Harmonic Balancer
Harmonic Balancer I plan to change out my old balancer with a 'new' one I got from a friend...don't have the cash for an underdrive right now and I have to change it ASAP..can see rubber coming out of it and its driving me crazy with all the noise.
Any tips on the install? I rented a harmonic balancer install kit from AutoZone today and got a Chrysler pulley puller...seemed to fit best. Ive got a large breaker bar and a 24mm deep well to take it off, but my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs and I think the torque specs call for like 230 (plus I don't know how i'm gonna get on it that hard)
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
Any tips on the install? I rented a harmonic balancer install kit from AutoZone today and got a Chrysler pulley puller...seemed to fit best. Ive got a large breaker bar and a 24mm deep well to take it off, but my torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs and I think the torque specs call for like 230 (plus I don't know how i'm gonna get on it that hard)
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
Originally Posted by stillremains
You mean this?
Originally Posted by you2slo
I know a complete noob question, but the radiator doesn't need to be removed when doing only a pulley swap, right?
I don't think so. It would be easier, but I think it's only really necessary if you're trying to slide the cam out.
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Hey guys, I have a problem
Everything went smoothly until re-installing the balancer. I used a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it on enough where the bolt would bite, started tightening it down, and it went about 3/4 of an inch and wouldnt go anymore. I tried to put some force behind it, and it still wasnt right, so i pulled the old bolt back out and THE END OF IT WAS STRIPPED! It was covered in metal shards, all of which seem to be aluminum and I have no clue what to do. I don't want to mess up the crank. Im hoping if i run the correct tap down it, it will clean out whatever junk was in the threads to cause this...yall think that would work? HELP!
Everything went smoothly until re-installing the balancer. I used a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it on enough where the bolt would bite, started tightening it down, and it went about 3/4 of an inch and wouldnt go anymore. I tried to put some force behind it, and it still wasnt right, so i pulled the old bolt back out and THE END OF IT WAS STRIPPED! It was covered in metal shards, all of which seem to be aluminum and I have no clue what to do. I don't want to mess up the crank. Im hoping if i run the correct tap down it, it will clean out whatever junk was in the threads to cause this...yall think that would work? HELP!
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Originally Posted by TwistedZ28
Hey guys, I have a problem
Everything went smoothly until re-installing the balancer. I used a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it on enough where the bolt would bite, started tightening it down, and it went about 3/4 of an inch and wouldnt go anymore. I tried to put some force behind it, and it still wasnt right, so i pulled the old bolt back out and THE END OF IT WAS STRIPPED! It was covered in metal shards, all of which seem to be aluminum and I have no clue what to do. I don't want to mess up the crank. Im hoping if i run the correct tap down it, it will clean out whatever junk was in the threads to cause this...yall think that would work? HELP!
Everything went smoothly until re-installing the balancer. I used a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it on enough where the bolt would bite, started tightening it down, and it went about 3/4 of an inch and wouldnt go anymore. I tried to put some force behind it, and it still wasnt right, so i pulled the old bolt back out and THE END OF IT WAS STRIPPED! It was covered in metal shards, all of which seem to be aluminum and I have no clue what to do. I don't want to mess up the crank. Im hoping if i run the correct tap down it, it will clean out whatever junk was in the threads to cause this...yall think that would work? HELP!
It will be hard as **** to find a long *** tap though.
Did you not read the install guide at all? You either need a longer bolt or a threaded rod with a nut to do it right. You can also stick the pulley in the oven to help it go on farther.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
The end of the bolt was stripped or the crank was stripped? I would get an air blower/magnet and try to remove all the material I could, then run a tap in the crank.
It will be hard as **** to find a long *** tap though.
Did you not read the install guide at all? You either need a longer bolt or a threaded rod with a nut to do it right. You can also stick the pulley in the oven to help it go on farther.
It will be hard as **** to find a long *** tap though.
Did you not read the install guide at all? You either need a longer bolt or a threaded rod with a nut to do it right. You can also stick the pulley in the oven to help it go on farther.
Originally Posted by you2slo
The longer bolt is to be used when reinstalling the new pulley so that you have enough bite to start pulling. Post a pic of the end of the bolt.
Hey I'm sure it's listed on this forum somewhere but where is a good place to get the longer crankshaft pulley bolt??? Fastenal maybe?-I looked at some auto parts store and a couple of hardware stores and nothing even close. I pulled my stock one off with a puller/installer set to put on SLP's 25% pulley but can't reach the threads with the installer bolts or the pulley bolt itself...any thoughts will be appreciated
Originally Posted by wht01ws6ta
Hey I'm sure it's listed on this forum somewhere but where is a good place to get the longer crankshaft pulley bolt??? Fastenal maybe?-I looked at some auto parts store and a couple of hardware stores and nothing even close. I pulled my stock one off with a puller/installer set to put on SLP's 25% pulley but can't reach the threads with the installer bolts or the pulley bolt itself...any thoughts will be appreciated
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/391883-new-crank-dampener-installation-tool-pics.html
I graciously accept cash donations for my "help"...
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391883
I graciously accept cash donations for my "help"...
I graciously accept cash donations for my "help"...
Has anyone tried the heating method? I've done it before for other press fit stuff and wonder why more people don't do it for the crank pulley as well. Pop it in the oven and set it to the lowest temp (less than 250 degrees) for about 30 minutes and it should go on pretty easily. Let it cool for a while and you should be good to go.
Only reason I could see not doing it this way is if it were a fluid harmonic balancer.
Only reason I could see not doing it this way is if it were a fluid harmonic balancer.
Originally Posted by Cop Car
and the fact that you then have a 250 degree ballancer you have to remove from oven, take to the garage, get under the car with and put it back on, all without burning yourself.
Next your going to say that it's dangerous changing spark plugs because you arms could get scraped.
Take off the skirt, and if you do get burned, what's another scar, it heals, unless of course your a hand model....
If you haven't realized, I'm kidding and was just surprised that you'd be worried about handling a hot part.