View Poll Results: For performance, which one: Free Ram Air Mod or Seal Airbox to Hood?
Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll
Free Ram Air Mod??
08-28-2007, 01:27 PM
#21
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hahahaha
Originally Posted by Arc00TA
It means you shouldn't let your filter get dirty because they cost approximately $50,000.00 a piece and you don't ever want to clean/replace it. Also, the quantum physics behind ram air are so complex that planet earth actually gives up at 80mph, right before the flames shoot out from your tires and you travel back in time.
good lord this stuff has been beaten to deaththe fra makes one little spot on your filter dirty....hell IMO that just shows that it works.......
all ram air setups do the same thing"make the air allittle cooler"**** to get an actual "RAM"air affect you would have to be going close too 200mph......
08-28-2007, 07:40 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by jag42420
Since you already have the WS6 hood, debaffle and seal it. It's much cheaper, and does not pull in the hot engine compartment air. The FRA mod allows more airflow than stock, but unless you keep moving you pull in hot air from the engine compartment which will minimize any gain. Your sealed hood pulls in cooler air whether you're stopped or moving. The best power comes from the cool air coming in from the outside of the engine compartment.
Look at the old BGRA gains http://www.geocities.com/brian98rama..._Air_Pics.html from sealing the hood (+2mph and -.2 in the quarter). These made much better power than anything else out there. They don't sell the BGRA anymore, but you can make your own. Here's what I did, using a piece of lexan from Lowes and some weatherstripping. http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...42420/JGRA.jpg Cost me $25 and took about an hour to make. There are better ones out there, like the one here http://guerragroup.com/2000TA.htm , but you can make your own out of several different materials and still save $200 and get excellent results.
I wouldn't consider FTRA or SSRA while I had a SS/WS6 hood available. Without the hood, definitely. FRA I wouldn't consider either way.
Look at the old BGRA gains http://www.geocities.com/brian98rama..._Air_Pics.html from sealing the hood (+2mph and -.2 in the quarter). These made much better power than anything else out there. They don't sell the BGRA anymore, but you can make your own. Here's what I did, using a piece of lexan from Lowes and some weatherstripping. http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...42420/JGRA.jpg Cost me $25 and took about an hour to make. There are better ones out there, like the one here http://guerragroup.com/2000TA.htm , but you can make your own out of several different materials and still save $200 and get excellent results.
I wouldn't consider FTRA or SSRA while I had a SS/WS6 hood available. Without the hood, definitely. FRA I wouldn't consider either way.
08-29-2007, 12:45 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by rsodeputy61
wtf does that mean???
read it.
it is black and white.
don't weather seal
do free mod.
oh and a couple pst below your it said don't do free mod cuase it will suck warm engine heat when you are just sitting there and you will lose power.
thank god i race standing still
that makes no Fu**ing sense. who cause about the power when i am sitting there.
08-29-2007, 12:59 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
how don't you understand it.
read it.
it is black and white.
don't weather seal
do free mod.
oh and a couple pst below your it said don't do free mod cuase it will suck warm engine heat when you are just sitting there and you will lose power.
thank god i race standing still
that makes no Fu**ing sense. who cause about the power when i am sitting there.
read it.
it is black and white.
don't weather seal
do free mod.
oh and a couple pst below your it said don't do free mod cuase it will suck warm engine heat when you are just sitting there and you will lose power.
thank god i race standing still
that makes no Fu**ing sense. who cause about the power when i am sitting there.
yea, it's black and white and makes no fukin' sense...your ram air theory at 80 mph is idiotic. also, u obviously don't understand iat's either. do you think the high iat's decrease the instant your wheels move?
08-30-2007, 01:12 AM
#26
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I've been reading through a few of the "Ram Air" threads here and just thought I would throw in some opinions that I've formed.
First, it seems that Ram Air is being defined as a system which has the ability to pressurize and anything less would be a Cold Air system. I can buy that but I would only say that means every factory billed version of Ram Air ever would not meet that definition. Just a thought.
Second, following on that theme, there is a reason that true Ram Air systems don't exist from the factory. The chance that water could enter the engine. Of course that could happen to many non-Ram Air vehicles in extreme circumstances but the increased likelihood would be unacceptable to the manufactures.
Third, I've read a little about how the WS6 style hood is not really capable of Ram Air because of the air flow. Ok, aerodynamics would certainly show an airstream flow up and over the hood but I would still think that the agressive angle of the nostrils would still certainly show a significant amount of air flow through the nostrils. I imagine this could be measured if someone had the right equipment.
Fourth, I personally have decided that a completely sealed system is too risky for a daily driver in the conditions I occasionally see. I've been stationed in TN and KS over the last four years and there can be extreme weather conditions there. Massive rain and huge puddles. Any power gains from a sealed system, whether from the underneath or the hood to the airbox, seem minimal when compared to the prospect of hydrolocking the engine.
Sixth, I also wonder about removing the baffling from the WS6 hood. Even with baffling in place I would think that the volume of air entering the inlet would exit through the outlet and drain holes.
Which leads me to my final conclusion. It would seem to me that sealing the hood to the air box and plugging the drain holes in the hood, leaving the baffling in place, would be the best compromise. In the case that a significant ammount of water did enter the hood I would think that the combination of baffles, area around the hood latch, and drainage area at the bottom of the air box could handle that. I think you get the best combination or cold air and possible Ram Air effect (maybe it's not pressurized but the air is certainly directed there as quick as it can be used).
Just my thoughts with regards to a daily driver. If it's a strip car I say go with the true Ram Air setups.
First, it seems that Ram Air is being defined as a system which has the ability to pressurize and anything less would be a Cold Air system. I can buy that but I would only say that means every factory billed version of Ram Air ever would not meet that definition. Just a thought.
Second, following on that theme, there is a reason that true Ram Air systems don't exist from the factory. The chance that water could enter the engine. Of course that could happen to many non-Ram Air vehicles in extreme circumstances but the increased likelihood would be unacceptable to the manufactures.
Third, I've read a little about how the WS6 style hood is not really capable of Ram Air because of the air flow. Ok, aerodynamics would certainly show an airstream flow up and over the hood but I would still think that the agressive angle of the nostrils would still certainly show a significant amount of air flow through the nostrils. I imagine this could be measured if someone had the right equipment.
Fourth, I personally have decided that a completely sealed system is too risky for a daily driver in the conditions I occasionally see. I've been stationed in TN and KS over the last four years and there can be extreme weather conditions there. Massive rain and huge puddles. Any power gains from a sealed system, whether from the underneath or the hood to the airbox, seem minimal when compared to the prospect of hydrolocking the engine.
Sixth, I also wonder about removing the baffling from the WS6 hood. Even with baffling in place I would think that the volume of air entering the inlet would exit through the outlet and drain holes.
Which leads me to my final conclusion. It would seem to me that sealing the hood to the air box and plugging the drain holes in the hood, leaving the baffling in place, would be the best compromise. In the case that a significant ammount of water did enter the hood I would think that the combination of baffles, area around the hood latch, and drainage area at the bottom of the air box could handle that. I think you get the best combination or cold air and possible Ram Air effect (maybe it's not pressurized but the air is certainly directed there as quick as it can be used).
Just my thoughts with regards to a daily driver. If it's a strip car I say go with the true Ram Air setups.
08-30-2007, 07:25 AM
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True, no real factory ram air exists. It should be called a CAI intake, and be sealed better in the LS1's case. There are 2 baffles in the WS6 hood. The first deflects the rain down, and I left mine. The second I removed. I wasn't comfortable removing both, some are. I have never heard of anyone ever having a problem with both removed and sealed, but I didn't want to be the first...
08-30-2007, 09:09 AM
#28
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The air you get "for free" is not the air you want. It's
hot from the radiator and the pavement, especially at
idle or slow street airspeeds and it'll push your IATs
up big time, won't come back to ambient air temp
within the timescale of the 1/4 mile.
If you are concerned with water and chunks, some
screen in place of baffles will take care of that, maybe
add or enhance drain holes behind it (my SS hood has
a sort of "sump" and holes right before the lid slot).
I had a SLP CAI, which is basically the FRA mode plus
a couple pounds of stainless steel heat absorber, and
IAT readings were worse (rise above ambient) than the
stock hood and zero difference in MAP reading which is
your measure of effectiveness for airflow at the end of
the day. I reworked the ducting to pull from above the
divider panel and it's now much better with double the
"slot area" and no direct chunk-path.
With that hood, definitely debaffle, maybe add a little
splash / bug screen out of sight and you'll have it good.
Maybe you can find some stiff stainless mesh and black
it out.
hot from the radiator and the pavement, especially at
idle or slow street airspeeds and it'll push your IATs
up big time, won't come back to ambient air temp
within the timescale of the 1/4 mile.
If you are concerned with water and chunks, some
screen in place of baffles will take care of that, maybe
add or enhance drain holes behind it (my SS hood has
a sort of "sump" and holes right before the lid slot).
I had a SLP CAI, which is basically the FRA mode plus
a couple pounds of stainless steel heat absorber, and
IAT readings were worse (rise above ambient) than the
stock hood and zero difference in MAP reading which is
your measure of effectiveness for airflow at the end of
the day. I reworked the ducting to pull from above the
divider panel and it's now much better with double the
"slot area" and no direct chunk-path.
With that hood, definitely debaffle, maybe add a little
splash / bug screen out of sight and you'll have it good.
Maybe you can find some stiff stainless mesh and black
it out.
08-31-2007, 10:47 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by 2KWS6TA
Third, I've read a little about how the WS6 style hood is not really capable of Ram Air because of the air flow. Ok, aerodynamics would certainly show an airstream flow up and over the hood but I would still think that the agressive angle of the nostrils would still certainly show a significant amount of air flow through the nostrils. I imagine this could be measured if someone had the right equipment.
08-31-2007, 11:35 PM
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wow
Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
this is what i mean about the 80 mph thing. ******* air just can't get there. called air flow.
09-01-2007, 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by colby72olds
why dont you just get a lid and smooth bellow, that would be alot easier. Pretty much same power too.
09-02-2007, 01:10 PM
#34
Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
lol .......
good lord this stuff has been beaten to deaththe fra makes one little spot on your filter dirty....hell IMO that just shows that it works.......
all ram air setups do the same thing"make the air allittle cooler"**** to get an actual "RAM"air affect you would have to be going close too 200mph......
good lord this stuff has been beaten to deaththe fra makes one little spot on your filter dirty....hell IMO that just shows that it works.......
all ram air setups do the same thing"make the air allittle cooler"**** to get an actual "RAM"air affect you would have to be going close too 200mph......
09-02-2007, 09:53 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by rsodeputy61
i'm surprised you even know how to operate a computer. so you're saying that with a ws6 hood debaffled, the faster you go the less air you're gonna get through the nostrils. i guess at 81 mph, the car's gonna choke dead from no air. somebody please help this guy out!!
hey dumbass. yeah that is how it works. that is why every sleak beak is slow after 80.
NO, that ain't how it works. it just sucks air from else where.
i need the help
you are mis understand.
as you get faster the more the air goes over the hood and misses the nostrils.
understand.
if not call slp. i got my info from them
they did a test on it. this is why the came up with the cold air intake system.
buy slp kit.
and race with it , then with out it.
you speed will increase in the last 1/8 mile do to more air.
09-02-2007, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
hey dumbass. yeah that is how it works. that is why every sleak beak is slow after 80.
NO, that ain't how it works. it just sucks air from else where.
i need the help
you are mis understand.
as you get faster the more the air goes over the hood and misses the nostrils.
understand.
if not call slp. i got my info from them
they did a test on it. this is why the came up with the cold air intake system.
buy slp kit.
and race with it , then with out it.
you speed will increase in the last 1/8 mile do to more air.
NO, that ain't how it works. it just sucks air from else where.
i need the help
you are mis understand.
as you get faster the more the air goes over the hood and misses the nostrils.
understand.
if not call slp. i got my info from them
they did a test on it. this is why the came up with the cold air intake system.
buy slp kit.
and race with it , then with out it.
you speed will increase in the last 1/8 mile do to more air.
oh, and no i'm not "mis understand".....idiot
09-18-2007, 10:21 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by rsodeputy61
I had a piece of 3/4" mdf fabbed up today after debaffling my hood and am going to install it tommorrow with 1/2" weatherstripping for a good seal. Should work great...
09-19-2007, 12:38 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by gotspeed13
Did you get this installed? How was the fit?