Home porting pics
#21
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
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Heres a set of 241s I did, your limited on that casting. But the 243s you can do some more guild boattaiing. Check the guildes after, I hear they can tighten up and move when you fully blend the casting support out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...highlight=port
I have a dyno with those hand ported heads, with stock valves and valvejob. And the stock un touched 241s on my car now.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...highlight=port
I have a dyno with those hand ported heads, with stock valves and valvejob. And the stock un touched 241s on my car now.
#26
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Port work looks good so far. I think every hot rodder should try home porting at least once. I've never done a set of LS1s, but have ported old school heads of various makes, and the short side radius of the intake port always requires extreme care. A mistake here will cause a dip that really hurts flow. I port this area by feel; I use my finger to feel where the ridges/high spots are and use a cutter or roll to lightly touch them up, always keep the tool moving and vary the angle.
I also like to use a small light to shine light down the opposite side of the port instead of having the light blocked by the tool. Also, I like to plug the valve guides with rolled up paper towel pieces to keep the crud out of there.
I also like to use a small light to shine light down the opposite side of the port instead of having the light blocked by the tool. Also, I like to plug the valve guides with rolled up paper towel pieces to keep the crud out of there.
#27
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Bowl work, blending and smoothing is critical. So Best is to visualize the air flow. Still a little work under the guide. I've done my own heads LT and LS, my LTs flowed 255 @ .550 intake and 190 @ .550 exh. Overall they are ok #s. My LS heads are done but need to get the valves installed and flowed. This time #s should be more...