Thermostat mod question
JR
I took the housing apart and jammed some tin foil in the housing cup holding the spring shaft. I re-assembled the therm and installed it. It works fine.
Most do it to avoid knock... even this is questionable since the fans will continue to turn on at the same temperature anyway... ...not a good solution unless you also change the temperature at which the fans turn on (LS1Edit)....
I went back to the stock therm recently and no KNOCK problems at 11.4 to 1 CR ...so I will keep the stock unit and make more power...
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Actually, it is the opposite. You will gain power with a cooler running motor. You trying to say that when I run my car across the desert my motor will be making the most power?
The reason an engine is set to run (ours in particular) at 210 degrees is because an engine is emissions effecient at higher temperatures. When you start your car in the cold, your burning more fuel and thus, creating more pollution. My point is colder air is more dense and yeilds more power, and this statement is 
Rob
..in any event, I think you may find some diverse views on whether the cooler therm will produce more power...
The vast majority of engine damage and wear is done right after start up when the engine is cold.
When you start your car in the cold, your burning more fuel and thus, creating more pollution. My point is colder air is more dense and yeilds more power, and this statement is

Rob
Your whole premise is contradictory;
You first say it will be more efficient if its running cooler, and in the same paragraph you discuss how when its cold it burns more fuel.
It is not burning more fuel, it is using more fuel but burning it less efficently because the engine isn't hot and the combustion process is shortened and incomplete, if your statement were true, the fact that colder air is more dense would mean a cold engine would burn LESS fuel instead of more.
I'm impressed; thanks...
Anyway, I went back to the stock therm after a head and cam swap. My compression is now 11.4!!!
I tought I would have pinging on pump gas but NO Problem.
I switched earlier to a low therm to avoid pinging; when I pulled the heads the carbon build up was bad. ...I think the carbon started when I installed LT headers.
Anyway, I put a LS6 valley cover on now so little or no oil is getting sucked into the intake....
PS ...a lower therm does little anyway since the CPU controls the timing of the fans anyway, right?
With the coolant running thru the throttle body, it makes the throttle body the same temperature as the engine (you don't want this if you want performance), thereby increasing the temperature of the air charge thru conduction and convection radiation transfer, this then enters the cylinder. The colder the air going into the cylinders, the higher its density is. A hot air ballon rises because its air inside is thinner than the surrounding air, thereby causing buoyancy, as everything tries to reach equilibrium, the balloon will rise till its density matches the surrounding outside air. In other terms, there are more air molecules in 1 liter of cold air than in 1 liter of hot air, more air = more efficient combustion (if the engine is at operating temperature). This is the same principle of a supercharger. More air thru the supercharger or turbo = a better burn charge, tho sometimes with more air you must use more fuel to balance the ratio, tis why you have to have bigger injectors for turbo and supercharger use if you have BIG BOOST.
BTW this is what ferrets do if ya don't watch out fer em:
Most do it to avoid knock... even this is questionable since the fans will continue to turn on at the same temperature anyway... ...not a good solution unless you also change the temperature at which the fans turn on (LS1Edit)....
I went back to the stock therm recently and no KNOCK problems at 11.4 to 1 CR ...so I will keep the stock unit and make more power...


