HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long)
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From: Padded cell
HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) First....I know....Dohh!!!!
Was re-torqueing oil pan bolts after a timing set/pump swap. Tq. wrench set to 18 ft-lbs and all was well until I got to the # 14 bolt in the sequence. Seemed like it was taking too many turns on the wrench, so I checked the setting to be sure not to over torque/ snap the bolt. Still at 18 ft-lbs...continued one more turn and SNAP.
Come to find out that the last two rear bolts are NOT pan bolts, but rear cover bolts(Haynes manual DOESN'T differentiate this on their pan bolt sequence)that only pass through the pan and are torqued torqued to 106 inch-lbs.
I realize I'll prolly have to drop the trans, but because I've not had the block out of the car, and don't recall how it looked when I had the trans out for clutch work, my question is.... are the two rear "pan" bolts that run through the pan exposed, or are they shrouded(isolated from the pan)? Looking at the picture Haynes gives, it almost looks as if they are exposed and are shrouded only where they thread into the block itself.
The bolt in question is #14 in the oil pan torqueing sequence, which is a M-10 head, but the bolt itself measures to about 7.78 mm. Also...any help on the best way to keep the drill bit centered on that bolt as not to destroy the block threads would be greatly appreciated.
TIA!!!!
Mike(simple chain/pump swap turning into a nightmare)
Was re-torqueing oil pan bolts after a timing set/pump swap. Tq. wrench set to 18 ft-lbs and all was well until I got to the # 14 bolt in the sequence. Seemed like it was taking too many turns on the wrench, so I checked the setting to be sure not to over torque/ snap the bolt. Still at 18 ft-lbs...continued one more turn and SNAP.
Come to find out that the last two rear bolts are NOT pan bolts, but rear cover bolts(Haynes manual DOESN'T differentiate this on their pan bolt sequence)that only pass through the pan and are torqued torqued to 106 inch-lbs.
I realize I'll prolly have to drop the trans, but because I've not had the block out of the car, and don't recall how it looked when I had the trans out for clutch work, my question is.... are the two rear "pan" bolts that run through the pan exposed, or are they shrouded(isolated from the pan)? Looking at the picture Haynes gives, it almost looks as if they are exposed and are shrouded only where they thread into the block itself.
The bolt in question is #14 in the oil pan torqueing sequence, which is a M-10 head, but the bolt itself measures to about 7.78 mm. Also...any help on the best way to keep the drill bit centered on that bolt as not to destroy the block threads would be greatly appreciated.
TIA!!!!
Mike(simple chain/pump swap turning into a nightmare)
Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) Center punch, first. Center on the core,
don't be fooled by the offset of the partial
threas. Then get the finest cobalt bit (like
1/16") you can find, to start in with. Align
by eye on two axes, how you're holding the
drill, you should be able to keep within
a couple of degrees from normal. Run the
little bit all the way through (back out swarf
as needed). If you think it ran true, then use
the next bigger size (or "***** it" with a
bit the size of the core). The more you take
out, the better a tool you can force in to
extract. If you get the core out w/o tracking
off from true, then you can pick out the
leftover thread with a dental pick etc.
Deep stuff, I would chase with a tap and
hook (to pull out any thread strings that
bunch up). Make your own hook out of MIG wire,
picture wire, etc.
You could try extracting the bolt once you've drilled a little way into it, wedge a mini
flat-blade screwdriver up it and turn w/
Vise-Grips on the shaft. Doesn't sound like
it's in very hard, but is wimpy bolt.
At least it'll drill easy. Take your time,
especially to start, get confident in your
angle and the rest is just work. Spend the
couple of bucks on some really good bits,
a tap, and maybe some pick-type tools at
Ace or something. Take the un-busted
counterpart with, for reference. 1/16",
one that's the size of the core and one
the size of the thread OD. Cuz...
If you smeg the hole, then drill it out clean
and retap to a larger size. Something you can
put a God-Fearin' American Bolt into. Not
this hex-headed pudding that these cars are
put together with.
don't be fooled by the offset of the partial
threas. Then get the finest cobalt bit (like
1/16") you can find, to start in with. Align
by eye on two axes, how you're holding the
drill, you should be able to keep within
a couple of degrees from normal. Run the
little bit all the way through (back out swarf
as needed). If you think it ran true, then use
the next bigger size (or "***** it" with a
bit the size of the core). The more you take
out, the better a tool you can force in to
extract. If you get the core out w/o tracking
off from true, then you can pick out the
leftover thread with a dental pick etc.
Deep stuff, I would chase with a tap and
hook (to pull out any thread strings that
bunch up). Make your own hook out of MIG wire,
picture wire, etc.
You could try extracting the bolt once you've drilled a little way into it, wedge a mini
flat-blade screwdriver up it and turn w/
Vise-Grips on the shaft. Doesn't sound like
it's in very hard, but is wimpy bolt.
At least it'll drill easy. Take your time,
especially to start, get confident in your
angle and the rest is just work. Spend the
couple of bucks on some really good bits,
a tap, and maybe some pick-type tools at
Ace or something. Take the un-busted
counterpart with, for reference. 1/16",
one that's the size of the core and one
the size of the thread OD. Cuz...
If you smeg the hole, then drill it out clean
and retap to a larger size. Something you can
put a God-Fearin' American Bolt into. Not
this hex-headed pudding that these cars are
put together with.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,604
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From: Los Angeles
Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) This is the second time I've heard of this happening. I'll be updating my oil pump document to reflect the information soon. There are definitly 2 seperate torque specs, one for the main oil pan bolts, one for those extra long back ones. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
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From: Padded cell
Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) Jimmyblue......thanx for the read/advice. Always "thought" I was a pretty good wrench(do all my own mod work)but I'm 'bout ill over this.
After closer investigation(little late...), the bolt(s) in question do NOT thread into the block, but rather into the bottom of the rear cover. Thinking it may be easier/safer to just pull the rear seal and remove the cover, and put the POS on a vise/drill press to get the carnage out. Rather R/R the rear seal than buy a new rear cover if I f'ed up drilling it out while on the car.
jmX.....I agree....would be great heads up info on the install doc.
Thanx guys!........
Mike
I/H/C '00WS6/M6
After closer investigation(little late...), the bolt(s) in question do NOT thread into the block, but rather into the bottom of the rear cover. Thinking it may be easier/safer to just pull the rear seal and remove the cover, and put the POS on a vise/drill press to get the carnage out. Rather R/R the rear seal than buy a new rear cover if I f'ed up drilling it out while on the car.
jmX.....I agree....would be great heads up info on the install doc.
Thanx guys!........
Mike
I/H/C '00WS6/M6
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) Yo Mike, these look familiar? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<img src="http://66.162.74.118/temp/drew/P8260134.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://66.162.74.118/temp/drew/P8260138.JPG" alt=" - " />
The story you told is precisely what happened to me, including the checking of the torque wrench and the "just one more turn", lol...
Anyway, can someone post the diagram of where these 2 bolts actually screw in? I'm a little confused on this...
Drew
'00 Formula WS6
<small>[ September 05, 2002, 01:24 AM: Message edited by: StretchNutz ]</small>
<img src="http://66.162.74.118/temp/drew/P8260134.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://66.162.74.118/temp/drew/P8260138.JPG" alt=" - " />
The story you told is precisely what happened to me, including the checking of the torque wrench and the "just one more turn", lol...
Anyway, can someone post the diagram of where these 2 bolts actually screw in? I'm a little confused on this...
Drew
'00 Formula WS6
<small>[ September 05, 2002, 01:24 AM: Message edited by: StretchNutz ]</small>
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
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From: Padded cell
Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) Drew...
Yah.....that be the lil' commie bastard...LOL!
If you've got a Haynes manual, go to 2D-16, and 2E-26.6 for a look at the rear cover. In those pics the motor is on a stand(upside down), so flip the page around to orient yourself and you'll see exactly where they thread into the rear cover.
The cover is already held in place by what looks like 9 10mm bolts, so why TF didn't they just space the pan bolts diferently in the pan rail(or add one more per side)as to eliminate the 2 POS long bolts? (Answer): 'cause at the time of design, the GM engineers couldn't put the crack pipe down long enough to think LOGICALLY. Seems like there was ALOT of that goin' on when they thought this jewell up (JMHO)...........
Peace.....
Mike
Yah.....that be the lil' commie bastard...LOL!
If you've got a Haynes manual, go to 2D-16, and 2E-26.6 for a look at the rear cover. In those pics the motor is on a stand(upside down), so flip the page around to orient yourself and you'll see exactly where they thread into the rear cover.
The cover is already held in place by what looks like 9 10mm bolts, so why TF didn't they just space the pan bolts diferently in the pan rail(or add one more per side)as to eliminate the 2 POS long bolts? (Answer): 'cause at the time of design, the GM engineers couldn't put the crack pipe down long enough to think LOGICALLY. Seems like there was ALOT of that goin' on when they thought this jewell up (JMHO)...........
Peace.....
Mike
Trending Topics
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) Get some easy-out drill bits. You drill a little hole into the bolt and then use the easy-out to remove the bolt. I'm not sure what the bolt looks like, but if you can use an easy-out, it will probably be the quickest/easiest way to remove the remaining bolt.
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Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) Another victim here...But I thought I would wait until I developed a leak or had to remove the tranny and oil pan to remove it. It has been about 3-4 thousand miles since it happened, and I have not had the first problem.
Kevin
Kevin
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 996
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Re: HELP...snapped oil pan bolt in block(long) God damn it!!! It happened to me too! Just swapped my oil pump yesterday, and snapped the rear pan bolt! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
I'm going to leave it for now. My oil pan is bone dry....
I'm going to leave it for now. My oil pan is bone dry....
