Any proof a Ported MAF will cause A4 tranny problems?
#1
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Not sure where this post belongs, but anyway:
I read every once in awhile that a "Home Ported" MAF will cause a loss in A4 tranny line pressure and result in possible tranny failure.
I have a gutted MAF on my car (I guess MAF ends would be the same), and I haven't really noticed a problem with shifting.
Anyway, I am doing a cam, header, head change when I get back from Korea. I will need PCM mods to delete some codes and a little tuning.
Do I need to put a stock MAF back on the car or buy maybe the PACE calibrated LS6 MAF, or just keep the home ported MAF?
Thanks,
Ron
I read every once in awhile that a "Home Ported" MAF will cause a loss in A4 tranny line pressure and result in possible tranny failure.
I have a gutted MAF on my car (I guess MAF ends would be the same), and I haven't really noticed a problem with shifting.
Anyway, I am doing a cam, header, head change when I get back from Korea. I will need PCM mods to delete some codes and a little tuning.
Do I need to put a stock MAF back on the car or buy maybe the PACE calibrated LS6 MAF, or just keep the home ported MAF?
Thanks,
Ron
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Ron,
I think the ported MAF will do more harm on the '01 & '02 cars. I did not have a problem with it on my '98 Camaro except that it leaned me out some. That can be corrected with MAFT or the tuning you talk about should take care of it.
Les
I think the ported MAF will do more harm on the '01 & '02 cars. I did not have a problem with it on my '98 Camaro except that it leaned me out some. That can be corrected with MAFT or the tuning you talk about should take care of it.
Les
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Sorry for butting in here fellas. (truck guy) But I've been very concerned with this myself. I recently had to have the valve body replaced at 4k miles.
The dealer shop manager made me take the truck home and remove the granatelli maf before he would even work on it. He also said that the maf determines shift points etc. and could cause the trans to go out.
But he also told me that the center section of an aftermarket maf could be sucked into the engine so I had just wrote it all off as <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" />
But seeing this makes me wonder if he was serious. Am I on my way to killing another trans here? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
The dealer shop manager made me take the truck home and remove the granatelli maf before he would even work on it. He also said that the maf determines shift points etc. and could cause the trans to go out.
But he also told me that the center section of an aftermarket maf could be sucked into the engine so I had just wrote it all off as <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" />
But seeing this makes me wonder if he was serious. Am I on my way to killing another trans here? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
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Yes, a ported MAF will cause your tranny to slip after awhile. For me, it was about 3,000 miles after it was ported that it started to slip. I put a set of new stock MAF ends on and it shifted like new again. If you want to run ported MAF ends, put them on about 10 miles before you intend to race. When your done, put them back to stock.
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I did a lot of testing with this. The ported Maf really helped my car performance wise but when the ported ends were in the converter would go in & out of lockup on the highway. Putting the stocks ends on would cure the lockup issue everytime. Also logged the tranny "pressure control solenoid" voltage with Atap both with & without the ported ends. The ported ends DID pull line pressure in certain situations. I finally put the stock ends back on & tuned the A/F with a maft to get the same results as the ported Maf.However if you go too far with the Maft, it does the same thing to the converter & line pressure as the ported ends.
The ported ends help our cars because they lean them out & give us more timing,NOT because of added flow. The stock Maf with stock ends flow more than enough air for a N/A LS1.
After all my testing I'm convinced the ported ends will hurt the tranny given enough time.
The ported ends help our cars because they lean them out & give us more timing,NOT because of added flow. The stock Maf with stock ends flow more than enough air for a N/A LS1.
After all my testing I'm convinced the ported ends will hurt the tranny given enough time.
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Thanks for the replies. I have had that ported MAF on the car since 1998. I am starting to have doubts about it.
Too bad I did not just buy MAF ends. Come to think about it, I don't think MAF ends were even avail when we ported this thing. Now I will need to purchase a whole new MAF. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Hate to spend $160 on a Pace modified LS6 MAF. Wonder how much I would need to pay for just a regular stock LS1 MAF?
Ron,
Too bad I did not just buy MAF ends. Come to think about it, I don't think MAF ends were even avail when we ported this thing. Now I will need to purchase a whole new MAF. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
Hate to spend $160 on a Pace modified LS6 MAF. Wonder how much I would need to pay for just a regular stock LS1 MAF?
Ron,
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Ron, If you plan on getting ls1edit you can make the necessary changes to run the ported maf.
Without changes the pcm is tricked into thinking the engine is under less load (from the maf porting) and uses a lower load/pressure table for the trans at WOT.
Not good.
Steve
Without changes the pcm is tricked into thinking the engine is under less load (from the maf porting) and uses a lower load/pressure table for the trans at WOT.
Not good.
Steve
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SJH...
Good point. I am going to need the car tuned anyway. Also need a bunch of codes deleted (rear O2, AIR, random misfire, EGR) but I am now thinking maybe just play it safe and buy a new MAF.
Jeeze, to think, that gutted MAF has been on there since mid 98! Well, the car only has 34,000 miles on it, but still...
Again, any idea whats a good price for a stock LS1 MAF?
Good point. I am going to need the car tuned anyway. Also need a bunch of codes deleted (rear O2, AIR, random misfire, EGR) but I am now thinking maybe just play it safe and buy a new MAF.
Jeeze, to think, that gutted MAF has been on there since mid 98! Well, the car only has 34,000 miles on it, but still...
Again, any idea whats a good price for a stock LS1 MAF?
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One thing to keep in mind is that the TAP cells (line pressure adjustment cells that perform a feedback function analogous to the LTFT cells in the fueling system) are indexed by torque. If you believe the torque value is a function of MAF signal you can see how this would factor in if your MAF signal has been doctored. You can get around this with LS1-Edit if your goal is to *calibrate* your ported MAF properly (vs dinking with fuel trims which is completely different.) If I was intent on doing this I'd do it on a bench using a scope. I don't think the MAF is enough of a restriction in stock displacement engines to justify the effort.
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i needed to purchase a new maf(i ported the stock one) and checked several places. gm partsdirect has the for 105.00 + shipping
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very simple. ported maf = more air, but the computer does not see it.
IT effects the load of the engine, thus when you are undermore load, the computer can still be using a lower table.
It gains power, by leaning out a car.
Its one of these mods, that i would not do to any car.
Fix the problem, and re-tune the car, dont just "trick" the computer to do anything.
Ryan.
IT effects the load of the engine, thus when you are undermore load, the computer can still be using a lower table.
It gains power, by leaning out a car.
Its one of these mods, that i would not do to any car.
Fix the problem, and re-tune the car, dont just "trick" the computer to do anything.
Ryan.
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just wondering, but will removing the screen on the maf cause any problems? I have that done on my 2000 Z and now have tranny problems. the maf is not ported at all.
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just wondering, but will removing the screen on the maf cause any problems? I have that done on my 2000 Z and now have tranny problems. the maf is not ported at all.
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Don't know if U will call it proof but here has been my experience ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...;f=24;t=000294
and this is what resulted ! <img border="0" alt="[kaboom]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" />
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c;f=7;t=006335
So becareful with those ends ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...;f=24;t=000294
and this is what resulted ! <img border="0" alt="[kaboom]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" />
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c;f=7;t=006335
So becareful with those ends ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by fla00z28:
<strong>just wondering, but will removing the screen on the maf cause any problems? I have that done on my 2000 Z and now have tranny problems. the maf is not ported at all.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, it's the screen that makes the main difference.
I've tried screenless and with MAF ends, and I can notice the difference right away. Car doesn't lockup properly all the time, comes in/out of lockup a lot, and shifts very sloppily. I took that crap off my car after the initial testing and threw it in the trash.
For those who have ported MAFs, put the stock ends back on for a day and see if you notice a difference. I bet you will. You'll then realize you were just used to the sloppy shifting (low line pressure) like I was. I hope I didn't hurt anything on my car, despite the short amount of time I had them on.
Dope
<strong>just wondering, but will removing the screen on the maf cause any problems? I have that done on my 2000 Z and now have tranny problems. the maf is not ported at all.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, it's the screen that makes the main difference.
I've tried screenless and with MAF ends, and I can notice the difference right away. Car doesn't lockup properly all the time, comes in/out of lockup a lot, and shifts very sloppily. I took that crap off my car after the initial testing and threw it in the trash.
For those who have ported MAFs, put the stock ends back on for a day and see if you notice a difference. I bet you will. You'll then realize you were just used to the sloppy shifting (low line pressure) like I was. I hope I didn't hurt anything on my car, despite the short amount of time I had them on.
Dope
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Dope...
So your saying you would be much better off with a stock non-ported MAF [with] the screen vs a stock MAF without the screen?
I always felt that the screen removal was never the problem, but the gutting of the MAF (or the aftermarket MAF ends) were...
Ron,
So your saying you would be much better off with a stock non-ported MAF [with] the screen vs a stock MAF without the screen?
I always felt that the screen removal was never the problem, but the gutting of the MAF (or the aftermarket MAF ends) were...
Ron,
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I have a 98 Z and I too ported the maf...the ends and the maf sensor along with the screen...in other words...I did exactly what the "mafapalooza"said....so should I just need the stock non-ported ends with the screen or do i need the sensor too!....Me and a buddy autotapped it and it was running a little lean only while coasting....i just want to try different things to see which is better results after being autotapped....
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I've had them on my wife's 2000 TA for over 3 years now with a Vig 3200. Never any converter or transmission problems. Theory is good, proof is a whole other ballgame. I'll keep running mine.
Paul
Paul