Long story short .... I just installed my 30# SVO injectors and to make it easy reinstalling the fuel rail I also removed the drivers side metal rear fuel rail stop tab. Upon reinstalltion and preparing to torque the two intake manifold bolts holding the metal tab down I decided to check the other bolts' torque starting at 44 in./lbs. as specified in the Service Manual. Was I ever shocked.....

Starting at #1 (middle bolt) with the torque wrench, it went a full 1/3 turn before it clicked at only 44 in./lbs <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> This was basically the same situation for all of the bolts! When I stepped it up to the final 89 in./lbs., the bolts almost went a full 2/3 more additional turn <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> for a total of ~1 full turn!!!

I was in absolute disbelief! Had I not been so picky and triple checked the torque values when I installed the intake manifold 4 months ago I would never believe that it was torqued properly or even retorqued after I installed it.

When I orginally installed the manifold I used anti-seize on the threads and they were perfectly clean. I reused my old intake gaskets when I installed the intake since they appeared to be perfect (my motor only had ~ 11K). How is this possible after I did a hot retorque the first time???????

Bottom line, you may want to check your bolts to!

 

The manual says to use loctite. That might be the problem with your install.

ERic

 

I'm sorry, I said anti-seize above but you're right Wizkid, it's really Locktite Blue that I used now that I look at the tube!

 

hahaha Ok, now, you have my attention. I didn't use locktite last time. I remembered right after I got them all tightened up. DOH!

So I am giving it a few weeks and going to check them. I will check them tommorrow.

That's a good heads up.

Eric

 

You should have used the brand new gaskets I sold you! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />
All "captured o-ring" type gaskets seem to shrink or something over time, mark your bolts and see if they are actually loosening...check back in another 4 months <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

What gaskets are needed for the ls6 intake? I got a used one sitting here to be put on soon and I wasn't aware that I needed gaskets.

 

They are talking about the 8 individual gaskets on the bottom side of the intake for the intake ports where they meet the head.

I am going to check my bolts today. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Eric

 

-Joseph-, that was my original plan (to use the new gaskets), however, I am putting a set of fully ported heads on within a month or so and thought that I could squeak by with the originals until then (since "everybody was doing it this way") but I guess not!

 

So are we supposed to use loctite blue???

I installed my manifold the other day, I've checked the bolts twice now and they are still tight. I didn't use loctite or anything, because nobody told me to.

 

I checked my bolts and they had lost torque. So I retightened them. That is weird...

Yes, the manual says to use locktite. It is blue in a red tube. The kind for vibrations and that can be taken loose with hand tools. The weak locktite.

ERic

 

Guys,
The intake manifold material (nylon6-6) can cold flow. This means you cannot rely on it to hold bolt torque. You really need locktite or something similar...