ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I've got a couple leaks where the MC's meet the Y pipe which is causing the car to run like absolute crap with it leaking before the 02's. I need to be able to drive it to MD which is about an hour away, so I need temporary fix in the meantime until the exhaust gets welded up. Any ideas?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Fold up a bunch of aluminum foil into like 2" wide strips that are long enough to wrap around the pipe at the joint, then put a band clamp over that and tighten the **** out of it. It should conform to the shapes and fill in the gaps. Smear a little RTV right on the joint before putting the foil on for even more leak-seal-age.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I already put some exhaust gasket sorta stuff on it, I'm not sure the aluminum would work at this point. I need something that can conform and fill in the leaks that are still getting through the exhaust gasket crap.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Aluminum HVAC tape (comes in a large roll at
Home Depot, or a much smaller roll for the same
price at auto parts stores). Few turns of that
should do it, especially if you put it inside a
band clamp.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

Inside a band clamp? Do you mean wrapping it around the exhaust and then putting the clamp over it? I can do that for where the MC's meet the Y but not where the headers meet the MC's, they have a bolt/nut on each side and they can't be pulled together any more than they already are.

RrCoX22

iTrader: (6)

some aluminum foil or tape should work fine w/some clamps... thats what i used when i had a 3" gap in my y-pipe right before the cat.... you say its at the header/y gasket? ...not much you can do there.... it's not like an exhaust leak is going to permenatly damage your car if your just drivin it for an hour or so... my friend has been driving with one for six-months

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

It's going to foul my plugs though if I keep driving on it. The leak causes the passenger side bank to just dump fuel into it and makes it run like it's on 2 cylinders. I can barely get the car going b/c it's lack of power.

CRL 01 SS

iTrader: (4)

Get some Permatex RTV Copper Gasket Maker. Loosen the clamps up and slide them back. Then apply the Copper Gasket Maker around where the pipes join. Spread it all the way around with your finger. Slide the clamps back over the joint, and tighten them up. Let the Copper Gasket Maker dry overnight before you crank the car up. This worked for me.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

JB weld.

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

I got the exhaust repair tape from Autozone. It's an orange colored wrap. Wrap that around the header/Ypipe joint and then use a band clap around it. Once it heats up......no more leaks.

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

Get some quicksteel. Then you won't have to have it rewelded! I use the stuff for everything. Works great.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I'm just looking for a temp fix until Monday morning when I take the car to my exhaust person to have them fix everything correctly.... as well as put in dual e-cutouts

JoePublic

Something I created out of need. C Flange Bracket. There' a lot of pushback for a product not on the market. Every exhaust has a potential to leak. The most common leaks are at the flange, connecting points along the exhaust system. See for yourself if this is a good flange fix.

https://youtu.be/zBdFKlVRh48

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

If it’s leaking where one pipe slides inside another, take an angle grinder and cut two slits 180 degrees apart on the outer pipe. Then use a band clamp. When you tighten it, the slits will give it room to compress. Won’t be perfect but should stop significant leaks.

Unless your outer pipe is already slotted. In which case, feel free to insult me as a complete moron