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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 08:40 AM
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Ok here is my situation. I thought the cam I bought from one of the more reputatable sponsors was what i asked for...turns out its not. Turns out that the cam i have is a 224/228 .568/.571 114. I was thinking of putting 1.8 rockers to bring up the lift a but to about .602/.605. What will I get out of this? What i mean is will it shift my peak power up and will I loose power under the curve...that kind of stuff.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:07 AM
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No one?
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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Not adviseable due to the ramp rate of your lobes.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Not adviseable due to the ramp rate of your lobes.
Would you mind explaining why? The cam is only a XE lobe.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Because with the ramp rate being sharp, the valvetrain will be under stress to control everything.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by badaSS346
Ok here is my situation. I thought the cam I bought from one of the more reputatable sponsors was what i asked for...turns out its not. Turns out that the cam i have is a 224/228 .568/.571 114. I was thinking of putting 1.8 rockers to bring up the lift a but to about .602/.605. What will I get out of this? What i mean is will it shift my peak power up and will I loose power under the curve...that kind of stuff.
What is it your wanted from the cam? Did you communicate the results you wanted to the company which spec'd the cam?

What are the results you got from your cam installation? Did you do before and after dyno runs? What does the new cam do for the car's performance? Did it help or hurt driveablility?

I am suggesting a plan before throwing parts at an engine. It works well for others. You might give it a thought.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Because with the ramp rate being sharp, the valvetrain will be under stress to control everything.
He's right. Plus, the small gain you might see wouldnt be worth the money spent and extra stress on the valvetrain. Fwiw, my cam is only .525 lift and I'm in the neighborhood of 400rwhp.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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my car has run a best of 122 at 11.8 (traction issues) with the small cam so by no means is the car a slouch. My heads really would benifit from a cam in the .600 lift area just because of how good they flow uptop. My theory was that since the cam is an XE cam and it is a smaller, older design it may benifit from some added lift. But what i dont understand is how it is going to stress out the valve train that much. There are plenty of cams out there with north of .600 lift without issues. i have TEA gold duel springs that are good for .650 so i wont max them out. Another thing i dont under stand is how say a 230/236 with the same lift would be less stress on the valve train.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 09:56 AM
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The different lobes accelerate the valvetrain differently. Larger rocker ratios "amplify" that lobe's profile causing velocities, accelerations, and loads that the cam wasn't designed to impose on the system.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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^^ What he said ^^

Now mind you, it is not that it cannot be done, it is just not recommended.
If you want a bit more lift you could run a set of Crane Gold 1.72 variable lift rockers. They should be good for another 15+rwhp, they are adjustable but pricey (~600$ or so).
Those rockers will go as much as 1.82 lifts around .200 and then settle back to stockish ratio at max lift.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
^^ What he said ^^

Now mind you, it is not that it cannot be done, it is just not recommended.
If you want a bit more lift you could run a set of Crane Gold 1.72 variable lift rockers. They should be good for another 15+rwhp, they are adjustable but pricey (~600$ or so).
Those rockers will go as much as 1.82 lifts around .200 and then settle back to stockish ratio at max lift.
Looking for more low lift flow? (Why?) Looking for higher pushrod loads? Looking for more chance for valve bounce due to the higher rocker ratio at he seat? If so, "Quick lift" rockers are for you. Make sure you use more spring and stronger pushrods as recommended by the manufacturer.

Personally I'd spend the money and energy on the correct cam for the application and something more like mid-lift geometry (or stock LS) rocker arms.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 02:03 PM
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Im thinkin i may just leave it alone for now. I cant justify putting in another cam in a motor that i plan on taking out anyway down the line.
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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Imagine a see-saw (teeter-tootter) if you will. You are both on same length ends. You want to launch your friend higher so you lengthen his end of the see saw. Even though your friend goes higher you now require much more force to do it. 1.7 stock is even a pretty rapid rate. LT1s only come with 1.5s. If you want to increase lift do it with the cam. It's the hardest part in your drivetrain.
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Old SStroker
Looking for more low lift flow? (Why?) Looking for higher pushrod loads? Looking for more chance for valve bounce due to the higher rocker ratio at he seat? If so, "Quick lift" rockers are for you. Make sure you use more spring and stronger pushrods as recommended by the manufacturer.

Personally I'd spend the money and energy on the correct cam for the application and something more like mid-lift geometry (or stock LS) rocker arms.
Yes I agree totally
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Old SStroker
Looking for more low lift flow? (Why?) Looking for higher pushrod loads? Looking for more chance for valve bounce due to the higher rocker ratio at he seat? If so, "Quick lift" rockers are for you. Make sure you use more spring and stronger pushrods as recommended by the manufacturer.

Personally I'd spend the money and energy on the correct cam for the application and something more like mid-lift geometry (or stock LS) rocker arms.
Speaking of which, what happened with him? I see that MEI (mid-lift.com) no longer exists...
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