Ls1 Header Install
Ls1 Header Install I Want To Put Headers On My 99 Z, I Just Wanted To Ask Anyone If Its Hard To Do And If Their Is Any Easy Ways To Do It. Also How Much Horsepower Gains I Could Expect, The Only Mods I Have Now Is Slp Lid , Knn Filter, Free Mods Done And Magnaflow Exhaust, Thanks Your Help Would Be Appreciated.
if you can get a lift it'll be a lot easier but reagardless there's some pretty tight spots for tools so just make sure you borrow a kid from day care to help ya. But seriously it's not that bad just take your time and have some patience, something always goes not as planned but chances are you can fix it no prob. Without removing anything from the engine bay except the egr and air tubes you can get the bolts, a couple are really really slow turners.
Like he said, its time consuming and a pain. Get ready for some bloody knuckles.
When we put mine on, I was doing the clutch at the same time so I had the tranny out of the car and it made things alot easier, and it was on a lift.
As far as performance, you'll be happy with it. Not only will it make the car sound better, you'll notice the performance gain. I dont know numbers, but I've read some guys say in the neighborhood of 20 hp.
When we put mine on, I was doing the clutch at the same time so I had the tranny out of the car and it made things alot easier, and it was on a lift.
As far as performance, you'll be happy with it. Not only will it make the car sound better, you'll notice the performance gain. I dont know numbers, but I've read some guys say in the neighborhood of 20 hp.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
It not difficult, it's just tedious... see the stickies for install details.
The hard parts are removing the old [rusted out] system and adjusting the exhaust plumbing on the new system so it doesn't bang into the car floor;
once you have the car about 30" off the ground, most headers just slide in pretty easy; I did it all by myself and I found it just a little hard to hold the headers in place while installing the gaskets and trying to start the bolts (I used a jackstand and a wooden block to support the headers and that helped alot);
don't overtighten any bolts, pay attention to what components fit where, take your time, be meticulous, clean the side of the heads, the header flanges and your hands before installing the gaskests and bolts (this helps in avoiding leaks);
use antiseize on header bolts and spark plugs;
pay attention that the O2 wiring does not touch the headers.
Edit: position the Y-pipe so it barely clears the sheet metal cross-brace and then tighten all the clamps; this will give you the most clearance between the Y-pipe and the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel and between the L-pipe and the driver side floor rib (this seems to be where banging usually occurs).
The hard parts are removing the old [rusted out] system and adjusting the exhaust plumbing on the new system so it doesn't bang into the car floor;
once you have the car about 30" off the ground, most headers just slide in pretty easy; I did it all by myself and I found it just a little hard to hold the headers in place while installing the gaskets and trying to start the bolts (I used a jackstand and a wooden block to support the headers and that helped alot);
don't overtighten any bolts, pay attention to what components fit where, take your time, be meticulous, clean the side of the heads, the header flanges and your hands before installing the gaskests and bolts (this helps in avoiding leaks);
use antiseize on header bolts and spark plugs;
pay attention that the O2 wiring does not touch the headers.
Edit: position the Y-pipe so it barely clears the sheet metal cross-brace and then tighten all the clamps; this will give you the most clearance between the Y-pipe and the passenger side of the driveshaft tunnel and between the L-pipe and the driver side floor rib (this seems to be where banging usually occurs).
Last edited by joecar; Jun 16, 2006 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Typos...
If your going with Hooker Longtubes it is do-able on the garage floor like all other ones but when doing the passenger side you need the car up off the ground a good ways to sneak it in. Other than that it is not a hard install... now doing tranny and clutch work on the floor is no fun...
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
I used the $99 3-ton floor jack from Sears with a 4x4 wooden block to get up there (probably about 24", I didn't measure it), and 3-ton jackstands under the subframe rails to hold it up; it's fairly easy to do, just take your time and pay attention.
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