ARP harmonic bolt.
04-08-2007, 05:52 PM
#22
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Galveston, TX
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tainted
**** 240lbs... i weight 120lbs 6 foot 2 skinny weak *** pale as milk boy im gonna need some help
math dictates you need to hang on a 2 foot bar, and you'll have your 240 ft/lbs.
04-08-2007, 09:03 PM
#23
bump for confusion
Once the pulley is resting on the hub, you use the arp bolt to get it started...then take it out and use the stock one to torque it down to 240lbs, then you take that out and put the arp bolt back in and torque it down to 190lbs?????????
Once the pulley is resting on the hub, you use the arp bolt to get it started...then take it out and use the stock one to torque it down to 240lbs, then you take that out and put the arp bolt back in and torque it down to 190lbs?????????
04-08-2007, 09:22 PM
#24
Wow! You guys are talking in circles here!
You need a bolt that's LONGER THAN STOCK to pull the pulley on a bit, you can also use a threaded rod with washers and a nut (see first page). Once that bolt pulls it on a good bit, you put the old crank bolt back in and seat the pulley. Then you remove the old crank bolt again and insert the ARP bolt. You then torque it down to 240 ft-lbs. Since the ARP bolt isn't a stretch type, you can probably just skip the second step and use the ARP to pull it the rest of the way.
The 37 ft-lbs + 140* method is for a stock crank bolt, which are "torque to yield" units. You "stretch" them to the right spec, which makes them junk after the first use. This is the same reason that the OEM head bolts are only good for one use.
PS - Putting the pulley in the oven on 300* for 15 minutes or so makes it slide on like buttah.
You need a bolt that's LONGER THAN STOCK to pull the pulley on a bit, you can also use a threaded rod with washers and a nut (see first page). Once that bolt pulls it on a good bit, you put the old crank bolt back in and seat the pulley. Then you remove the old crank bolt again and insert the ARP bolt. You then torque it down to 240 ft-lbs. Since the ARP bolt isn't a stretch type, you can probably just skip the second step and use the ARP to pull it the rest of the way.
The 37 ft-lbs + 140* method is for a stock crank bolt, which are "torque to yield" units. You "stretch" them to the right spec, which makes them junk after the first use. This is the same reason that the OEM head bolts are only good for one use.
PS - Putting the pulley in the oven on 300* for 15 minutes or so makes it slide on like buttah.
