lol .......

good lord this stuff has been beaten to deaththe fra makes one little spot on your filter dirty....hell IMO that just shows that it works.......

all ram air setups do the same thing"make the air allittle cooler"**** to get an actual "RAM"air affect you would have to be going close too 200mph......

 

Thanks for the info!! I'm gonna definitely go this route and try to make something like Patrick G. Was wondering what that black piece is inside your hood nostril? Is that a rain guard you made?

 

That's the front baffle. I left it to deflect rain. I removed the rear one.

 

how don't you understand it.
read it.
it is black and white.
don't weather seal
do free mod.

oh and a couple pst below your it said don't do free mod cuase it will suck warm engine heat when you are just sitting there and you will lose power.

thank god i race standing still
that makes no Fu**ing sense. who cause about the power when i am sitting there.

 

yea, it's black and white and makes no fukin' sense...your ram air theory at 80 mph is idiotic. also, u obviously don't understand iat's either. do you think the high iat's decrease the instant your wheels move?

 

I've been reading through a few of the "Ram Air" threads here and just thought I would throw in some opinions that I've formed.

First, it seems that Ram Air is being defined as a system which has the ability to pressurize and anything less would be a Cold Air system. I can buy that but I would only say that means every factory billed version of Ram Air ever would not meet that definition. Just a thought.

Second, following on that theme, there is a reason that true Ram Air systems don't exist from the factory. The chance that water could enter the engine. Of course that could happen to many non-Ram Air vehicles in extreme circumstances but the increased likelihood would be unacceptable to the manufactures.

Third, I've read a little about how the WS6 style hood is not really capable of Ram Air because of the air flow. Ok, aerodynamics would certainly show an airstream flow up and over the hood but I would still think that the agressive angle of the nostrils would still certainly show a significant amount of air flow through the nostrils. I imagine this could be measured if someone had the right equipment.

Fourth, I personally have decided that a completely sealed system is too risky for a daily driver in the conditions I occasionally see. I've been stationed in TN and KS over the last four years and there can be extreme weather conditions there. Massive rain and huge puddles. Any power gains from a sealed system, whether from the underneath or the hood to the airbox, seem minimal when compared to the prospect of hydrolocking the engine.

Sixth, I also wonder about removing the baffling from the WS6 hood. Even with baffling in place I would think that the volume of air entering the inlet would exit through the outlet and drain holes.

Which leads me to my final conclusion. It would seem to me that sealing the hood to the air box and plugging the drain holes in the hood, leaving the baffling in place, would be the best compromise. In the case that a significant ammount of water did enter the hood I would think that the combination of baffles, area around the hood latch, and drainage area at the bottom of the air box could handle that. I think you get the best combination or cold air and possible Ram Air effect (maybe it's not pressurized but the air is certainly directed there as quick as it can be used).

Just my thoughts with regards to a daily driver. If it's a strip car I say go with the true Ram Air setups.

 

True, no real factory ram air exists. It should be called a CAI intake, and be sealed better in the LS1's case. There are 2 baffles in the WS6 hood. The first deflects the rain down, and I left mine. The second I removed. I wasn't comfortable removing both, some are. I have never heard of anyone ever having a problem with both removed and sealed, but I didn't want to be the first...

 

The air you get "for free" is not the air you want. It's
hot from the radiator and the pavement, especially at
idle or slow street airspeeds and it'll push your IATs
up big time, won't come back to ambient air temp
within the timescale of the 1/4 mile.

If you are concerned with water and chunks, some
screen in place of baffles will take care of that, maybe
add or enhance drain holes behind it (my SS hood has
a sort of "sump" and holes right before the lid slot).

I had a SLP CAI, which is basically the FRA mode plus
a couple pounds of stainless steel heat absorber, and
IAT readings were worse (rise above ambient) than the
stock hood and zero difference in MAP reading which is
your measure of effectiveness for airflow at the end of
the day. I reworked the ducting to pull from above the
divider panel and it's now much better with double the
"slot area" and no direct chunk-path.

With that hood, definitely debaffle, maybe add a little
splash / bug screen out of sight and you'll have it good.
Maybe you can find some stiff stainless mesh and black
it out.

 

this is what i mean about the 80 mph thing. ******* air just can't get there. called air flow.

 

i'm surprised you even know how to operate a computer. so you're saying that with a ws6 hood debaffled, the faster you go the less air you're gonna get through the nostrils. i guess at 81 mph, the car's gonna choke dead from no air. somebody please help this guy out!!

 

wow that one picture of Patrick's seal is nice and clean... wonder how he made it?

 

why dont you just get a lid and smooth bellow, that would be alot easier. Pretty much same power too.

 

I have a lid and from what is posted on this site a smooth bellow does nothing. However, neither of these have anything to do with this thread. The thread was to establish the best method of getting the coolest air in, without buying one of those kits (ssra, ftra, etc). After reading a million posts and the looking at the old BGRA, I decided on debaffling the hood because with my hood, it's the obvious choice. I had a piece of 3/4" mdf fabbed up today after debaffling my hood and am going to install it tommorrow with 1/2" weatherstripping for a good seal. Should work great...

 

Not true... And you can see the FRA is pretty much useless, just a de-baffled hood is better than that.

 

Wow. That's a the first time I've seen that chart... What is JAAM? And is anyone aware of any IAT chart comparisions out there?

 

hey dumbass. yeah that is how it works. that is why every sleak beak is slow after 80.

NO, that ain't how it works. it just sucks air from else where.
i need the help
you are mis understand.
as you get faster the more the air goes over the hood and misses the nostrils.
understand.

if not call slp. i got my info from them
they did a test on it. this is why the came up with the cold air intake system.
buy slp kit.
and race with it , then with out it.
you speed will increase in the last 1/8 mile do to more air.

 

wrong again fukface!! see above chart... oh, and no i'm not "mis understand".....idiot

 

Did you get this installed? How was the fit?

 

was too thick, got tired of fooling with it and ended up ordering 2 of the BGRA gaskets and am waiting for them to arrive....

 

Do you think a 1/2" mdf and 1/2" weatherstrip would fit OK.