New Water Pump and GREEN Coolant
#22
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As usual choco your logic is absurd. Yes surely the coolant that GM AND Chrysler use in their vehicles is at fault for your water pump going out
. Before you freak out Chrysler doesn't call it dexcool but it is chemically exactly the same makeup.
Go educate yourself http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/maint/dexcool/
edit: I have also heard that dexcool is used to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
Go educate yourself http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/maint/dexcool/
edit: I have also heard that dexcool is used to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.
#24
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Camaroz
Ugh, Taco Taco Taco... I don't suggest switching to green stuff with all that dexcool in your block coolant passages and radiator. ![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
![GTFO](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/gtfoslap.gif)
why not?
sure if you mix green coolant that has been sitting on a store shelf for over 5 years.... there will be a problem...
but its been a long long long time since the major brand "green coolants" have not been a "mix with any color" formula.
plus, with the help of a $7 Tfitting hose kit... you can reverse flush your whole cooling system in under 10 mins...
entire job of waterpump and flush should take a competent mechanic about a half hour...
a beginner home mechanic, under an hour..
and a LS1 enthusiast whos done it before, about 15mins... most of that spent waiting for the coolant flush.
#25
That's what she said...
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Dexcool didn't make your water pump go out chief. I had stock dexcool gunked up to hell with the stock pump in my car when I got it at 85k. Now it's got nearly 130k STILL running dexcool with the STOCK WATER PUMP, and it works perfect.
80,000 people here, and 79,900 run dexcool with no problems whatsoever.
#26
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Modern green coolants are almost all (except the cheapest) compatible and even recommended for aluminum engines.
Dexcool instructions state when you add non-Dexcool to Dexcool you lose the extended fill properties. That's about it. It won't turn to acid or blow up. While my Dexcool prior to first change wasn't as bad as some users claim, I can say that I've never seen chunky green coolant.
An individual should not claim, based upon HIS/HER experience with Dexcool, that anybody saying anything to the contrary is a liar, a fool, or is stupid.
I would like to point all of you to Google to read what comes up when you search on Dexcool +problems. The 19,200 pages should keep you busy for a while. Expecially the ones about the class action lawsuits.
While I don't always agree with Chaco, and he pulls his sword out way too fast, I don't believe buggin' him about getting his water pump done is justified. I'm sure we've all made a choice to get something done instead of doing it ourselves.
Dexcool instructions state when you add non-Dexcool to Dexcool you lose the extended fill properties. That's about it. It won't turn to acid or blow up. While my Dexcool prior to first change wasn't as bad as some users claim, I can say that I've never seen chunky green coolant.
An individual should not claim, based upon HIS/HER experience with Dexcool, that anybody saying anything to the contrary is a liar, a fool, or is stupid.
I would like to point all of you to Google to read what comes up when you search on Dexcool +problems. The 19,200 pages should keep you busy for a while. Expecially the ones about the class action lawsuits.
While I don't always agree with Chaco, and he pulls his sword out way too fast, I don't believe buggin' him about getting his water pump done is justified. I'm sure we've all made a choice to get something done instead of doing it ourselves.
#28
Tech Resident
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
well, my car's all screwed to hell.
i must have gotten a bad water pump or something because it won't stop overheating. replaced the thermostat, still overheating. i just spent the last hour at the shop watching my car beating the **** out of itself
according to the ODBII scanner, the temps saw 252*. seems a little excessive. at least it MIGHT be the pump.
so now i'm out 3 hours of labor, a new thermostat and like 4 gallons of wasted green coolant, and the car is in worse shape than when i brought it there. the car has never overheated before. all that was wrong was a slowly leaking water pump. now the car may as well be undrivable.
yay to my luck. someone's got it out for me today. while at the shop, a little panel with a screw on it fell out of the ceiling and came like 4 inches from konking me in the head. granted the thing weight half a pound, but it's out of principle. everything's fucked.
bah
i must have gotten a bad water pump or something because it won't stop overheating. replaced the thermostat, still overheating. i just spent the last hour at the shop watching my car beating the **** out of itself
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
so now i'm out 3 hours of labor, a new thermostat and like 4 gallons of wasted green coolant, and the car is in worse shape than when i brought it there. the car has never overheated before. all that was wrong was a slowly leaking water pump. now the car may as well be undrivable.
yay to my luck. someone's got it out for me today. while at the shop, a little panel with a screw on it fell out of the ceiling and came like 4 inches from konking me in the head. granted the thing weight half a pound, but it's out of principle. everything's fucked.
bah
![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
#30
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vancouver,[KITSILANO].B.C. Canada *WestCoast*
Posts: 8,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Thumbs up](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif)
Originally Posted by Luna
As usual choco your logic is absurd. Yes surely the coolant that GM AND Chrysler use in their vehicles is at fault for your water pump going out
. Before you freak out Chrysler doesn't call it dexcool but it is chemically exactly the same makeup.
Go educate yourself http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/maint/dexcool/
edit: I have also heard that dexcool is used to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
Go educate yourself http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/maint/dexcool/
edit: I have also heard that dexcool is used to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.
![The Judge](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_judge.gif)
#32
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your waterpump may have been the sympton and not the cause. I spent a lot of time researching coolants, and I have switched all my cars over to Dexcool (at least my older cars, the BMW gets BMW coolant and the Jeep gets the Chrysler flavor). I have also since gone into both the blocks and the radiators with a borescope to look at them, you could eat off the internal cooling passages. Dexcool must be kept full.
There are some good technical articles over on the "IMCOOL" web site that were put together by GM and Texaco at the time that discusses the mid-90's sludging issues. One of the unfortunate things with stating that a coolant is good for 100K miles is most people think that is the first time you look at it and never even bother to open the hood and check the level.
There are some good technical articles over on the "IMCOOL" web site that were put together by GM and Texaco at the time that discusses the mid-90's sludging issues. One of the unfortunate things with stating that a coolant is good for 100K miles is most people think that is the first time you look at it and never even bother to open the hood and check the level.
#34
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by chadtx01
I dont know man, that weird. Maybe it had something to do with the rasp.
Originally Posted by Luna
jiminy jillickers batman maybe its because you didn't use the REQUIRED COOLANT!
Just maybe... Just maybe! If that board hit you on the head it would knock the stupid out and wake up the smart.
#35
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Camaroz
I don't know whether to be adult about this and say awww that's mean leave the guy alone his cars fucked up... But then I remember it's Choco!
Just maybe... Just maybe! If that board hit you on the head it would knock the stupid out and wake up the smart.
Just maybe... Just maybe! If that board hit you on the head it would knock the stupid out and wake up the smart.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
#37
10 Second Club
iTrader: (41)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The dexcool is fine,unless you mix it with green. Then you will end up with a kind of gooey sludge in the system. The dexcool is meant for cars with aluminum blocks and should be kept in your ls1. If you dont want dexcool MAKE SURE you flush ALL the dexcool out of the system before you fill it with green coolant, otherwise you will end up with problems
#40
That's what she said...
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
well, my car's all screwed to hell.
i must have gotten a bad water pump or something because it won't stop overheating. replaced the thermostat, still overheating. i just spent the last hour at the shop watching my car beating the **** out of itself
according to the ODBII scanner, the temps saw 252*. seems a little excessive. at least it MIGHT be the pump.
so now i'm out 3 hours of labor, a new thermostat and like 4 gallons of wasted green coolant, and the car is in worse shape than when i brought it there. the car has never overheated before. all that was wrong was a slowly leaking water pump. now the car may as well be undrivable.
yay to my luck. someone's got it out for me today. while at the shop, a little panel with a screw on it fell out of the ceiling and came like 4 inches from konking me in the head. granted the thing weight half a pound, but it's out of principle. everything's fucked.
bah![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
i must have gotten a bad water pump or something because it won't stop overheating. replaced the thermostat, still overheating. i just spent the last hour at the shop watching my car beating the **** out of itself
![Nono](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/nono.gif)
so now i'm out 3 hours of labor, a new thermostat and like 4 gallons of wasted green coolant, and the car is in worse shape than when i brought it there. the car has never overheated before. all that was wrong was a slowly leaking water pump. now the car may as well be undrivable.
yay to my luck. someone's got it out for me today. while at the shop, a little panel with a screw on it fell out of the ceiling and came like 4 inches from konking me in the head. granted the thing weight half a pound, but it's out of principle. everything's fucked.
bah
![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
You just need to start it up cold with the cap off, stand next to it adding water a little at a time untill it's full. It may take a while, and the water may try to bubble out of the cap at times, but it's not full yet. I've found squeezing the radiator hose speeds this process. When it starts to come out of the cap, screw the cap on, then test the waters before removing it agian.
Don't beat yourself up (too much), if the pump was leaking from the weep hole, then it needs to be replaced.