Thermostat mod question
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You can buy the simms at Martha Stewarts's place (K-Mart). In my case, it was Alcoa - tin foil.
I took the housing apart and jammed some tin foil in the housing cup holding the spring shaft. I re-assembled the therm and installed it. It works fine.
I took the housing apart and jammed some tin foil in the housing cup holding the spring shaft. I re-assembled the therm and installed it. It works fine.
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You realize, of course, that you loose power when the motor runs cooler, right.
Most do it to avoid knock... even this is questionable since the fans will continue to turn on at the same temperature anyway... ...not a good solution unless you also change the temperature at which the fans turn on (LS1Edit)....
I went back to the stock therm recently and no KNOCK problems at 11.4 to 1 CR ...so I will keep the stock unit and make more power...
Most do it to avoid knock... even this is questionable since the fans will continue to turn on at the same temperature anyway... ...not a good solution unless you also change the temperature at which the fans turn on (LS1Edit)....
I went back to the stock therm recently and no KNOCK problems at 11.4 to 1 CR ...so I will keep the stock unit and make more power...
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#11
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You realize, of course, that you loose power when the motor runs cooler, right.
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Rob
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If you watch nhra or ihra pro stockers, they start there cars at the very last minute and hurry up and do there burn out.... back up and stage. Ya never see any type of pro car warming up do you? hotter spark may make more power but a hotter motor is not hidden hp.
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...I thought i saw some posts on this with dyno testing showing that the stock therm was best ...
..in any event, I think you may find some diverse views on whether the cooler therm will produce more power...
..in any event, I think you may find some diverse views on whether the cooler therm will produce more power...
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These cars do loose power when they run cooler because the aluminum heads don't retain the heat from the combustion process as do iron/steel heads. Cooling down our engines results in less efficient (meaning less complete) combustion of the air/fuel charge resulting in power reduction and increased fuel usage, not to even mention anything about how the expansion rate for aluminum is much higher than for steel - this can result in certain engine parts not expanding to the full engineering design rate/size (even a couple of thousands of an inch less expansion can result in accelerated damage) because the engine is running cooler as opposed to the stock thermostat temperature. This condition can lead to increased wear from excessive friction.
The vast majority of engine damage and wear is done right after start up when the engine is cold.
When you start your car in the cold, your burning more fuel and thus, creating more pollution. My point is colder air is more dense and yeilds more power, and this statement is![Bulls#!t](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_bs.gif)
Rob
Contraire Mon Frair, tis thee that hath spread
Your whole premise is contradictory;
You first say it will be more efficient if its running cooler, and in the same paragraph you discuss how when its cold it burns more fuel.
It is not burning more fuel, it is using more fuel but burning it less efficently because the engine isn't hot and the combustion process is shortened and incomplete, if your statement were true, the fact that colder air is more dense would mean a cold engine would burn LESS fuel instead of more.
The vast majority of engine damage and wear is done right after start up when the engine is cold.
When you start your car in the cold, your burning more fuel and thus, creating more pollution. My point is colder air is more dense and yeilds more power, and this statement is
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Rob
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Your whole premise is contradictory;
You first say it will be more efficient if its running cooler, and in the same paragraph you discuss how when its cold it burns more fuel.
It is not burning more fuel, it is using more fuel but burning it less efficently because the engine isn't hot and the combustion process is shortened and incomplete, if your statement were true, the fact that colder air is more dense would mean a cold engine would burn LESS fuel instead of more.
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Weezer:
I'm impressed; thanks...
Anyway, I went back to the stock therm after a head and cam swap. My compression is now 11.4!!!
I tought I would have pinging on pump gas but NO Problem.
I switched earlier to a low therm to avoid pinging; when I pulled the heads the carbon build up was bad. ...I think the carbon started when I installed LT headers.
Anyway, I put a LS6 valley cover on now so little or no oil is getting sucked into the intake....
PS ...a lower therm does little anyway since the CPU controls the timing of the fans anyway, right?
I'm impressed; thanks...
Anyway, I went back to the stock therm after a head and cam swap. My compression is now 11.4!!!
I tought I would have pinging on pump gas but NO Problem.
I switched earlier to a low therm to avoid pinging; when I pulled the heads the carbon build up was bad. ...I think the carbon started when I installed LT headers.
Anyway, I put a LS6 valley cover on now so little or no oil is getting sucked into the intake....
PS ...a lower therm does little anyway since the CPU controls the timing of the fans anyway, right?
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Hey Weezzer, I do not want to make war here...I am trying to follow you and what you said was making sense until I read your sig- if your theroy is correct then why do the TB bypass mod? Seriously I have been debating the therm mod to do or not to...
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Hey Weezzer, I do not want to make war here...I am trying to follow you and what you said was making sense until I read your sig- if your theroy is correct then why do the TB bypass mod? Seriously I have been debating the therm mod to do or not to...
With the coolant running thru the throttle body, it makes the throttle body the same temperature as the engine (you don't want this if you want performance), thereby increasing the temperature of the air charge thru conduction and convection radiation transfer, this then enters the cylinder. The colder the air going into the cylinders, the higher its density is. A hot air ballon rises because its air inside is thinner than the surrounding air, thereby causing buoyancy, as everything tries to reach equilibrium, the balloon will rise till its density matches the surrounding outside air. In other terms, there are more air molecules in 1 liter of cold air than in 1 liter of hot air, more air = more efficient combustion (if the engine is at operating temperature). This is the same principle of a supercharger. More air thru the supercharger or turbo = a better burn charge, tho sometimes with more air you must use more fuel to balance the ratio, tis why you have to have bigger injectors for turbo and supercharger use if you have BIG BOOST.
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I've read where the best operating temp for the LS1 is around 175 degrees. Don't know if it's true or not but I recently installed a 160 degree tstat and will atap on the dyno this coming weekend to see if it helps or hurts and post my results after comparing temps with previous pulls.
#20
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You realize, of course, that you loose power when the motor runs cooler, right.
Most do it to avoid knock... even this is questionable since the fans will continue to turn on at the same temperature anyway... ...not a good solution unless you also change the temperature at which the fans turn on (LS1Edit)....
I went back to the stock therm recently and no KNOCK problems at 11.4 to 1 CR ...so I will keep the stock unit and make more power...
Most do it to avoid knock... even this is questionable since the fans will continue to turn on at the same temperature anyway... ...not a good solution unless you also change the temperature at which the fans turn on (LS1Edit)....
I went back to the stock therm recently and no KNOCK problems at 11.4 to 1 CR ...so I will keep the stock unit and make more power...