Hooker Y won't clear....
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,413
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From: PURDUE
Hooker Y won't clear.... Ok, I installed my Hooker LTs and my Hooker jethot Ypipe. Anyone else have a problem with it NOT clearing that brace? Sorry, I don't know exactley what its called, but its a side load brace (I think) and has indentations for the torque arm and stock ypipe. Maybe i'm just missing something?
Launching!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Owensboro KY
Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... Leave it off, you dont need it.
Find someway to use it that would be more useful for that waste of metal. Maybe try to form it into an aluminum drink can with your rubber mallet or something <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Find someway to use it that would be more useful for that waste of metal. Maybe try to form it into an aluminum drink can with your rubber mallet or something <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... The bolts for the brace are pretty short and
I found I could only get about 1/4" of washers
in there, and still get full thread engagement.
So you might want to go find some longer bolts.
Other thing is, the Y-pipe to I-pipe joint can
give you a lot of bend; floor jack it up to where you have maybe 1" clearance to the driveshaft (or
thereabouts). Then tighten the band clamp in that
position. Do this with the front Y-pipe flange bolts slightly loose, shims between the Y and any
close spots on the frame and gas tank heat shield,
and tighten everything with all this setup in
place, and you should get away with no banging.
I found I could only get about 1/4" of washers
in there, and still get full thread engagement.
So you might want to go find some longer bolts.
Other thing is, the Y-pipe to I-pipe joint can
give you a lot of bend; floor jack it up to where you have maybe 1" clearance to the driveshaft (or
thereabouts). Then tighten the band clamp in that
position. Do this with the front Y-pipe flange bolts slightly loose, shims between the Y and any
close spots on the frame and gas tank heat shield,
and tighten everything with all this setup in
place, and you should get away with no banging.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... I bet there is a driveshalft loop setup that would bolt right in and replace that member. If done right you could have a cross-member that clears the pipe and a proper driveshaft to boot.
Anyone know of such a product?
Anyone know of such a product?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 7
From: Mi./Al.
Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jimmyblue:
<strong>The bolts for the brace are pretty short and
I found I could only get about 1/4" of washers
in there, and still get full thread engagement.
So you might want to go find some longer bolts.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I installed a SLP y-pipe and driveshaft loop on a friends SS and got the longer metric bolts from AutoZone, I think they where 10mm but take one along to make sure.
<strong>The bolts for the brace are pretty short and
I found I could only get about 1/4" of washers
in there, and still get full thread engagement.
So you might want to go find some longer bolts.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I installed a SLP y-pipe and driveshaft loop on a friends SS and got the longer metric bolts from AutoZone, I think they where 10mm but take one along to make sure.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Eastern, MD
Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... My SLP driveshaft loop replaced that brace, and has a lot more clearance. I have the 2.5" MAC ORP, and no problems. There appears to be plenty of room for a 3"pipe. Only bad part is the SLP loop costs around $99, that's alot of money for a loop.
Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Roberto:
<strong>I bet there is a driveshalft loop setup that would bolt right in and replace that member. If done right you could have a cross-member that clears the pipe and a proper driveshaft to boot.
Anyone know of such a product?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Got a BMR drive shaft loop. Had to elongate the holes where the loop mounts to the brace and put 2 washers between the brace and body to clear the oryp for my MACS. No big deal took about 1 hour. The factory calls that piece a tunnel brace. Loop replaces it.
Bruce
<strong>I bet there is a driveshalft loop setup that would bolt right in and replace that member. If done right you could have a cross-member that clears the pipe and a proper driveshaft to boot.
Anyone know of such a product?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Got a BMR drive shaft loop. Had to elongate the holes where the loop mounts to the brace and put 2 washers between the brace and body to clear the oryp for my MACS. No big deal took about 1 hour. The factory calls that piece a tunnel brace. Loop replaces it.
Bruce
Teching In
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Western N.Y.
Re: Hooker Y won't clear.... </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Roberto:
<strong>I bet there is a driveshalft loop setup that would bolt right in and replace that member. If done right you could have a cross-member that clears the pipe and a proper driveshaft to boot.
Anyone know of such a product?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">BMR makes it, and it should fit with a minimal of fuss <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
<strong>I bet there is a driveshalft loop setup that would bolt right in and replace that member. If done right you could have a cross-member that clears the pipe and a proper driveshaft to boot.
Anyone know of such a product?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">BMR makes it, and it should fit with a minimal of fuss <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
