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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #41  
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I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and deepwell socket, once out ...it stayed out for good !!
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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lol if you think this bolt is bad wait until you do valvesprings on #8.

I have small hands and it's a pain for me.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike02Z
I had a car fall on me when a jack stand broke when I was 16. 1966 Thunderbird too, big *** car. I broke a shitload if ribs and punctured a lung and was lucky I didn't die so I will NEVER get under a car again unless I have a lift that is why I've been so adament about getting that number 8 from the top. I'll get it!
Holy **** dude! Sorry to hear that. I'd prolly never get under a car again if that happened to me. I've heard of people dying in cases like that too. I always have a jackstand and the jack under the car when I'm under there.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 03:44 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
Holy **** dude! Sorry to hear that. I'd prolly never get under a car again if that happened to me. I've heard of people dying in cases like that too. I always have a jackstand and the jack under the car when I'm under there.
No problem buddy, it was 23 years ago you think I'd be over my fear by now.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:33 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by keliente
lol if you think this bolt is bad wait until you do valvesprings on #8.

I have small hands and it's a pain for me.
i was worried about that
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Old May 31, 2006 | 08:57 PM
  #46  
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oh yeah do dual valvesprings with the MOORE tool on number eight!! yes certain things on these cars are a bitch buy deal with them. I use a gearwrench on the last coil pack bolt. usually takes me 5-6 minutes. be patient it will come out.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by yak
oh yeah do dual valvesprings with the MOORE tool on number eight!! yes certain things on these cars are a bitch buy deal with them. I use a gearwrench on the last coil pack bolt. usually takes me 5-6 minutes. be patient it will come out.
where the hell do i get a moore tool
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Old May 31, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #48  
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For valve springs the best tool on the market is the Crane tool. You can get it at Thunder. It will hold both springs compressed while you mess with the locks and retainers. The other tools require you to use leverage with one hand while fishing the locks out with the other hand. Its not that easy on hard to reach areas where the Crane tool sits in place and makes life 100% easier. It cost more money but its well worth it in aggravation saved. That and an air fitting for the spark plug holes to keep your valves up.

Last edited by 99blancoSS; May 31, 2006 at 10:02 PM.
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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:14 PM
  #49  
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do not waste 100 on the moore tool. I broke it when I used it. It is cheap aluminium and it was a mess after 7 cylinders. I now use the tool sold here. it works really good and was only like 35 shipped.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 10:57 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by yak
do not waste 100 on the moore tool. I broke it when I used it. It is cheap aluminium and it was a mess after 7 cylinders. I now use the tool sold here. it works really good and was only like 35 shipped.
And people have had trouble with that one as well. Yes it works and is cheap but its primitive and can be built your self for a lot less. As well as the fact that it doesnt center the compression of the spring. It is at an angle and can break your rocker boss. There is a thread here or two where people have done it. Its a cheap innaccurate immitation of the Crane tool. The Crane tool expensive but well worth it. Especialy if you touch the springs more than once. Depending on your cam lift and lobes will determin how much you'll touch your springs. (barring breakage)

Try to find someone you know that has one you can borrow. I'll let you borrow mine for a deposit and you pay for shipping both ways as well as a rental fee. You return it to me in the same shape I sent it to you and you get you deposit back. I rent it to you thru the mail.

Last edited by 99blancoSS; Jun 1, 2006 at 11:04 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 11:12 AM
  #51  
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Just checked. The Crane tool is $114.99 at Thunder Racing.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 11:26 AM
  #52  
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For that kind of $ I can't see why people wouldn't just buy it.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:24 PM
  #53  
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Back to what you guys were saying about stuff cutting you in the engine compartment, what about those damn valve covers? I swear one time it got me down to the muscle. Those things are razor sharp. What was GM thinking?!? I'm gonna dremel down the edges when I clean them up for my coil relocation...

As for the last coil-pack bolt, let's just say that no one will ever see mine again. It met a nasty end...

I'm going to be lucky for a while with the valve springs. When I get the car paid off and do the cam swap, I'm doing heads at the same time, so I won't have to assemble JACK in the valvetrain. But about 10k miles down the road I'll get my share of PITA valve spring changes...

Side note: keliente - I think it's cool to see a lady working on her own car for a change. There's only a handful locally that will even attempt to check their own oil.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Just checked. The Crane tool is $114.99 at Thunder Racing.
lol i got one at auto zone for 20 bucks.... i dont have 100+ for some tool im going to use once
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 04:32 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by LS144
Sucks bad I know that....drivers side wasnt bad at all the passenger sides a diff story....I took a cutting tool and cut off the sharp pointed bolts on my coikl packs anyone else do that??

I replaced all my evil pointy-top bolts with pretty stainless bolts from Home Depot :



Rob (Bad30th)
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 04:39 PM
  #56  
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son of a bitch.... i just looked at the tool i got.... apparently its not going to work out real well with the back springs so i just bought the crane tool 2nd day air.... blah

talk about eating my own words

however from what i see it looks like i can resell it on here for 80 bucks with little problem afterwards
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