17 Rear Wheel HP from Muffler only
<small>[ September 22, 2002, 01:03 AM: Message edited by: Nine Finger 02 Z28 ]</small>
<strong>Are you running ported MAF ends?
Cheers,
Chris
ps- your numbers are nice <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No stock mass air descreened.Thank you Chris.I was happy considering it was 91F outside and my water temp was 226 on the dyno.
<small>[ September 22, 2002, 11:32 AM: Message edited by: Nine Finger 02 Z28 ]</small>
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order of business is to eliminate the
knock. That water temp is way too high.
Probably want to force the fans to run
(fan switch or setpoint software edit).
Running them full time will let you see
what your thermostat is really doing.
Race gas is not something you should need
on a stock compression engine unless you
have either excessive operating temps or
maybe some carbon buildup (oil consumption)
or a lean mixture imbalance (injector fouling /
age) that instigates premature ignition.
You know, they make some fairly large add-on
"pusher" fans that would easily fit inside
our nose areas. These could be run off any
kind of thermostatic or switch control, and
have nothing at all to do with the computer.
I've never seen any mention of people adding
these, but it seems like the simplest (in terms
of interactions w/ software and need to mess
with factory wiring) way to push down radiator
temperatures. I picked up an 18" one for one
of my other cars.
Anybody ever go this way? Seems like an idea.
Anytime you do the thermostat mod, TB bypass, or ANYTHING that might spill out coolant, you MUST properly 'burp' the cooling system. If you don't the air bubbles will rise to the combustion chambers on our engines. I am sure you know that the combustion chamber is the absolute hottest part of an engine and if not cooled properly detonation/preignition is one side effect.
Dave


