My Review of BBK Throttle Body
#1
My Review of BBK Throttle Body
I know there are a lot of bad reciews about the BBK so I decided to post mine since It's positive. I installed it today, very easy. Used a throttle body bypass kit and noticed that the passenger side left coolant tube on the stock throttle body is bigger than the BBK. This might be why some people have had leaking problems since the factory hose is just a little too big. Now that it's on I have to say I'm pleased. The pedal feel is just like stock, not sticky like some have complained about. In fact a new polished throttle bracket comes with the kit that replaces the stock one. It roars louder upon acceleration, yes there is a slight whistle, Throttle response seems to have improved but I have no dynos or track times yet. I chose BBK because I couldn't have any down time with the car and If I didn't like it I could always send in my stock one to be ported later. All and all I think it was worth the $360 I paid for it new. It looks great and seems to have increased performance with no negative affects. Sorry for the long post but I just wanted to give the full review. Keep in mind this is just my opinion all you BBK Bashers.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
$360.00...holy shnikes batman. Thats a shytload to pay for a tb. I hope its gold plated, talks dirty, and massages you for those long trips.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
Got a set of QTP's on the way as far as headers go. I wouldn't put MACS on my car If you gave them to me.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
$360 huh? That's pretty damned pricey. Thank you for the nice review though. Get some dyno numbers and track times to back up your post. We all know that SOTP feel doesn't amount to squat. My car feels extra fast after a car wash. We need some track times!
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
Well if you didn't have a core to get the stock throttle body ported $300+ is what you would be paying.
In fact TR $150 to do the port work and $200 for the core. You do the math. (NOT A BASH TOWARDS TR)
Riddler now you can sell the core for $200 and pay a total of $160 for you NEW BBK TB.
In the end the cost is the same.
In fact TR $150 to do the port work and $200 for the core. You do the math. (NOT A BASH TOWARDS TR)
Riddler now you can sell the core for $200 and pay a total of $160 for you NEW BBK TB.
In the end the cost is the same.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
Well if you didn't have a core to get the stock throttle body ported $300+ is what you would be paying.
In fact TR $150 to do the port work and $200 for the core. You do the math. (NOT A BASH TOWARDS TR)
Riddler now you can sell the core for $200 and pay a total of $160 for you NEW BBK TB.
In the end the cost is the same.
In fact TR $150 to do the port work and $200 for the core. You do the math. (NOT A BASH TOWARDS TR)
Riddler now you can sell the core for $200 and pay a total of $160 for you NEW BBK TB.
In the end the cost is the same.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
I got my BBK about a year ago and it was just over $400. I had idle problems at stoplights. It would crap out on me. Come to find out, after looking at my stock TB, there was no hole in the BBK unit for idle air to pass through. So, I had to drill a hole in the thing to get it to idle. Now its fine
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
Well if you didn't have a core to get the stock throttle body ported $300+ is what you would be paying.
In fact TR $150 to do the port work and $200 for the core. You do the math. (NOT A BASH TOWARDS TR)
Riddler now you can sell the core for $200 and pay a total of $160 for you NEW BBK TB.
In the end the cost is the same.
In fact TR $150 to do the port work and $200 for the core. You do the math. (NOT A BASH TOWARDS TR)
Riddler now you can sell the core for $200 and pay a total of $160 for you NEW BBK TB.
In the end the cost is the same.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
I bought my BBK used for $20 - really. How could I turn it down for that price? The guy was so disappointed with it. I felt the spring was a bit stiff making it hard to modulate the pedal. The cam arm also broke while driving.
If you felt like fixing it, you could have had mine for the cost of shipping Of course, I now have a Shaner S2 truck throttle-body, and I felt that was wasted money as well.
If you felt like fixing it, you could have had mine for the cost of shipping Of course, I now have a Shaner S2 truck throttle-body, and I felt that was wasted money as well.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
I got my BBK about a year ago and it was just over $400. I had idle problems at stoplights. It would crap out on me. Come to find out, after looking at my stock TB, there was no hole in the BBK unit for idle air to pass through. So, I had to drill a hole in the thing to get it to idle. Now its fine
I absolutly love my BBK. People always bad mouth it but very few people who actually HAVE it, have anything bad to say about it. I got my TB off of a guy who was parting his car out so I got it for $200 (kill deal). $350 is kind of high when you compare it to a ported TB, but it is much better quality piece than the factory (its a solid slug of cast aluminum and is bored out and has a solid brass butterfly).
If you listen to the "stories" that get tossed around, its almost like "I knew this guy, who knew a guy, who knew a guy, who read an artical that said the BBK causes your windshield to fall out if you use it...."
To get rid of that whistle, take some sand paper and radious the edge of the intake (where the tb mounts). The intake is a little smaller so the air is tumbuling over the edge. With a little work there will be little to no sound.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
Camaro Guy
What kind of gains did you get?
I am in the market for a TB. I am leaning for a Baur but if the BBK is an overall better piece than the stock I don't mind shelling out the cash.
What kind of gains did you get?
I am in the market for a TB. I am leaning for a Baur but if the BBK is an overall better piece than the stock I don't mind shelling out the cash.
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Re: My Review of BBK Throttle Body
can't give you a "number" value....its yet to get on a dyno....
as far as butt-o-meter......both myself, my best friend, and my dad all road in it after the TB was installed. I felt the car pull harder and it reved faster (first time I EVER hit the 6800 RPM limiter....scared the **** out of me).
Neither my dad or my friend knew I had installed it but they both asked what I had changed because it felt stronger.
$$$ for hp, the Baur (or other ported TBs) will win out.....they are 1/3 the price.....
The BBK is a really hefty/strong (my personal fav...) piece but you have to be willing to set it up..
1) check to make sure it does not stick. Most don't have this problem but every once and a while one will get down the line that does. They are made really close tollerance to seal but sometimes they are just a tad bit tight. If it sticks, hold it up to the light (with it closed) and you will see light around the "open" section and thus be able to see where it is tight. Take a little 250 grit sand paper and just work that edge of the butterfly to give it some clearance.
2) polish the intake lip (intake manifold) so it has a radius edge vs. the sharp edge (you will see what I mean if you bolt the TB on and then look through it with the throttle at 100%)
3) you will need to have AutoTap (or equivilant) to read your IAC count in order to drill the idle hole size (there is no hole as it comes from the factory)....start 2 or 3 number drills smaller than what the factory hole is and then work up from there (you can tipically skip one size each time .... ex: had a #30 bit....go to a #28...then a #26...then a #24...etc...)
it takes a little time of final adjustment (like playing with a brand new cab...) to make it perfect but once done, it is a really good mod.
Chris
as far as butt-o-meter......both myself, my best friend, and my dad all road in it after the TB was installed. I felt the car pull harder and it reved faster (first time I EVER hit the 6800 RPM limiter....scared the **** out of me).
Neither my dad or my friend knew I had installed it but they both asked what I had changed because it felt stronger.
$$$ for hp, the Baur (or other ported TBs) will win out.....they are 1/3 the price.....
The BBK is a really hefty/strong (my personal fav...) piece but you have to be willing to set it up..
1) check to make sure it does not stick. Most don't have this problem but every once and a while one will get down the line that does. They are made really close tollerance to seal but sometimes they are just a tad bit tight. If it sticks, hold it up to the light (with it closed) and you will see light around the "open" section and thus be able to see where it is tight. Take a little 250 grit sand paper and just work that edge of the butterfly to give it some clearance.
2) polish the intake lip (intake manifold) so it has a radius edge vs. the sharp edge (you will see what I mean if you bolt the TB on and then look through it with the throttle at 100%)
3) you will need to have AutoTap (or equivilant) to read your IAC count in order to drill the idle hole size (there is no hole as it comes from the factory)....start 2 or 3 number drills smaller than what the factory hole is and then work up from there (you can tipically skip one size each time .... ex: had a #30 bit....go to a #28...then a #26...then a #24...etc...)
it takes a little time of final adjustment (like playing with a brand new cab...) to make it perfect but once done, it is a really good mod.
Chris
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can't give you a "number" value....its yet to get on a dyno....
as far as butt-o-meter......both myself, my best friend, and my dad all road in it after the TB was installed. I felt the car pull harder and it reved faster (first time I EVER hit the 6800 RPM limiter....scared the **** out of me).
Neither my dad or my friend knew I had installed it but they both asked what I had changed because it felt stronger.
$$$ for hp, the Baur (or other ported TBs) will win out.....they are 1/3 the price.....
The BBK is a really hefty/strong (my personal fav...) piece but you have to be willing to set it up..
1) check to make sure it does not stick. Most don't have this problem but every once and a while one will get down the line that does. They are made really close tollerance to seal but sometimes they are just a tad bit tight. If it sticks, hold it up to the light (with it closed) and you will see light around the "open" section and thus be able to see where it is tight. Take a little 250 grit sand paper and just work that edge of the butterfly to give it some clearance.
2) polish the intake lip (intake manifold) so it has a radius edge vs. the sharp edge (you will see what I mean if you bolt the TB on and then look through it with the throttle at 100%)
3) you will need to have AutoTap (or equivilant) to read your IAC count in order to drill the idle hole size (there is no hole as it comes from the factory)....start 2 or 3 number drills smaller than what the factory hole is and then work up from there (you can tipically skip one size each time .... ex: had a #30 bit....go to a #28...then a #26...then a #24...etc...)
it takes a little time of final adjustment (like playing with a brand new cab...) to make it perfect but once done, it is a really good mod.
Chris
as far as butt-o-meter......both myself, my best friend, and my dad all road in it after the TB was installed. I felt the car pull harder and it reved faster (first time I EVER hit the 6800 RPM limiter....scared the **** out of me).
Neither my dad or my friend knew I had installed it but they both asked what I had changed because it felt stronger.
$$$ for hp, the Baur (or other ported TBs) will win out.....they are 1/3 the price.....
The BBK is a really hefty/strong (my personal fav...) piece but you have to be willing to set it up..
1) check to make sure it does not stick. Most don't have this problem but every once and a while one will get down the line that does. They are made really close tollerance to seal but sometimes they are just a tad bit tight. If it sticks, hold it up to the light (with it closed) and you will see light around the "open" section and thus be able to see where it is tight. Take a little 250 grit sand paper and just work that edge of the butterfly to give it some clearance.
2) polish the intake lip (intake manifold) so it has a radius edge vs. the sharp edge (you will see what I mean if you bolt the TB on and then look through it with the throttle at 100%)
3) you will need to have AutoTap (or equivilant) to read your IAC count in order to drill the idle hole size (there is no hole as it comes from the factory)....start 2 or 3 number drills smaller than what the factory hole is and then work up from there (you can tipically skip one size each time .... ex: had a #30 bit....go to a #28...then a #26...then a #24...etc...)
it takes a little time of final adjustment (like playing with a brand new cab...) to make it perfect but once done, it is a really good mod.
Chris
#20
I have purchased 3 BBK tb's on ebay.Two for me and one for my friend.I have had all of them ported and polished by Shaner.I have also ported a couple of stock tb's.I like the BBK'S and have had good luck with them.The spring tension is different on each one.My
friend likes the one with the strongest spring tension.I like the middle one.To use ported ones you have to have the supporting mods.(Heads,headers,cam,etc.).I drilled a hole in
mine like the stock tb's(step drilled).
I have seen posts where people don't like them,but I have pretty good results
with them.
friend likes the one with the strongest spring tension.I like the middle one.To use ported ones you have to have the supporting mods.(Heads,headers,cam,etc.).I drilled a hole in
mine like the stock tb's(step drilled).
I have seen posts where people don't like them,but I have pretty good results
with them.
Last edited by transwiz; 09-03-2009 at 02:16 AM.