Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

YIKES!

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

You have an a4... If you want to go fast buy a damn stall.....IT WILL BE THE BEST THING YOU HAVE EVER DONE!! .5+ off of your 1/4mile times 3500+...... I recommend vig or yank... Ive ran both i perfer vig and go big>>>ive got a 3800 and i will never go back...

ChocoTaco369

Well, he says it pulls harder up top, but it's a dog down low since the tune is so far off. So I assume it'll be a pig around town. Good thing I'm putting in the 3.42's to balance it out, and it's good to know the mechanic is riding my car into the ground I'll be getting a dynotune in the near future anyway. My plans for the car are almost done.

1.) Ported throttle body is next on the list
2.) Dynotune

And that's it. Any other mods will be appearance or suspension for a long time.
I don't go to the track much at all. A stall is useless to me as it'll only make daily driving it less fun. 99% of my car's time is spent under 2500 rpm's. I don't go WOT much at all, maybe once or twice a week, so a stall will do nothing for me but make the car less driveable. Also, I really don't need anything wearing my transmission faster. I'm already on the fence about deleting torque management. The point of the headers and 3.42's is to make the car more peppy down low an up high. A stall will hurt my efficiency at high rpm's and also make it less peppy down low. Unless your foot's to the floor, I don't see the stall making the car more fun to drive. I also don't want to buy new tires, either.

If I were to get a stall, I'd probably get an SS3200 at max. But that'll be in the far future. In fact, if I were to start modding my tranny, I'd probably do a 4L80E swap.

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

STALL bro!!!!! a 3500 will drive like stock with the right lock up speed... and turst me ITS allot funner to drive a stalled car.... once you slam it and it flashes you wont go backkkk at least go for a ride in a car with a nice size stall... I was going 12.0 on stock internals with mac mids and a 7.8 in the 1/8th with a 3500 stall...

I do realize what your saying when you dont drag race it at the track i dont go to the track often ither but i still would never drive an a4 without atleast a 3000 stall its no fun at all imo... and when you say you dont want to f up anything in your tranny what do you meen? shure you could rebuild it for around 1500 and have something that can handle the weight and as much hp as you want to though at it... but theres guys going 11.0s on stock internals with just a stall on the stock tranny on a 175shot with a 4000 stall it is what is i guess hes been doing it for A long time his name is 01-ram air if you wanna kno.

ChocoTaco369

I'm going to have to find someone with a stall so I can testdrive their car first before I pass any judgment. I can just tell you a stall isn't in my immediate future. I'm already spending $2500 on my car just for this stuff.

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

Lol i edited my post re read it. a new vig is around 750 or so. A used one for around 400 im shure.

But im shure you will realy like the gears and the lts i remember when i put my 4.10s in my 10bolt and now ive got a danas60 but i remembered how much i loved it.....

ChocoTaco369

I'm not doing this for ET's. I couldn't care less what my ET is. I'm doing everything for the fun factor. I don't want to do a stall because the torque multiplication beats the crap out of the stock tranny, and I can't afford a new one or a rebuild. Also, it beats the crap out of the rear and I can't afford a new one of them, either

I also would never buy a used converter. I have a motto of "do it right or don't do it at all." Buying a used converter and sticking it in a stock transmission and running the stock rear sitting on street tires isn't "doing it right." Doing it right costs way too much money I don't have.

Of course, if you'd like to send 4 grand my way, I'd make it a reality

Reject

iTrader: (24)

hey where did you get those gears for the 2 series for 100 bucks? i want to fkk it up myself installing them and was wondering where they were for that cheap!!

the one ting on my friends QTP formula was we had to loosen the driver side motor mount and tilt the engine to kick it in there, the other side was like a 40 year old prostitue, just flopped right in there.

ChocoTaco369

I got everything from Speed Inc. The gears were $220. The install kit was $100.

I was told the passenger's side slipped right in like nothing. He said the driver's side "was a bitch", but all he had to remove was the oil pan drain plug. He said if he had a quarter of an inch more, it wouldn't have happened. So now I gotta pay for an oil change when I have 24 quarts of GC 0W-30 sitting in my garage I feel stupid as removing the oil filter is a common problem, I should have had the foresight to stick 6 quarts of oil and a filter in there just in case Even though the problem in this case was the drain plug and not the filter, I still should have put the oil in there. I had everything else in my car for goodness sakes...

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

True but you will be suprised how long that rear is going to last on an a4 expecialy a stalled a4. good luck with your ventures....

Reject

iTrader: (24)

OWNED!!! lol i knew QTP headers had that driverside problem!

and SELF_OWNAGE! i got all excited when i heard the gears were just 100 bucks

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

That is some thin oil, what is the advantage?? I would be worried about spining a berring. I have allways used 10w30 since new im now at 550rwhp unlocked on a 125 shot and 401 rwhp cam only unlocked and 75k on the clock. Im just wondering why?

ChocoTaco369

I hope you're right. The 10-bolt seems to be hit or miss. Some people ride it into the 10's, other blow it close to stock, even with an auto
That's a common misconception. GC 0W-30 is rather thick oil. For example, it's significantly thicker than Mobil 1 5W-30. Here's another interesting tidbit of information: Mobil 1 10W-30 is thinner than Mobil 1 5W-30.

The 0W is the cold-flow property. That's how freely it flows at freezing temperatures. In other words, a 0W, when in a freezing environment, will be able to start up under more severe conditions. It will also be able to get into all the nooks and crannies of the motor faster than a 5W or 10W, and it will offer better startup protection than both a 5W and 10W oil.

GC 0W-30 is probably the best oil out there for the LS1 on average. If only it was easier to get It's actually almost as thick as a 40 weight oil at operating temps.

ChocoTaco369

I wouldn't call it a problem. The QTP's are a longer header than most other longtubes. If you put a set of QTP's next to a set of Pacesetters, you'd gasp. The Pacesetters would look like a toy. They're not nearly as long as a set of QTP's which is one reason why QTP's will outperform Pacesetters significantly. QTP's are also equal length, unlike most other headers. If you want the biggest gains, the headers have to be a little bit longer, and this will make them a tad bit harder to install in most cases. If all you have to do is remove the oil pan drain plug, that is a small price to pay.

You read the price for the install kit eh? Hehe...

mattraypharbor

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=ChocoTaco369]I hope you're right. The 10-bolt seems to be hit or miss. Some people ride it into the 10's, other blow it close to stock, even with an auto



I went 1.5 60s on my 10bolt tell i blew out the spyder gears and bought a strange engineering danas60....

cbrracer

iTrader: (10)

Any word on the gears yet Choco ??

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

You will love the sound of headers....[even with yucky cats]..HAHAHAHA!!!. [just removed mine last week...again..had them on for 10 days..emissions]

ChocoTaco369

Yup, just got the car back today. Put my Richmond 3.42's in. Sadly, there was a SMALL chip on the tooth of the ring. Even so, it is AS QUIET OR QUIETER than stock. There is NO gear whine.

Like I said, Richmond's aren't any louder than any other gear. People just suck at installing them.

Cost me $275 for the gear install, $300 for the header install. Not bad at all. The custom catted-y with awesome cats came out to over $50 less than the prefabricated QTP y-pipe. Imagine that

ChocoTaco369

Yucky cats? Trust me, you wouldn't know the difference between no cats and the cats I bought. They're the best cats on the market and with my open cutout it is loud and BEYOND RAW, like there's no cats at all.

Even with the cutout wide open, there is NO RASP thanks to the awesome merge in my y-pipe.


I got a lot more pics, but that'll follow in another thread. I have to make a better video (the one I have is crap) and I need a few more ground clearance shots. I can tell you I have NO y-pipe banging, NO rasp and much BETTER ground clearance than STOCK. I'm very excited with the quality of work I got for the awesome deal I got.

I can tell you, the open cutout sounds like pure crap though It's pretty redneck I lost my cutout cap a long time ago, so I can't even cap it to see what just the Corsa sounds like. I guess I gotta ask QTP for a replacement...

My only complaint is the driver's side header is barely touching the steering column shaft and is giving me a slight vibration through my steering wheel when in Drive at idle. It needs about 1/8" of room. We're thinking about heating the primary and putting a very slight, gradual depression in it. Anyone have any suggestions?

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

looks good.... ...although the merge only makes up for the kinks in the pipe.....should have got a mandrel bent y and let the guy go from there..sounds good i bet though, huh.!!!! .. ...