Making my own header studs, possible?
Making my own header studs, possible? So, I was looking at ARP header studs....(NOT HEAD STUDS, HEADERS)
and Im like why the hell would I pay that much just for header studs....now I understand that the strength of the ARP stuff is second to none, I have their head bolts...
however, if I wanted to couldn't I just get a small bolt that has the same thread as the stock header bolts, cut the head off of the bolt, clean it up, and use it has a stud with a high quality nut/lock washer and a lil blue lock tite? all for like $15...
Thanks
Erik
and Im like why the hell would I pay that much just for header studs....now I understand that the strength of the ARP stuff is second to none, I have their head bolts...
however, if I wanted to couldn't I just get a small bolt that has the same thread as the stock header bolts, cut the head off of the bolt, clean it up, and use it has a stud with a high quality nut/lock washer and a lil blue lock tite? all for like $15...
Thanks
Erik
I know NAPA sells studs that fit the stock size for around $2.25 a bolt. Add in the cost of a lock washer and bolt and you're looking at roughly $5 each for a total of $50 give or take.
It's not a bad idea, there really isn't alot of force associated with holding the header on, but it is nice having studs so you can avoid stripping a bolt hole.
It's not a bad idea, there really isn't alot of force associated with holding the header on, but it is nice having studs so you can avoid stripping a bolt hole.
Originally Posted by purdueranger
I have studs on just the 4 perimater header bolts. It makes a world of difference when trying to put the headers back on.
I have found that the problem with header bolts is trying to thread them in with the weight of the header pulling them at an angle. If you are working with someone else who can hold the header while you hand start all of the bolts, then it shouldn't be a problem. But if you are one to work on your car by yourself, having the studs there ensures that the bolts don't get over torqued into the head and you are assured that they won't bottom out. I had a bolt bottom out and snap off into the head which I tried to get out with an easy out but just ended up messing up the head. So now the head is going to get pulled and sent out to a machine shop to clean up my mess.
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Whatever you do, make sure the hardware is of high enough grade. While this fastener's torque specs are relatively low, this fastener has a good amount of force applied to it when the motor torgues/tilts while the exhaust hangs.
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Verdad Gallardo very very true....i think ill just stcik with some bolts.....they did fine before, theyll do fine now..should I upgrade to any particular bolt or just use stockers?
I torqued them by feel using a 1/4" drive ratchet or a 10mm speed wrench. Don't go crazy, just fairly tight with a 1/4" drive should be fine. Make a few passes, starting in the middle and work your way out. Don't quote me but I think the torque spec is 18 ft/lbs first pass, and 22 second pass.
The Stage8 locking fasteners are fine. Stock bolts are good enough and I bet most dealers have them in stock, mine did and they were around 70 cents each. Or if you're into fasteners, check out the Breslin locking fastener. They're pretty cool but they go for about $5 each.
The Stage8 locking fasteners are fine. Stock bolts are good enough and I bet most dealers have them in stock, mine did and they were around 70 cents each. Or if you're into fasteners, check out the Breslin locking fastener. They're pretty cool but they go for about $5 each.
