I am wondering what methods people use to install their crank pulley and where do you get tools needed for the job. Thanks

 

Rent a pulley puller from Autozone. Make sure you have a breaker bar, and a torque wrench. I don't remember the bolt size at the moment, but a deepwell socket for the crank bolt (or shallow socket with an extension) will be needed. It will also make the swap 100x easier if you have a bolt or some allthread the same size as the crank bolt but longer. The crank bolt isn't long enough to pull the stock pulley off the snout all the way. Use the old bolt to seat the new pulley, and then put the new bolt in.

I hope you have some gorilla strength! ...you'll need it! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Oh yeah!...

If its an M6, put it in 5th gear. That way the pulley won't turn while you're trying to get it off.

If its an A4... Somebody else better chime in! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by blown98z28:
<strong> Thanks for the info, but I repeat... "INSTALL"... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ok...

Step 1: Drive car up on ramps and put in 5th gear.

Step 2: Take belts off.

Step 3: Get under car.

Step 4: Take breaker bar w/socket and put it on crank bolt, prop feet against the wheel.

Step 5: Use the above mentioned "gorilla strength" to "break" the bolt free.

Step 6: Take bolt out and put longer bolt (or allthread) in just about 1/4"

Step 7: Put pulley puller on pulley and back it off.

Step 8: Seat new pulley on crank snout using the old bolt. (you want to use the old bolt because the crank pulley bolt is torque to yield, and you've already taken it out) Torque to 240 ft.-lbs. ...if you can! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> Gorilla strength works here too.

Step 9: Once new pulley is seated, take out old bolt and put new bolt in. (I just used the old German mthod gutentite (good and tight) when I put the new bolt in. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Step 10: Put new belts on.

VOILA!!!

Mobe's 10 steps to installing a crank pulley! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

 

I would install a new seal too...you'd hate to end up doing this twice because of an oil leak. The seal pops out from the front with a seal puller.

 

Don't forget to put blue loctite on the threads of the new bolt, and don't be shy with it either <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

Thanks for the info, but I repeat... "INSTALL"... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Might want to go pick up a longer bolt. I got a 130mmx16mmx2.0 thread pitch bolt... had to get a BUNCH of washers because it was actually too long.

That got the pulley pressed on there rather easily.

If it's an Auto... you can pick up a tool to put in the starters place to keep the crank from spinning... or you can pop the access cover off the bottom of the trans and stick a 16mm box wrench in there to hold it.

 

Moving to EXTERNAL Engine section....

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong> Moving to EXTERNAL Engine section.... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">"IF OIL TOUCHES IT, IT'S INTERNAL"

Oil touches the back edge of the pulley hub past the crank seal. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

I did't think locktite was recommended on those. The factory stock bolt doesn't have any on it. I personally didn't use any because when I need to get it off again for whatever reason in the future, I didn't want to give myself a hurnea (sp?)! If you torque it down to 240 ft-lbs it ain't comming out. Its already hard enough to get out! Why make it harder? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />