Okay, I'm sorry if this question seems completely retarded, but here it goes anyways. I'm in the middle of installing my new FAST intake and the intake came shipped with bolts/nuts holding the intake together. When I install the intake, do I remove these and use the stock bolts to bolt the intake to the motor, or do I just remove the nuts and use the FAST bolts? Sorry, but this isn't covered in any of the paperwork they gave me...

 

You use tha fast bolts.

Don't forget to change the valley cover bolts & break off the plastic clips on the knock sensor wires.

 

Yeah, I already did the valley cover bolts. So basically I just take the nuts off the bottom of the bolts and add those nuts to my collection? They are just there to hold the intake together before installation?

 

Yes, exactly. Do not however, remove the smaller bolts at the end of the manifold.

 

No question asked because you honestly don't know the answer is a dumb question. I personally am glad you asked the question. I don't do my own car work, and wouldn't have know the answer unless you had asked it.

I'm just glad no one jumped on you for asking the question. Can't wait to hear what kind of power you pick up. Good Luck !

 

My friend and i will be installing a Fast 92 intake on his '00 Trans Am. We will be !EGR as well. This is my first intake install; so i have a couple questions:

#1 what should i be aware/cautious of? I kno about the oil sensor on the back of the stock intake, how to i NOT **** that up while taking the stock (LS1) intake off and how to i put it on the new one?

#2 the coolant line swap, he ordered the coolant lines, it is a direct swap (i.e. look at the stock ones and mimic them)? how about RTV sealant, do i need that?

#3 Fuel lines, do i need a special tool to disconnect them?

#4 Typical newb install time; i kno my way around a car, i just have never done this before

#5 He will be driving around with headers and this intake/TB installed for about a week BEFORE he can get it dyno tuned and the codes deleted; i told him he will be ok, he will, right???

I ask what I need b/c my friend does everything half-assed and he is expecting me to do all the research b/c he is lazy. So essentially im making my life easier. What else should i be aware of? Tips, tricks??? please feel free to give me advice that is NOT covered on the LS1Howto.com website (i printed out their intake swap guide as a reference).

 

CHANGE YOUR VALLEY PLATE BOLTS TO THE ONES PROVIDED!!!!!
If you haven't got them already, you'll need new intake port gaskets. I've had good luck with Felpro. The Fast intake does not come with these gaskets.
You can get the fuel line separator tool at the parts store. I'm not for sure, so don't quote me; but I think it's 5/16.
Lift the intake straight up before pulling it forward.
Be careful not to break the MAP sensor wires when you pull the intake forward.
The coolant lines will be different than stock. The two plugs go on the back of the heads and the crossover pipe goes on the front.
The front crossover pipe will have to be bent down to clear the bigger mouth of the intake.
You will need sensor safe RTV to seal the MAP sensor to the intake. It will be loose and may cause a vacuum leak if you don't use sealant.
The bracket that bolts to the stud on the fuel rail and holds the throttle cable will also need to be taken to a grinder for a little trim work.
I wouldn't drive it much before the tune if I didn't have to. Lots of air changes. Probably will run; but I wouldn't hot rod it.
That's about all I can think of for now. Good luck and take your time!

 

ok:

#1 the valley bolts came with the intake, i verified this.
#2 he bought the intake seals from FAST, so we have those.
#3 DON'T have the fuel line seperator, wasn't sure if it was needed, THX

his other car needs to be serviced, and he doesn't want to do that now (idk why). he is really pushing to install this before he gets his other car serviced and wants to drive it. I told him as long as he doesn't "hot-rod" it, it will be ok to drive it to work, but that it run a lil lean with the headers and intake.

anymore tips????, anyone??? This is for a '00 Trans AM with the STOCK intake w/ emmisions (will be !EGR tho).

 

can anyone confirm the size of the fuel line disconnect tool i need?

 

you dont need to disconnect the fuel lines unless you are changing fuel rails. Just pop the rail/injectors off together and set it to the side with the fuel line still attached. Theres enough play to set the whole assembly out of the way. Saves you some time.

 

Fist off i would like to say the following; "**** you GM, **** you very much!!!!!"....christ, who designes this ****?!....

The install went pretty well, it was my first time so i went really slow and was very meticulous with things; the directions from FAST coupled with the write up from LS1Howto.com made the job so much easier then it would have been. The following is what i would recomend to anyone who is installing one the first time; the car is a '00 Trans am:

#1- Take your time; read the directions and write up a couple times BEFORE you do the install. TAKE YOUR TIME; there're a lot of plugs and sensors that need to be unplugged.

#2 - Buy a new Oil Pressure Sensor Unit, trust me, that little bastard WILL break . I would like to thank Auto Zone for having one, instock, on a Sunday!!!

#3- Disconnect the fuel lines; you can do it when the whole rail assembly instact to try to save time, but you don't have a lot of room and trying to wiggle **** around makes it not worth the trouble. You want as much room as possible.

#4- have someone with small hands; the 3 rear connections to the intake will try your patience especiall b/c you have tp put them on by feel. I would like to thank GM for their wonderful design...

My total 1st install time was +/- 6 hrs; that is b/c we broke the damn Oil Pressure Sensor Unit and went slow. The car fired right up, no leaks or anything. You WILL need a tune; upon start up the car ran fine and idled at around 1K; if you rev'd it to 2K the car took about 2-3 sec to level out back to 1K. We let the car idle for 15 minutes and once every 5 minutes the car would rev back to 2k on its own and then level back out. That might be b/c i forgot to go back over the intake bolts and tighten them fully down , my friend did that after i left so IDK if that "fixed" anything. Just remember that the stock size is 76mm and the new one is 92mm; that is A LOT more air and the car doesn't know WTF is going on. We also have the STOCK MAF (unscreened), STOCK SLP Lid, and headers; so a tune is badly needed. I don't think he wants to spring for an 85mm MAF and lid; he is CHEAP!

Just take your time; if anyone has any questions please feel free to ask!

 

Lol, i take it your working on a f-body... lol not easy but then again the f-body was never intentded to hold an ls1 it was just kind of thrown in there. Its still easier to work on than most other car companys vehicles... ever worked on a chrystler... My buddy is is in the automotive cource and all the chrystler guys talk about is all the bull they have to do to fix cars.. Lol Gm is not that bad actually.

 

LOL, i hope it was just "thrown" in there; i would hate to think that a college educated person intentionally DESIGNED it like that. ****, half our motor is under the god damn cowl. it isn't that bad as long as you take ur time (make sure u have a lot of it), but i was thinking "why would they intentionally make a car this hard to work on?!"

When i first looked at the intake, i got a lil intimadated b/c of all the **** laying on top. I was thinking "im going to **** something up; install it in the wrong place, not remember how to install it..." but everything pretty much falls into place; sensor's are cut to lenght so they only reach the correct plug, ect.

I just hope i can give someone who is on the fence about doing their own install some hope and encouragement to try it; w/o sugar coating anything!

 

^^ its a lot easier than it looks. Everything can only go in one spot, all the sensors have different sized/colored connections, the injector plugs only reach to the intended injector, the PCV hoses can only go in one spot, just have to lift from the REAR of the intake before you slide it forward to clear the OPS unit. Also using a rubber band to hold the back 4 intake bolts up makes it cake.

 

yea i figured that out when i got into it. The hard part is not being able to see certain sensors and plugs, but i got through it.

he is stillusing the stock 78mm MAF (descreened) and SLP's lid; i told him I HIGHLY recommended he upgrade to a FT 85mm Lid and a 85mm MAF to keep the air induction as even a possible, but idk if he will heede my advice. IDK how they will be able to get a good tune out of a 92mm intake coupled with a 78mm MAF/Lid.

w/e, lol.

 

you don't have to get an aftermarket mass air or bigger lid. I made 505hp through stock mass air and slp lid. I don't beleive the price you would pay for the lid and mass air would be worth the extra 5hp.

 

How does the stock TB hook up to the 92mm FAST intake? Do you need a special adapter?

 

Thanks for putting this thread together, I'm buying a FAST Intake soon, but it will be the intake for a stock throttle body, no 92mm for me. But all this info will be very useful

 

he bought a 92mm TB from FAST. IDT the stock 78mm one will work; i don't see how it could.

 

he is planning on doing a H/C later on; i had told him to just get a LS6 intake for cheap and wait until he is ready to do the H/C to spend the serious money, but he didn't want to. So i told him to get this intake so that he only spends the "big money" once.