ONEBADASSWS6

Not having EGR has little to no effect on fuel economy. Otherwise all 01-02 F-Bodies would have lower fuel economy ratings than 98-00 models, and I've never heard of any real differences. Not only that, but once the motor is warmed up, the last thing you want is hot exhaust air coming into the intake manifold. You want a cold air charge, cooler air is more dense than warmer air. Hence cold air induction setups, intercoolers, ect. A denser air charge will make more power and be more efficient than a warmer air charge.

I think you are confusing intake air temps with engine temps. They are not the same thing. You want the engine to be warm (180-210 degrees) and the air charge to be cool, that gives you the best efficiency and power.

It will only hurt your mileage during the time the car is warming up, since it will take more time to get from 160 degrees to operating temp with coolant flowing through the engine. However, once the car is warmed up, it has no effect on anything, because the engine temps are controlled by the cooling fans, not the thermostat.

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

This is true. But if I recall, aluminum is also more susceptible to heat damage: IE warping, than iron. I will gladly sacrifice 1-2 MPG know that I will have a little more time/temp difference should I start to run hot.

Flubyux2

Removing the egr from a car originally equipped, and not retuning it, usually hurts the fuel economy. The exhaust is an inert gas that dilute the fresh air charge. Since there's supposed to be less fresh air, the ecu uses less fuel. Having the exhaust recirc with the fresh charge doesn't affect the afr, the stoich is achieved. But if you eliminate the inert gas, it changes the mixture. More fresh air is drawn in in the absence of the exhaust. This causes a lean condition and is picked up by the front o2's. The ecu sees this on the long term o2 trims and then compensates by adjusting the fuel trims. This adds more fuel... And then you mpg would suffer at this point.

A car designed to run Without egr systems uses different cam timing events to utilize overlap to create exhaust reversion which will dilute the incoming air charge similar to how egr would when being routed through the intake.

I want to delete these systems but I really hesitant because I take road trips and getting less than 25mpg on the hwy is unacceptable. So I'm thinking I won't be able to delete the egr.

As far as the Air system, do you guys with catless exhausts notice rich, dirty or raw fuel smells on cold starts? I've built emissions-free cars all my life but I'm honestly gettin tired of smelling cars that smell like my law mower. The fact that most gas stations down here are using fuel refined from sour crude makes it that much worse: sour exhaust on a catless car that runs rich will get old quickly for me.

7beast

iTrader: (30)

good info here, my intake already has the block off plate and will be ordering race headers before i drop my motor in

trey0153

iTrader: (3)

I know this is old but just as an update u can get an grommet that is put in holes for electrical panels to close hole and looks way better then the freeze plug

T2TA

Just finished this today. I know this and several other threads are a bit dated - but it's pretty simple. .... For anyone still interested ... Lol

Just read through this thread and these (with links in posts). https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-removal.html and. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html

Pump removal is easy. People just seem to get confused on the solenoid and air valve (saucer looking thing). Last couple of links have decent explanations and faqs.

And the line to cap is the one coming from the back of the intake manifold into the solenoid. The other lines run the "vacuum" from the solenoid to the valve. So all that matters, once all is removed, is capping the vacuum source line.

This helps ... The pic is from SSGunny

1. Mount for bracket
2. Vacuum line elbow
3. Vacuum check valve
4. AIR shutoff valve
5. AIR vacuum solenoid

Rick01SS

You cap the line at the back of the intake and everything else is removed?

Do you pull all of it off the back of the intake and install a freeze plug, or is that for !EGR? Or just cap the line?

Thanks!