AIR & EGR removal
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
just to let you guys know:
it's perfectly understandable that removing EGR would hurt your gas mileage. EGR recirculates exhaust gases back into your intake. this would, in theory, raise intake air temperatures. you have to understand that our motors like to be hot. i don't know about you guys, but i get 18 mpg in the winter and 22 mpg in the summer. i don't drive any differently. engines just run more efficiently HOT. when you're injecting hotter air into your car, while you'll in theory lose power, the engine will run more efficiently and use less gas.
yes, EGR can and should lower your gas mileage, although not by a whole lot. removing AIR shouldn't hurt your mileage at all unless you cause an exhaust leak in the process.
it's perfectly understandable that removing EGR would hurt your gas mileage. EGR recirculates exhaust gases back into your intake. this would, in theory, raise intake air temperatures. you have to understand that our motors like to be hot. i don't know about you guys, but i get 18 mpg in the winter and 22 mpg in the summer. i don't drive any differently. engines just run more efficiently HOT. when you're injecting hotter air into your car, while you'll in theory lose power, the engine will run more efficiently and use less gas.
yes, EGR can and should lower your gas mileage, although not by a whole lot. removing AIR shouldn't hurt your mileage at all unless you cause an exhaust leak in the process.
I think you are confusing intake air temps with engine temps. They are not the same thing. You want the engine to be warm (180-210 degrees) and the air charge to be cool, that gives you the best efficiency and power.
FWIW, while we're on the subject of gas mileage, swapping to a 160* thermostat will also hurt your gas mileage. our motors were designed to run hot. the cooler we run them, the less efficiently they burn fuel which will result in poorer fuel economy.
my $0.02.
my $0.02.
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
FWIW, while we're on the subject of gas mileage, swapping to a 160* thermostat will also hurt your gas mileage. our motors were designed to run hot. the cooler we run them, the less efficiently they burn fuel which will result in poorer fuel economy.
my $0.02.
my $0.02.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Removing the egr from a car originally equipped, and not retuning it, usually hurts the fuel economy. The exhaust is an inert gas that dilute the fresh air charge. Since there's supposed to be less fresh air, the ecu uses less fuel. Having the exhaust recirc with the fresh charge doesn't affect the afr, the stoich is achieved. But if you eliminate the inert gas, it changes the mixture. More fresh air is drawn in in the absence of the exhaust. This causes a lean condition and is picked up by the front o2's. The ecu sees this on the long term o2 trims and then compensates by adjusting the fuel trims. This adds more fuel... And then you mpg would suffer at this point.
A car designed to run Without egr systems uses different cam timing events to utilize overlap to create exhaust reversion which will dilute the incoming air charge similar to how egr would when being routed through the intake.
I want to delete these systems but I really hesitant because I take road trips and getting less than 25mpg on the hwy is unacceptable. So I'm thinking I won't be able to delete the egr.
As far as the Air system, do you guys with catless exhausts notice rich, dirty or raw fuel smells on cold starts? I've built emissions-free cars all my life but I'm honestly gettin tired of smelling cars that smell like my law mower. The fact that most gas stations down here are using fuel refined from sour crude makes it that much worse: sour exhaust on a catless car that runs rich will get old quickly for me.
A car designed to run Without egr systems uses different cam timing events to utilize overlap to create exhaust reversion which will dilute the incoming air charge similar to how egr would when being routed through the intake.
I want to delete these systems but I really hesitant because I take road trips and getting less than 25mpg on the hwy is unacceptable. So I'm thinking I won't be able to delete the egr.
As far as the Air system, do you guys with catless exhausts notice rich, dirty or raw fuel smells on cold starts? I've built emissions-free cars all my life but I'm honestly gettin tired of smelling cars that smell like my law mower. The fact that most gas stations down here are using fuel refined from sour crude makes it that much worse: sour exhaust on a catless car that runs rich will get old quickly for me.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: VA
Just finished this today. I know this and several other threads are a bit dated - but it's pretty simple. .... For anyone still interested ... Lol
Just read through this thread and these (with links in posts). https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-removal.html and. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
Pump removal is easy. People just seem to get confused on the solenoid and air valve (saucer looking thing). Last couple of links have decent explanations and faqs.
And the line to cap is the one coming from the back of the intake manifold into the solenoid. The other lines run the "vacuum" from the solenoid to the valve. So all that matters, once all is removed, is capping the vacuum source line.
This helps ... The pic is from SSGunny
1. Mount for bracket
2. Vacuum line elbow
3. Vacuum check valve
4. AIR shutoff valve
5. AIR vacuum solenoid
Just read through this thread and these (with links in posts). https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-removal.html and. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
Pump removal is easy. People just seem to get confused on the solenoid and air valve (saucer looking thing). Last couple of links have decent explanations and faqs.
And the line to cap is the one coming from the back of the intake manifold into the solenoid. The other lines run the "vacuum" from the solenoid to the valve. So all that matters, once all is removed, is capping the vacuum source line.
This helps ... The pic is from SSGunny
1. Mount for bracket
2. Vacuum line elbow
3. Vacuum check valve
4. AIR shutoff valve
5. AIR vacuum solenoid
Last edited by T2TA; Sep 2, 2016 at 06:55 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 179
Likes: 2
From: So. IL
Just finished this today. I know this and several other threads are a bit dated - but it's pretty simple. .... For anyone still interested ... Lol
Just read through this thread and these (with links in posts). https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-removal.html and. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
Pump removal is easy. People just seem to get confused on the solenoid and air valve (saucer looking thing). Last couple of links have decent explanations and faqs.
And the line to cap is the one coming from the back of the intake manifold into the solenoid. The other lines run the "vacuum" from the solenoid to the valve. So all that matters, once all is removed, is capping the vacuum source line.
This helps ... The pic is from SSGunny
1. Mount for bracket
2. Vacuum line elbow
3. Vacuum check valve
4. AIR shutoff valve
5. AIR vacuum solenoid
Just read through this thread and these (with links in posts). https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-removal.html and. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
Pump removal is easy. People just seem to get confused on the solenoid and air valve (saucer looking thing). Last couple of links have decent explanations and faqs.
And the line to cap is the one coming from the back of the intake manifold into the solenoid. The other lines run the "vacuum" from the solenoid to the valve. So all that matters, once all is removed, is capping the vacuum source line.
This helps ... The pic is from SSGunny
1. Mount for bracket
2. Vacuum line elbow
3. Vacuum check valve
4. AIR shutoff valve
5. AIR vacuum solenoid
You cap the line at the back of the intake and everything else is removed?
Do you pull all of it off the back of the intake and install a freeze plug, or is that for !EGR? Or just cap the line?
Thanks!
