head coolant plug stuck and f@$^&d
They're meant to work on "rounded" off bolts, so I assume it would be perfect for you. Just gotta pick the one size that just barely won't fit on, tap it on, and crank that motha.
Definitely a good set to have, regardless.
Also, throw a **** ton of PB blaster on it to aid
Trending Topics
Even a propane torch could do this but takes longer.
heat the cylinder head, NOT what you are trying to remove.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Hopefully, i will be able to get the extractors on the head of the plug (its round already,,lil smaller than a dime),,,i wont be able to "tap" the extractor on per se, as there is just no room to swing anything up there,,,if anything i can try to wedge it on with a bar, etc. If this dosnt work, i may have to drop my cats and Y just to get ahold of the damn thing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,sux, as this was supposed to be a lil fun project to pass some time.
No torch in my garage, although, i know father in law has one. that may be an option i have to go to. Im hitting up Sears this afternoon for the extractors,,,,man i hope my oil temp sender dosnt go this bad.
If this doesn't .. how about grinding two sides flat and get a wrench on it...?
I would say that taking your ex manifold, spark plug and cat off to get it out of the way, would be time well spent with the amount of space you have.. and the fustration that they would cause by being in the way..
other last options.. drill a access hole in the firewall/tran tunnel... you can always get a rubber plug for it..
Good luck
im picking up a hex socket tonight too,,,will try a breakaer bar,,hopefully i will be returning more extractors tommorrow,,but we'll see how bad i can tear things up with the breaker bar before that happens.
The extractors (called bolt out at Sears) should work if i jimmy it up some more,,the plug sticks out roughly 1/4 inch and is 5/8 wide, with room all around for the socket extracter to fit.
I will post up once i get coolant in my eye
The oil sender gave me a problem with the second lil nut that holds the sender spring, and the top lil nut that holds the sender wire to the sender would not let loose of each other once i had the plumbing T piece on the car....they would just spin together,,and seemed to never stop spinning. My oil temp guage was powering up, lighted, but the needle would not move past the 140 mark,,,the bottom of the gauge (What is the oil temp at idle anyway?) So, the car went back up and instead of droppping the Y (Y-pipe is in the way of one of the nutz that hold the sedning T piece to the block),,i just got one nut out, loosened the other enough that i could spin the unit facing down so i didnt have to fight the limited space. Replaced the sender unit with the one that originaly came with my water temp and now its good as new!! I actually cracked the first sender due to that second nut kept spinning,,putting pressure on the shell with the spring,,,ouch.








