View Poll Results: Which mod next?
Kooks headers
15
32.61%
Other headers
19
41.30%
UD pulley
0
0%
Exhaust (what kind/why)
1
2.17%
Suspension (what kind why)
3
6.52%
Other (please specify)
2
4.35%
Stripper
6
13.04%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll
My next mod
My next mod PLEASE COMMENT First of all I have the mods in my sig (under Z28). I am finally financially ready to move up in hp, and am wondering what should be next. Financially stable meaning roughly $1k to work with. I don't want to dig into the engine yet. When that happens I would like to do it all at once (heads, cam, etc). I would like only best of the best parts, becuase I only want to do this once. I will be going with a Mamofied Fast 90 with NW 90TB, and wanted to know what setup would best fit that induction system.
I was thinking Kooks headers, but will have clearance issues due to the Eibach 2" drop? Then was thinking more free flowing exhaust but am rather partial to my SLP single side. Also thinking Under Drive pulley. Thought about suspension as well, such as sway bars, etc., but for now I would really like more power.
What does everyone think? I know everyone sees these threads all the time, but please help a fellow LS1'er out. I've blown too much money with stupid upgrades that haven't worked, and am ready to do it right.
Please give a guess as to about how much per mod as well.
I will add any other options to poll that people toss out there.
Also I am waiting for N2O until I have everything built, so at this point that is not an option.
Thank you very much
I was thinking Kooks headers, but will have clearance issues due to the Eibach 2" drop? Then was thinking more free flowing exhaust but am rather partial to my SLP single side. Also thinking Under Drive pulley. Thought about suspension as well, such as sway bars, etc., but for now I would really like more power.
What does everyone think? I know everyone sees these threads all the time, but please help a fellow LS1'er out. I've blown too much money with stupid upgrades that haven't worked, and am ready to do it right.
Please give a guess as to about how much per mod as well.
I will add any other options to poll that people toss out there.
Also I am waiting for N2O until I have everything built, so at this point that is not an option.
Thank you very much
Last edited by MikeD101898; Jun 26, 2007 at 06:41 PM.
Originally Posted by shoemike
something you left out that i think would be a great mod is some kind of tuning tool and software and a wideband.
Thank you for your input though.
About how large (or small) are the gains from Kooks compared to Pacesetters?
Money is only a concern for right now, it should not be an issue later on in the build, so I really do not want to skimp somewhere.
My overall goals are 550-600rwhp NA and 650-700 on N2O
Money is only a concern for right now, it should not be an issue later on in the build, so I really do not want to skimp somewhere.
My overall goals are 550-600rwhp NA and 650-700 on N2O
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by MikeD101898
About how large (or small) are the gains from Kooks compared to Pacesetters?
Money is only a concern for right now, it should not be an issue later on in the build, so I really do not want to skimp somewhere.
My overall goals are 550-600rwhp NA and 650-700 on N2O
Money is only a concern for right now, it should not be an issue later on in the build, so I really do not want to skimp somewhere.
My overall goals are 550-600rwhp NA and 650-700 on N2O
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Launching!
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: College Station, TX
You're already well above 300hp...keep that car on all 4. Get grip, don't rip. Power to the pavement. Get some Konis under that car. SA or DA... You did have a chassis shop straighten your frame before you put on the subframe connectors right? Don't forget some LCAs and relocation brackets. A nice torque arm (plus mount relocation) and panhard bar and you'll notice some professional handling. Add some 17x11's all around for some serious traction and you'll have a serious street/track car. Make sure you get everything adjustable. Tuning your suspension is better than being stuck with it.
i think you need to re-examine your goals here....making that much power NA is going to take alot
i also thinking throwing over 1k$ at a intake set-up when your not going to be doing your internals is not such a good idea, thats alot of money that can go other places and in the end make more power....
to reach the power on motor your looking for it might be best to increase your cubes
i would vote for a full exhaust setup....because other then that your getting way ahead of yourself...
finally the gains with kooks over pacesetter are negible if that
i also thinking throwing over 1k$ at a intake set-up when your not going to be doing your internals is not such a good idea, thats alot of money that can go other places and in the end make more power....
to reach the power on motor your looking for it might be best to increase your cubes
i would vote for a full exhaust setup....because other then that your getting way ahead of yourself...
finally the gains with kooks over pacesetter are negible if that
Thank you for all the comments so far.
Maybe I should have stated my thoughts before starting all this. I would like to go with heads, cam (228 230ish), intake, TB, UD pulley, headers, exhaust, rod/main bolts, rear end, fuel, (500-550ish), then N20 (600-700ish), with suspension mods as needed. Also other small "this and that" type stuff I know will be needed, but figured this will be most of it.
So with doing so I know the best of the best will be needed. Therefore I really didn't want to skimp on any parts. I also only want to do this once, and have it be as reliable as possible.
Maybe I should have stated my thoughts before starting all this. I would like to go with heads, cam (228 230ish), intake, TB, UD pulley, headers, exhaust, rod/main bolts, rear end, fuel, (500-550ish), then N20 (600-700ish), with suspension mods as needed. Also other small "this and that" type stuff I know will be needed, but figured this will be most of it.
So with doing so I know the best of the best will be needed. Therefore I really didn't want to skimp on any parts. I also only want to do this once, and have it be as reliable as possible.
Originally Posted by staringback05
your going to need a bigger cam then that and some really good heads to make anywhere near 550 but i wish you the best of luck
you might want to look into going bigger CID...like a 383 stroker kit or the like....cost about 3k$....
thus you'll have more power from stroking it, be able to run that cam and heads, and it being forged youll be able to run a bigger shot of no2.....
thus you'll have more power from stroking it, be able to run that cam and heads, and it being forged youll be able to run a bigger shot of no2.....
Originally Posted by staringback05
you might want to look into going bigger CID...like a 383 stroker kit or the like....cost about 3k$....
thus you'll have more power from stroking it, be able to run that cam and heads, and it being forged youll be able to run a bigger shot of no2.....
thus you'll have more power from stroking it, be able to run that cam and heads, and it being forged youll be able to run a bigger shot of no2.....
This stroker route is a whole new ball game for me.
550RWHP is going to be a stretch on a 346. 500rwhp is doable, search for Pat G's recent thread on the recipe. I don't know the flow characteristics of the SLP single side, but don't ditch that just for duals. I love duals, but if that sounds anything like the Dual/Dual, just add a cutout and be done with your exhaust (with LTs, of course). Do some suspension work too. I never bought into it with my last f-body, but this time around, I did LTs, LCA, PHB at the same time and it was a great improvement. Car is nice and planted, gets great traction EVERYWHERE in the RPM range. What good is power if you can't put it to the ground. I would hold off on the 90/90 setup until you get at LEAST a cam, if not heads/cam, JMO. As for headers, LTs are LTs are LTs... power gains from one over the other would be neglible IMO in a bolt on car. If you go big cam + heads later on, stepped or straight 7/8 headers might be helpful for the top end.
In short, with a stroker, you have all those cubes to "eat up" the big cam... meaning, what might be unstreetable or unfriendly street manners in a 346 could be right at home in a 408. Good luck in your quest.
-J
In short, with a stroker, you have all those cubes to "eat up" the big cam... meaning, what might be unstreetable or unfriendly street manners in a 346 could be right at home in a 408. Good luck in your quest.
-J
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
i vote longtubes, but not kooks. if you're looking for stainless, get QTP's or ARH's. both of them are a better performing header for significantly less money. another header worth looking into are the XS stainless headers being sold by a sponsor. while ARH and QTP will outperform, you can't beat the price of ~$450.
my vote goes particularly to QTP's with a custom y-pipe or true duals. they're the best looking and likely best performing header on the market for a lot less than kooks.
my vote goes particularly to QTP's with a custom y-pipe or true duals. they're the best looking and likely best performing header on the market for a lot less than kooks.
if you decide to go bigger cubes like was mentioned (and for 500+rwhp N/A and drivability is probably your best option) I would say do the suspension mods. setup your car to handle the power now, i think much of ne thing you could do to the engine now that would swap over to the bigger cubes would be over kill and wouldn't net you much gain as of right now...
someone mentiond a cutout, that might be a good route to keep your car quiet when you want, and you could upgrade the headers and use them on the new build. QTP's are top of the line.
I think the Kooks are 1 7/8th? maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in if that would be benefitional when you move into larger cubes, but for the car as it sits would not gain you ne thing over other head choices (which was already mentioned a couple times i guess)
If you want to start looking into the cubes build up, check out some of the sponsors here, they have great prices on 402/408 inch long blocks, which should get you where you wanna be.
Another option to obtain 500 rwhp and maintain drivabilty would be to go forced induction, but you stated your goals as N/A.
someone mentiond a cutout, that might be a good route to keep your car quiet when you want, and you could upgrade the headers and use them on the new build. QTP's are top of the line.
I think the Kooks are 1 7/8th? maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in if that would be benefitional when you move into larger cubes, but for the car as it sits would not gain you ne thing over other head choices (which was already mentioned a couple times i guess)
If you want to start looking into the cubes build up, check out some of the sponsors here, they have great prices on 402/408 inch long blocks, which should get you where you wanna be.
Another option to obtain 500 rwhp and maintain drivabilty would be to go forced induction, but you stated your goals as N/A.
Originally Posted by lastcall190
550RWHP is going to be a stretch on a 346. 500rwhp is doable, search for Pat G's recent thread on the recipe. I don't know the flow characteristics of the SLP single side, but don't ditch that just for duals. I love duals, but if that sounds anything like the Dual/Dual, just add a cutout and be done with your exhaust (with LTs, of course). Do some suspension work too. I never bought into it with my last f-body, but this time around, I did LTs, LCA, PHB at the same time and it was a great improvement. Car is nice and planted, gets great traction EVERYWHERE in the RPM range. What good is power if you can't put it to the ground. I would hold off on the 90/90 setup until you get at LEAST a cam, if not heads/cam, JMO. As for headers, LTs are LTs are LTs... power gains from one over the other would be neglible IMO in a bolt on car. If you go big cam + heads later on, stepped or straight 7/8 headers might be helpful for the top end.
In short, with a stroker, you have all those cubes to "eat up" the big cam... meaning, what might be unstreetable or unfriendly street manners in a 346 could be right at home in a 408. Good luck in your quest.
-J
In short, with a stroker, you have all those cubes to "eat up" the big cam... meaning, what might be unstreetable or unfriendly street manners in a 346 could be right at home in a 408. Good luck in your quest.
-J
The more I think about it the more I would like to stick with my LS1. If that means topping out at 500 rwhp NA than that's fine. I can reach 600 with juice.
I am subscribed to Pat G's "recipe". As well as the "So you wanna go fast" sticky, and many other build threads. I have researched a ton, and would like the final input on my remaining questions. Pat's thread is a really good one. I would suggest that to anybody.
I am not sure of how my SLP single side flows either, the previous owner put that on.
I would like to do suspension (besides springs that I already have), but do not know much about that area, and at this point I do more highway pulls than digs.
I am holding off onm the FAST setup until I build the rest of my motor.
If there is any gian over 5 rwhp I would be willing to spend more for a better header. Knowing that I will be building more soon.