Broke the AC line doing cam swap
04-11-2007, 01:58 AM
#2
You need to pull a vacuum to remove ambient air from the system. Yes you can add freon without pulling a vacuum. If you jump the low pressure switch the compressor will pull a vacuum enough to suck anything in.
The oil in the system will pull moisture right out of the air and hold it, it'll never cool well if you don't pull a vacuum. Hope you taped the lines shut when they broke.
The oil in the system will pull moisture right out of the air and hold it, it'll never cool well if you don't pull a vacuum. Hope you taped the lines shut when they broke.
04-11-2007, 02:10 AM
#4
Just connect a gauge manifold set and a vacuum pump to the system and let it run as long as possible. it will help to start after the engine has run the heat will help.
When you have a good vacuum start the car, turn the a/c on high, close the manifold valves, turn off and disconnect the vacuum pump, connect a can of 134a to the center hose, turn it upside down, purge the line, open the low side. The compressor won't run until you get some pressure in it.
When you have a good vacuum start the car, turn the a/c on high, close the manifold valves, turn off and disconnect the vacuum pump, connect a can of 134a to the center hose, turn it upside down, purge the line, open the low side. The compressor won't run until you get some pressure in it.
04-11-2007, 11:08 AM
#7
You should evacuate the system for 15 min and then let it stand for 30 min's to make sure you don't have any leaks.
After you have evacuated the system for 15 min, turn off the pump and close the valves. Then watch the vacuum for 30 min, the vacuum reading should not change (15 or 16 in), if it does you most likely have a leak, fix that before you add freon.
A trick I use is to use a Hair dryer to slowly heat the freon can once it start to be pulled into the system.. this will assist by putting more pressure in the can as it start to empty and you can fully empty almost all of the freon from the can.
Warning....This is just warm to the touch only, not HOT ! Do not use a open flame or heat gun..
After you have evacuated the system for 15 min, turn off the pump and close the valves. Then watch the vacuum for 30 min, the vacuum reading should not change (15 or 16 in), if it does you most likely have a leak, fix that before you add freon.
A trick I use is to use a Hair dryer to slowly heat the freon can once it start to be pulled into the system.. this will assist by putting more pressure in the can as it start to empty and you can fully empty almost all of the freon from the can.
Warning....This is just warm to the touch only, not HOT ! Do not use a open flame or heat gun..
Trending Topics
04-11-2007, 11:30 AM
#8
I'm an HVAC/R tech.
Watching the gauge for a leak is a waste of time. The only leak the gauge will detect is a large leak. The correct way to test for leaks is to pressurize it with nitrogen and bubble check the joints.
The correct way to pull a vacuum is to use a digital micron gauge, you can run the pump 15 minutes, close the gauges, make sure the micron gauge is steady. A micron gauge is far more accurate than the manifold gauge.
For a DIY'r I would just run the vacuum pump for as long as possible, and charge it. Bubble testing is optional especially on the hose that was just changed. If it runs out of freon you're out less than $20. You can go from there.
Watching the gauge for a leak is a waste of time. The only leak the gauge will detect is a large leak. The correct way to test for leaks is to pressurize it with nitrogen and bubble check the joints.
The correct way to pull a vacuum is to use a digital micron gauge, you can run the pump 15 minutes, close the gauges, make sure the micron gauge is steady. A micron gauge is far more accurate than the manifold gauge.
For a DIY'r I would just run the vacuum pump for as long as possible, and charge it. Bubble testing is optional especially on the hose that was just changed. If it runs out of freon you're out less than $20. You can go from there.
Originally Posted by bczee
You should evacuate the system for 15 min and then let it stand for 30 min's to make sure you don't have any leaks.
After you have evacuated the system for 15 min, turn off the pump and close the valves. Then watch the vacuum for 30 min, the vacuum reading should not change (15 or 16 in), if it does you most likely have a leak, fix that before you add freon.
A trick I use is to use a Hair dryer to slowly heat the freon can once it start to be pulled into the system.. this will assist by putting more pressure in the can as it start to empty and you can fully empty almost all of the freon from the can.
Warning....This is just warm to the touch only, not HOT ! Do not use a open flame or heat gun..
After you have evacuated the system for 15 min, turn off the pump and close the valves. Then watch the vacuum for 30 min, the vacuum reading should not change (15 or 16 in), if it does you most likely have a leak, fix that before you add freon.
A trick I use is to use a Hair dryer to slowly heat the freon can once it start to be pulled into the system.. this will assist by putting more pressure in the can as it start to empty and you can fully empty almost all of the freon from the can.
Warning....This is just warm to the touch only, not HOT ! Do not use a open flame or heat gun..
04-11-2007, 03:27 PM
#10
Originally Posted by 89Formulaws6
if you were a havc tech you'd also know freon isn't r134a is duponts name for r12 
just bustin your ***** man
just bustin your ***** man
YOU try telling someone about SUVA 134A, or better yet 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane. This place is confusing enough 
04-11-2007, 03:33 PM
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Houston/Florida.Currently FL
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i used to work for an aircondition company and i used 34A i think it was and ill tell you that was the COLDEST A/C ive ever felt, sense it was meant for houses its got a different chemical in it to cool a larger area quicker... and a small car is perfect... nothing to really do with your problem but thought ide throw that in here lol
04-11-2007, 04:04 PM
#13
Originally Posted by NataSS Inc
AC = Dead weight. Not to mention its parasitic when its turned on. Just get rid of the whole sytem. Just roll down the windows!
Sorry no real tech to add.
Sorry no real tech to add.
Maybe it's not needed for someone living in WA. But some of us like to keep it.
04-11-2007, 04:26 PM
#14
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Houston/Florida.Currently FL
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i live in FL and i only use my A/C the 10 minuts im waiting in my car to catch the boat for work... i always ride windows down... someone want to buy an A/C?
