is there a write up on debaffling for the intake
11-08-2006, 02:33 PM
#2
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Maybe soon there will be 
If your planning it, your gonna want a dremel.
And I hope you like sanding.
Actually, there is one I remember seeing, it was short but it covered the basics.
If I remember right the thread title made it harder to find.
If your planning it, your gonna want a dremel.
And I hope you like sanding.
Actually, there is one I remember seeing, it was short but it covered the basics.
If I remember right the thread title made it harder to find.
Last edited by DirtyJohn; 11-08-2006 at 02:40 PM.
11-08-2006, 02:50 PM
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Debaffling the intake lid isnt that difficult. Its just a matter of getting out a pair of pliers and breaking off each of the baffles. And like dirtyjohn said I hope you like sanding 
11-08-2006, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by firebird5134
Debaffling the intake lid isnt that difficult. Its just a matter of getting out a pair of pliers and breaking off each of the baffles. And like dirtyjohn said I hope you like sanding
Theres a write up somewhere but be warned, you may wanna make some type of rain block-off plate
11-08-2006, 03:15 PM
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Oh I thought he meant the intake manifold.
If your doing the stock lid, I'd save the time and buy an aftermarket one.
Unless your trying to be stealthy and look stockish, in which case, I hope you like sanding.
If your doing the stock lid, I'd save the time and buy an aftermarket one.
Unless your trying to be stealthy and look stockish, in which case, I hope you like sanding.
11-08-2006, 03:19 PM
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Don't mess your time with modifying your stock lid as it will never flow as good as an aftermarket one. A new lid is only about $100 or get a used one for about half that.
11-08-2006, 08:58 PM
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Unless you are trying to go stealth like they mentioned above. Buying an aftermarket lid is much more worth it. Unless your time is worth less than $20.00 an hour or so. Then you might want to do it yourself.
The aftermarket lid is shaped differently and it also gets rid of the stock resonator.
The aftermarket lid is shaped differently and it also gets rid of the stock resonator.
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11-09-2006, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by philly3384
which lid should i go with? i was thinking slp
What to look for is a connection for the AIR hoze, if you care.
If your year is < 01' you'll need to buy a breather that goes on the end of the hoze for $5 or so and tuck it away in your engine bay, which I think looks kindof janky, so I nuked my AIR with the LT's.
Basically, look for what you think looks the best, carbon fiber, clear, logos etc...there pretty much all the same.
I have an MTI if it matters, and ive been pretty rough with it and its held up like a champ.
11-09-2006, 08:44 AM
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thats a good choice. GMHTP did another lid article recently and you may be able to find results online. You really cant go wrong with any of them, and you can find most for $100 new. SLP/TSP etc
11-09-2006, 09:20 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by philly3384
which lid should i go with? i was thinking slp
If you search however there appears to be more issues with MTI & Whipser lids cracking.
SLP seem pretty decent although some, and it is only some complain of it rubbing the inside of the hood.
TSP (Texas Speed & Performance), when I was researching this, TSP lids seemed to have the least amount of negative comments.
But as they are all ~$95 it doesn't really matter.
And yeah don't waste your time with the stock lid. The baffles are not the issues with it, it's the plenium size and the 2 great big air silencer attached to the lid that affect the performance.
