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Poly mounts

Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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Default Poly mounts

I figured I see this topic brought up a good bit in this section so I'd ask here first. I am going to order poly motor mounts tomorrow, I have absolutely had it with the banging and ****. I'm ripping the headers off, changing gaskets, blocking off AIR, etc... full 9 yards. So the question is now, what kind of trans mount? Right now there is a stock one that was replaced about a year ago almost to the day. It was about 15k miles ago and bone stock, now cammed, bolt ons, etc. Should I replace that too? If so, with which one? I can deal with some interior vibrations, after all the TDs aren't exactly quiet. Thanks!

-J
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:41 PM
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I installed prothane poly motor mounts and tranny mount at the same time. With TD's you probably wont even notice the vibrations. And yes the mounts made a huge difference on how much my motor would torqe to the side when increasing the rpm's. The trany mount is very simple to install.

-William
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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Thank you, yea I remember helping my friend with his on his LT1. Any hints or advice?

-J
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Ive got a poly mount from autozone... they sell them as a upgrade... only like $30...
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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Do a poly tranny mount and while your there be sure to get a good look at your torque arm bushing which mounts the t/a to the driver side of the t56. Here are a few tips to help you doing your mmounts:

1. Be sure to completley unbolt your a/c and alternator and move them forward atleast 5 inches. Don't disconnect any lines on the a/c they are under high pressure! Be careful with the "exciter wire" on the back of the alternator because its easy to break.

2. Don't even hesistate to pull your headers because its just easier with them out of the way.

3. Have a pry bar! 2 foot minimum!

4. When your trying to line up your new mounts with the pedestals in order to get the big bolts back through on each side, undo the pedestals and move them around to get it centered rather than trying to pry around the 500 or 600 lb ls1/t56!

5. Be sure you have a good electric drill handy when you drill out the rivets on the clamshells.

6. Take your time and hand thread the 4 bolts for each clamshell when re-attaching them to the block. This is your block you working with and its not cheap. Hand thread them atleast 3 or 4 turns and if you want you some penetrating oil.

7. Be sure you have the motor as high up as possible when you are doing this. (My intake manifold was nearly touching the bottom of the cowl.

8. I tried many methods and it seems that having the tranny mount losely connected held the tail end of everything centered.

9. I did one at a time rather than trying to center it all at once.

10. Be patient and feel free to PM me because I'm on tech like 3 times a day.

Good luck...

Josh
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:23 AM
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Awesome thanks for the pointers. I will be getting new GM exhaust gaskets anyhow so I have full intention of taking the headers off, or at least dropping them (is that enough you think?). This time around my friend and his compressor is helping me so hopefully the headers will be little more than a joke to take on and off (knock on wood)

-J
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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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they are a pain to get the two main bolts back in because they do not flex,but worth it i dont even notice the vibration.
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Old Jun 27, 2007 | 03:20 PM
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Thanks! Anyone know if just unbolting the headers and letting them drop to the ground but not removing them from the car will be enough clearance? I really dont want to have to get the car all the way up there again...

-J
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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Bump... got the parts gonna tear into it tomorrow morning. As for the trans mount, I've heard that there are ridges that need to be grounded down? It's the prothane mount, any hints on that? Thank you.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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Note to self. In my next life, do them when I do headers Holy hell
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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ya the install sucks but its worth it. good luck man... i feel your pain
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