be surprised if the motor mounts are totally shot. I am just going to bite the bullet and get the poly motor mounts.
Originally Posted by Luna
I used the mufflex bump stop hanger, it has stopped most of the banging but when the engine is coming down from higher revs ~2500 and above it bangs a bit and rattles everything like the world is coming to an end.
I think maybe my engine moves around more than it should, the car has almost 90k miles on it so I wouldnt be surprised if the motor mounts are totally shot. I am just going to bite the bullet and get the poly motor mounts.
I think maybe my engine moves around more than it should, the car has almost 90k miles on it so I wouldnt be surprised if the motor mounts are totally shot. I am just going to bite the bullet and get the poly motor mounts.
Compared to one of the pictures above, how much clearance do you have between the floorboard and the Y pipe?
probably about half as much as those pictures... I would say I have about a quarter to a half inch, but I dont think there is any more clearance to be had without bending the pipe or bashing the floorboard, neither of which I particularly want to do
I have enough clearance i can barely slide my pinky between the y and floor. It would slap the hell outta the floor. I did prothane motor mounts and no more banging. No offence but for $50 and all the time you spent, you couldve saved yourself alot of time and not have some rigged up lookin **** under your car. Do the motor mounts and you'll love it. If not, keep the same ****, just tryin to help you out.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
For the Stainless works headers, mounts def wont fix the problem , i can't even slide my pinky bewteen the y and the floor. Tried the bump stop but it just slides around the pipe after one good WOT shot. So i just put some header wrap between the pipe and floor to mellow the vibration. I guess i'll have to weld the bump stop to the pipe so i doesn't slide.
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Abilene, TX
My tranny mount did not add any vibration to my car at all, i have a custom y-pipe that i cannot even put my pinky in between the y and floorboard and it still banged like hell after the tranny mount went in.......i put the Prothane motor mounts in and it has never even acted like it wanted to slap the floor board and my motor is rock solid even with my cam......they even took a lot of the plastic/t-top vibration out, my center console doesn't creak or anything anymore.
Would doing polyurethane motor mounts make subframe connectors more necessary? It seems that more of the movement of the engine is being absorbed into the motor mounts and the body
Just a thought, I don't know if it makes any sense or not...
Just a thought, I don't know if it makes any sense or not...
Launching!
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: Abilene, TX
I don't know, that's a pretty good question because it makes sense to me, that more of the engine movement being absorbed into the frame would possibly increase the "torque ripples" in your quarter panels at the very least.
Originally Posted by BrianC98Z28
I have enough clearance i can barely slide my pinky between the y and floor. It would slap the hell outta the floor. I did prothane motor mounts and no more banging. No offence but for $50 and all the time you spent, you couldve saved yourself alot of time and not have some rigged up lookin **** under your car. Do the motor mounts and you'll love it. If not, keep the same ****, just tryin to help you out.
Gee, thanks for the compliment.
Here I am just trying to help people that don't want to do motor mounts or have headers like mine that just WILL NOT BENEFIT ENOUGH from motor mounts to solve the Y pipe banging problem, and you are telling me to not be offended by my "rigged up looking ****". WTF bro!? I don't know if you read my response further up correctly, but when the driver side header was in, I had to force the next piece of the Y into the header, that's how tight it was on the floorboard. Motor mounts won't do jack for that.
And I also never said that I just don't want to do motor mounts, it was just plain *** obvious to me that they won't do jack for me.
Damn man....almost looks like you're trying to make me out to be the bad man here telling people how to **** engineer their Y pipe fixes, I just posted what I thought was a informative post for others.
Originally Posted by MannyZ28
Gee, thanks for the compliment.
Here I am just trying to help people that don't want to do motor mounts or have headers like mine that just WILL NOT BENEFIT ENOUGH from motor mounts to solve the Y pipe banging problem, and you are telling me to not be offended by my "rigged up looking ****". WTF bro!? I don't know if you read my response further up correctly, but when the driver side header was in, I had to force the next piece of the Y into the header, that's how tight it was on the floorboard. Motor mounts won't do jack for that.
And I also never said that I just don't want to do motor mounts, it was just plain *** obvious to me that they won't do jack for me.
Damn man....almost looks like you're trying to make me out to be the bad man here telling people how to **** engineer their Y pipe fixes, I just posted what I thought was a informative post for others.
Here I am just trying to help people that don't want to do motor mounts or have headers like mine that just WILL NOT BENEFIT ENOUGH from motor mounts to solve the Y pipe banging problem, and you are telling me to not be offended by my "rigged up looking ****". WTF bro!? I don't know if you read my response further up correctly, but when the driver side header was in, I had to force the next piece of the Y into the header, that's how tight it was on the floorboard. Motor mounts won't do jack for that.
And I also never said that I just don't want to do motor mounts, it was just plain *** obvious to me that they won't do jack for me.
Damn man....almost looks like you're trying to make me out to be the bad man here telling people how to **** engineer their Y pipe fixes, I just posted what I thought was a informative post for others.
Dont be discouraged,now people have another alternative,with pics even,on how to cure the banging.
Anyway glad you got your "rigged up looking ****" not to bang!
Yeah man, you should have went with the poly motor mounts to preserve your car's beauty...that looks horrible underneath.
How are you gonna go out in public with your car looking like that, considering all the people that climb underneath to look at how pretty your undercarriage is.
How are you gonna go out in public with your car looking like that, considering all the people that climb underneath to look at how pretty your undercarriage is.
Thanks for the support guys, I rarely lose my temper, but I couldn't take this one bend over and unlubed in the *** 
And yeah...I do pull a trailer behind my car with all the mirrors in it that I spread under the car wherever I park, so people can admire the underside of my rigged up ****.
And yeah...I do pull a trailer behind my car with all the mirrors in it that I spread under the car wherever I park, so people can admire the underside of my rigged up ****.