Ls6 intake swap
Ls6 intake swap i have read somewhere once i thought that to do the ls1 to ls6 intake swap i need some kind of different coolant tubes and plugs. is this true? and could someone post a pic of what they look like to when i go to get them I know what I'm looking for. Thanks
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No need for new coolant tubes, simply grind off the ribs on the bottom of the intake where they can interfere with the stock 98 tubes. Takes all but a few mins with a dremel.
If you don't plan on keeping EGR which many don't, then you will need a plate to block it off your exhaust manifolds and a tuner to get rid of the code.
If you don't plan on keeping EGR which many don't, then you will need a plate to block it off your exhaust manifolds and a tuner to get rid of the code.
just did my install..... i knocked off all the ribs on the bottom with a chisel and hammer..... it took 5 minutes.... to knock ALL of them off..... dont waste money on the tubes....
it came out very clean too
it came out very clean too
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
hey if you want to get the tubes thats fine i did also, go to texas speed for the coolent tubes there like 50 bucks or so and you dont have to worry about grinding of the ribs on your ls6 intake. if you have any other questions with the install just ask i did mine 2 weeks ago
hey if you want to get the tubes thats fine i did also, go to texas speed for the coolent tubes there like 50 bucks or so and you dont have to worry about grinding of the ribs on your ls6 intake. if you have any other questions with the install just ask i did mine 2 weeks ago
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
if you flip both intakes over then u see the difference, the ls1 intake has somewhat of a v groove on the bottem of it, but on the ls6 intake its completely flat. thats the reason you have to change coolent tubes when switching over is because the ls1 coolent tubes dont work with the ls6 due to it being flat on the bottem
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
oh and stingr when you do your intake swap i would pick up a set of knock sensors and go ahead and replace em, since there under your intake manifold. you dont want to get your intake on there and one of them go out.
im confused! one person says to remove ribs and the other doesnt. also, one person says no new coolant lines needed and other person says to replace them. im getting ready to do this mod and want to have all my ducks in a row sort of speak. which is it? thanks guys!
it all depends if you want to modify the intake.... or modify your stock coolant tubes..... some people dont like chopping up the intake..... however you will never be able to see the bottom of the intake and it will not hurt the resale value of the intake...... if you ever switch your intake setup you are bound to get the market value for the intake with or without the ribs!!!!
just remember to carefully scrape the foam pads off your stock intake and glue them into the factory position on the ls6 intake.... this will keep debris out from between the block and intake
Very good advice. Replace the knock sensor wiring harness too, all very easy to do and fairly cheap.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
some people grind off the ribs under the intake to make room for the stock ls1 coolent tubes, i went with the ls6 intake coolent tubes because i did not want to take the time to grind off the tabs, there like 50 bucks on texas speed. its which ever you prefer i just got the tubes for the ls6 intake cause i wanted to do it right. if have any more questions just ask
I already have a ported and polished T/b, slp lid, bellows and granatelli cold air maf. i have the ls6 intake and a set of mac mids in hand. i figure this will make it haul pretty well. I'm seriously considering doing a zex 100hp wet shot.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
well having the ls1 intake on there with the tb and the maf you have aint helping you. when you do install ur ls6 it will give you better flow and help you utilized the tb and the maf that you have. as far as the nitrous im not a big fan of it i want my car to be all motor but if you want cheap hp thats the way to go!
Everything that I am about to say are things that I have read...I havnt installed mine yet:
I chose to go with the crossover tubes for 2 reasons.
1. Thats the way they come on the vettes to why go hacking up a $350 part to save $40 so it can be how its supposed to.
2. Some also say that if you want to run nitrous it is better to have the crossover tubes as well.
Also as other said...replace the knock sensors and the wiring harness. The get corrosion and if your under there why not?
Another thing is when you take the bolts out...the last 4 (or last 2 i cant remember) will not come out all the way so some1 came up with the great idea to use clothespins to keep them up.
There is a huge post about a page or 2 back that has all this information.
I chose to go with the crossover tubes for 2 reasons.
1. Thats the way they come on the vettes to why go hacking up a $350 part to save $40 so it can be how its supposed to.
2. Some also say that if you want to run nitrous it is better to have the crossover tubes as well.
Also as other said...replace the knock sensors and the wiring harness. The get corrosion and if your under there why not?
Another thing is when you take the bolts out...the last 4 (or last 2 i cant remember) will not come out all the way so some1 came up with the great idea to use clothespins to keep them up.
There is a huge post about a page or 2 back that has all this information.
