Hello everyone, I am still sort of new to the hole LS1 deal.

I have a 1978 Chevrolet Caprice Classic, 2-door Coupe (with the Rare 1977-1979 Bubble back window) named Christine(named after the Stephen King novel/movie).

Christine is running a 1998 Trans Am LS1 (rated a 305 hp if I recall the 1998 T/A Road Tests correctly) with a Stock OEM Tune (I just have the VATS and Rear O2's disabled).

My only "Mods", (if you can even call them that since I needed them in order to do the swap) are a set of the cheapest LS1 headers available from Summit (Headman Headers). Along with a cone type Air Filter.

I am about as broke as a person can be and still own a car, so I had to reuse my TH350, 3800 stall, 2 1/2 year old hard MT Dr's, all run through my old 2 1/2' Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust system (I have dual electric cutouts but after setting outside for 2 years they don't work really) from the cars previous set up. (It sucks being broke. lol)

I was only able to afford to take the car to the track once, and only got one run. Without stalling the car up, and just leaving off the foot brake at idle I was able to get a 13.25 @ 100 mph.

I am itching for the 12's on the motor only, and was wondering what would people recommend that would be cheap (Free Mod-$350) that could help me gain the 2 tenths to brake into the 12's ?

After your recommendation that puts me in the 12's on basic motor only, what Nitrous kit would be the cheapest ($100-400) and still Safely work with a LS1 ? What brands should I stay away from, what are common Nitrous mistakes (causing engine problems) ? Will I have to upgrade my current Fuel Pump (shown in the pic below) ?



Also here is some pics of Christine (my LS1 2-door Caprice).







Thank you you all in advance for your help and support !

 

A professional tune. Not free, but for the $$ it nets a great deal of real power.

 

I have someone willing to "Tune" it for next to nothing but they use "Tunercat" and "HP Tuner" software, which I have heard is not ideal for tuning LS1's ? How much (ET or RWHP) should one expect to get on a Stock 1998 LS1 without any "mods" really ?

 

Relocate the air filter so that you won't get the wash of hot air from the rad, port your tb and get the tune.... that and leaving with some stall should put you solidly in the 12's and it's within your budget.

 

stall the car up and dont leave off idle

 

Dry shot of the juice, easy.

 

Yep. There is always nitrous. Never been a big fan but its effect is irrefuteable.

 

yea spray the bitch!!

 

If you just want the .2 though, seriously just stall it off the line.

 

cam and tune and can be had for relatively cheap

 

$ per hp ratio, n20 wins in the short run, there is always the issue of refills and if you break something. But again there are cheap kits out there but its the safety **** that saves you from a blow motor, id save your duckets for the spring.

 

If you rig the intake somehow to take in cool air (not engine bay air) and get a tune, I would think 20rwhp is reasonable. HP tuners is fine.

 

How much (ET or RWHP) should one expect to get on a Stock 1998 LS1 without any "mods" really ? Is the TB the only thing that needs Porting or do I have to change to a better MAF also then ?

Does stalling it up make that big of a difference ? (2 tenths)

What Nitrous kit would be the cheapest ($100-400) and still Safely work with a LS1 ? What brands should I stay away from, what are common Nitrous mistakes (causing engine problems) ? Will I have to upgrade my current Fuel Pump (shown in the pic below) ?



What cam brand/part# has offered the best "bank for the buck" with a otherwise Stock LS1 ? Don't you have to buy new springs and lifters when you replace the cam in a LS1 since the stock ones are too weak for the increased lift ?

A fellow LS1 owner (JoeyG who owns a Fast C5 Vette that has been in Hotrod and Carcraft countless times) has supposedly had very bad luck with HP Tuners software from what I have heard ?

Is 20 Rwhp enough to gain 2 tenths ?


Thank you all for your help and support, and for putting up with all my "noob" questions.

 

As mentioned above, the hot iat's created by drawing in higher temp air can really take a toll in terms of timing retard under some conditions. Cheap and easy and a good thing to do no matter what direction you ultimately go with the car. The ported tb won't show massive gains ( maybe 5-10 hp ) but will improve things slightly and if you keep this setup going as a budget build it will again be something of benefit and you can do it yourself for nothing. Tuning can easily net you 20 hp. Stalling it up will likley get you the desired 2 tenths all by itself....

lots of good suggestions here, it'll be down to you which way you want to take it right now

 

Don't want to hijack the thread but you've got a sweet sleeper goin on. Don't paint that sucker.

And what was your 60? Maybe use some tire softener on the tires?

 

Thank you greatly for your advice ! Is the 20 hp from tuning gains at the engine or tire ? I take it the factory LS1 computer is set up to detune the motor significantly if retuning can make such large gains, did GM do this on purpose or is the aftermarket tunes just that much more effective ?

Thank you for the kind words ! I dont plan on painting it, I like the natural "patina" that is starting to show on the car.

I had a 1.8 60ft leaving off the footbrake at idle.

 

If it helps at all, I went to the track on Friday with my basically stock '99 LS1 A4 Camaro. I got into the 12's. Here's my thread with all the details. https://ls1tech.com/forums/12-second-club/798361-a4-couple-bolt-ons-12-s.html

That's an awesome sleeper. Good luck!

 

That 20 hp is just a ballpark. It's going to vary depending upon how far off the factory tune is. But 20 crank hp might even be low. It's not so much that they are detuned but moreso that the factory tune has to be a bit conservative to account for the masses and their ability to mess things up and once you start making modifications ( even an open air filter ) it throws everything further off.

Anyways, start doing some stuff and get it back to the track end let us know when you collect that first 12 second slip with it.

 

I'd do a cam henry. You could get a brand new one for $350-400 and a GOOD cam that is. Hell a cam swap would be EASY on your car

 

Thank you for the compliment !

Wow GREAT time for having less "mods" than I have. I think part of my problem might be in using a TH350 trans while other people get to use the newer overdrive trannys with the steeper first gear ratio.

After my car hits 3rd gear it stops pulling ( kind of like if I just let off the gas all together ), is this common with other people who are running a TH350 with ther Stock LS1 setup ?