Anybody try flipping the MAF ends
The rear MAF end was smooth and didn't have a lip on it. What I am refering to is the lip where the screen would sit on the front MAF end (BTW I have a descreened MAF).
Out of curiousity I unbolted the MAF assembly and started to see if I could swap the ends around. Unfortunately I ran into some problems. These things are built dummy proof, basically it would be hard to assemble it wrong.
Problems I ran into.
1. One of the MAF ends has a pin cast into it. Just grounded it off (no biggie)
2. The MAF plastic has a U shaped fitting molded into it, again to prevent it being assembled wrong
Looks more like this ---> |____________| . I used a small saw and just cut a small slice,like a loaf of bread, and snapped it off until I removed most of it.
3. Final obstacle. The bolt pattern is offset by a little bit so you can't put the bolts right through. The MAF ends have to be redrilled.
I couldn't do step three because I didn't have a drill available. I think its also good that I wasn't able to do it as I don't have Autotap or EFIlive to see any changes, if any, that would have occured as a result of doing this.
I figured why pay to get ported MAF ends to get that lip removed when all you really have to do is just flip the ends around. Albeit with a little work.
Once I get diagnostics software I finish it up and see if there are any changes. I might be worth something, it might not but you don't know until you try.
Has anybody attempeted to do this?
It would be neat to see the difference one a flow bench. You guys would be suprised what a small restriction in fluid flow can do

Oh well.
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H2O is atmospheric. 28" means you're willing to
lose like 7% of your manifold pressure (hence
7% of horsepower) to get that 6CFM? Ptui.
I don't have 28" H2O drop across my whole inlet
tract as it is. Let alone the bellows.
I already have the epoxy and a friend is going to lend me a dremel.


