Throttle Body Water Bypass worth $17?
#2
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It doesn't do much, but is worth it. It has even proven to not be a problem in really cold climates. I wouldn't pay $17 for it though. All you need is a 2ft. piece of 3/8"(?) hose from kragen and you are set. This should cost ~$1.75 vs. $17.
Last edited by Redneck Z; 04-11-2006 at 11:22 PM.
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you dont need new hoses. all you need is a brass fitting that will connect one hose to another. also, you need 2 circular clamps that u screw to tighten them. it costed a total of 3 dollars for me at home depot. took me about 10 minutes to do on my LT1 and about the same for my friends LS1.
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#9
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LoL ... I didn't even buy hose. I just went to home depot and got a end to end coupler for the bigger hose (radiator side) and then just muscled the smaller hose (engine side) onto the coupler and put the clamps on. Cost me less than a buck i think
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When I fixed the sink in the kitchen, I cut some of the old line out and stuffed it into the TB hose ends and clamped it off. Cost me about 93 cents.
If it does give you 4 hp, then it's a pretty cost-effective gain, if you ask me.
If it does give you 4 hp, then it's a pretty cost-effective gain, if you ask me.
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Originally Posted by SailorZ28
What does this accomplish? I mean what the hell are you guys talking about? lol
#13
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1 long piece of hose works best, and is cheaper than a brass barbed fitting.
Be advised, the fitting on the radiator is larger than the fitting on the coolant tube connecting the heads. I suggest you get one that fits the smaller tube, decently, then force the other end over the radiator fitting. You might actually have to carve out the inside a bit with a knife.
You can yank those tubes OUT of the throttle body. It cleans up the appearance a little bit and allows a little more room to run your hose.
Be advised, the fitting on the radiator is larger than the fitting on the coolant tube connecting the heads. I suggest you get one that fits the smaller tube, decently, then force the other end over the radiator fitting. You might actually have to carve out the inside a bit with a knife.
You can yank those tubes OUT of the throttle body. It cleans up the appearance a little bit and allows a little more room to run your hose.
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
You can yank those tubes OUT of the throttle body. It cleans up the appearance a little bit and allows a little more room to run your hose.
#15
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Originally Posted by FstBlkz28
How the hell did you get those out? I worked on them for 20 min and couldn't get them to budge outwards at all. Only twist around!
There's a small lip you can drive a screwdriver or something under to get them moving out a little bit. That lip is what keeps them from being pressed into the throttle body too far. I've done this to 2 different ones. They are pressed in, and WILL come out if you keep after it.
The first one i did, i think i put the tubes in the vice, then turned/twisted/pulled like hell untill they popped out.
#16
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Originally Posted by WADDISME
BMR has kit for $17 shipped. Does it really get you 4 hp? Freezing temps not an issue with garage queen.
And NO I don't beleive it is worth any real HP either. BMR's test results are flawed BIG time as they actually record more HP with the HIGHEST air intake temps, so it totally goes against what they are trying to say. Plus a rolling road dyno is not accurate enough (or not operated accuratley enough) to make such conclusions on such small increases. +- 15rwhp is possible with out any changes to the vehicle over 5-6 dyno pulls, and it can and does vary which pulls record the highest numbers.
Also I don't beleive the coolant exists to prevent freezing as there are hundreds of other cars out there that don't have coolant thru the TB yet never have issues with freezing. I believe this is just a myth, folk law or make believe.
IMO the coolant is there to promote better cruise economy, warmer air is less dense so performance will suffer but mpg will improve. However the TB is only very small and the itake manifold plastic and not metal, so in order for it to significantly affect the air intake temps the air will have to move slowly thru it, such as 55-70mph in top gear. A 2.73 geared auto will only be spinning over at like 1500rpm with the TB blade almost shut so the intake air speed is comparitivly low. However at WOT or near WOT conditions the intake air speed is very fast and I seriusly doubt that it remains in the hot environment long enough to have any significant affect on intake air temps.
Personally the only time I would perform this mod is if I purchased an aftermarket TB which didn't cater for it.
#17
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Definitely DIY. I bought the BMR one because my NW 90 has no provisions for the coolant hoses. Now the hoses are 2 different diameters. I had thought the BMR fitting would then be two different sizes on each end. Thus figured I wouldn't have to bust a gut getting the hoses on. Well thats not the case, the $17 bucks you pay for the BMR, is just a short length of pipe with the same sized hose barbs on the end. Had I known that, would've just gone to the plumbing section of HD and spent 3 bucks. Lesson learned the hard way.
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Definitely a DIY mod.
FYI.....they didn't do it for performance or fuel economy reasons.
The reason they did it was for EMISSIONS....especially at cold start.
They've been doing this for a looooong time. On the 3rd gen cars (other than TPI), they have a switch that opens up to pull hot air off the exhaust manifolds when the car is cold. They've done it for a long time on many other vehicles to.
FYI.....they didn't do it for performance or fuel economy reasons.
The reason they did it was for EMISSIONS....especially at cold start.
They've been doing this for a looooong time. On the 3rd gen cars (other than TPI), they have a switch that opens up to pull hot air off the exhaust manifolds when the car is cold. They've done it for a long time on many other vehicles to.
#19
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Originally Posted by mrws6speed
Definitely a DIY mod.
FYI.....they didn't do it for performance or fuel economy reasons.
The reason they did it was for EMISSIONS....especially at cold start.
They've been doing this for a looooong time. On the 3rd gen cars (other than TPI), they have a switch that opens up to pull hot air off the exhaust manifolds when the car is cold. They've done it for a long time on many other vehicles to.
FYI.....they didn't do it for performance or fuel economy reasons.
The reason they did it was for EMISSIONS....especially at cold start.
They've been doing this for a looooong time. On the 3rd gen cars (other than TPI), they have a switch that opens up to pull hot air off the exhaust manifolds when the car is cold. They've done it for a long time on many other vehicles to.
The exhaust manifolds will heat up very quickly (less than a minute I would imagine) even when cold outside and will radiate heat, and yes you are correct many cars have an intake over the exhaust manifold to draw in hot air for this very reason.
But it may take a TB 5 mins maybe even 10 mins before it will actually be at a high enough temp and by that time the engine will have finished it's cold start cycle.