xs header question
xs header question i'm about ready to install my xs headers and i know about how some of the guys that have them had to heat up and bend the drivers side collector down a bit to clear for the y-pipe. i plan on getting custom true duals so should i take my headers to get fixed before i install them or is that something a shop can do while the headers are installed and on the lift before they run the duals? also, does anybody know if the original xs y-pipe will fit to the new style xs headers that are coming out? just wondering if there woud be any reason why they wouldn't. thanks
There was a guy who posted not too long ago that he took his DS header to a muffler shop who fixed it up for him for around $50 or something like that. I'm not sure about the original y not working on the newly designed headers, but the guy who had his DS collector angle changed to fit better used the y-pipe without a problem.
well yesturday i went to two well know shops with very good reputations and a few other muffler shops in my town and they all said that it would be impossible to fix and if they heated it up and tried to bend it, because it was stainless steel, it would break. i'm going to try another place today but it's getting very frustrating because i cant install them until this gets done and NOBODY can help me out with it! i've got an oxyacetaline torch at home and i'm thinking about trying it myself, but i'd rather not because if it does break easily like their telling me it will, i'll be screwed. another thing, one of the shops told me i should take a hammer to my floorboard where the collector touches and beat it in a little bit and cut a few inchess off the collector so i can run pipes off of it. how does this sound? sorry for the length, thanks a lot.
That's what I did. There's a thread on here somewhere about it, but here's the cliff's notes.
I cut off ~2", leaving enough for a band clamp to go on without the O2 bung getting in the way.
I created an "S" out of cut pieces of mandrel bent pipe and used that to bring down to the duals. I beat the floor up a little bit, and slid a screw clamp through a piece of heater hose, wrapping it around the exhaust where it was close to the floor.
I cut off ~2", leaving enough for a band clamp to go on without the O2 bung getting in the way.
I created an "S" out of cut pieces of mandrel bent pipe and used that to bring down to the duals. I beat the floor up a little bit, and slid a screw clamp through a piece of heater hose, wrapping it around the exhaust where it was close to the floor.
thanks for the reply, its good to know that'll work if i have to. the only problem is that i was planning on slipping my ORY onto my headers until i could get it to a shop and get my true duals run and i doubt it'll fit after i cut the collectors and with it being angles up. does anybody think it would be risky trying to heat up and bend my collector down myself or should i do like hilton did and not risk cracking my collector?
You need to have an exhaust shop cut a narrow slit from the collector about three-quarters of the way around leaving only the top portion uncut. The cut will be immediatly behind the primaries. Then it will easily bend down and close up the gap. Weld the cut closed and your set. You will end up with the tip of the collector about 1.5" below it's original position and pointed in the same direction as the primaries. Only drawback is the weld will look kinda nasty. I paid 25 bucks to have mine done and it worked perfectly.
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You need to have an exhaust shop cut a narrow slit from the collector about three-quarters of the way around leaving only the top portion uncut. The cut will be immediatly behind the primaries. Then it will easily bend down and close up the gap. Weld the cut closed and your set. You will end up with the tip of the collector about 1.5" below it's original position and pointed in the same direction as the primaries. Only drawback is the weld will look kinda nasty. I paid 25 bucks to have mine done and it worked perfectly.
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well i went ahead and put them on and i dont think its going to be a problem. the passenger side went on perfect but i'm in the process of bolting up the drivers side and all the bolts went in execpt the very far back one. the bolt just wont start and when it does, its a little crooked. i think it may be that the hole in the headers is a tad off and not lining up exactly to the bolt hole in the head. do you think i should try drilling out the header bolt hole to make it fit? thanks
Youre on the verge of stripping the threads inside the head, so be careful. i'd keep trying to get the bolt in and just make sure its lined up right. i doubt the manifold is off by enough to keep you from being able to properly line the bolt up. you can open it up a hair then just use a washer, but i dont think thats the problem.
Youre on the verge of stripping the threads inside the head, so be careful. i'd keep trying to get the bolt in and just make sure its lined up right. i doubt the manifold is off by enough to keep you from being able to properly line the bolt up. you can open it up a hair then just use a washer, but i dont think thats the problem.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
It's not a big deal. After I learned about this solution, some friends at a local shop did it to mine with the usual basic welding equipment. Sure, it's not pretty like the welds on the headers themselves, but it works.
