First thought was something in the heads, but they were brand new so I ruled that out until I was told by a buddy, who bought a new set of Dart heads for his LS6, that his valve seals weren't installed correctly. His car had the same symptoms as mine. It could very well be something else, but I know it is possible even for professionals to make mistakes. Next step is ventialtion of all this extra crankcase pressure.


I have Pacesetter Race Style headers.

 

Hey first of all calm down! Listen to tsp and take breath ! I just put a 402 in my car from tsp ! Son of a bitch smoked like a chimney ! Ls6 vallly pcv system and self made catch can ! I was freakn out just like you ! Turns out all it was .... was the pcv system and the fact that i needed a few more miles on it! I Put a breather on it along with a new catch can ! Honestly 2500 miles and she is smoke free! I am not a believer in any of this junk *** oil ( amsoil , penzoil , mobil one , any of the **** race not race its alll shittttttttttttttt! 16 oz of oil nets ya about 3.5 oz of solid oil ! But i am not gonna get into that here cause every swinging dick is gonna disagree! Anyway use what ya got change often and put some miles on here with a new pcv setup ! Do a search on here ! Some really good articles about it and your same problem! These stroker motor produce so much more crankcase pressure than stock !
But it just my opinion and everyone else has there ! Oh check out Quatum blue Oil! Best money you will spend and funny thing is you get nuttn but oil !
Good luck !
Oh tsp wont do ya wrong !!!!!!!!!!! ( TRUST ME)))))))) !!!!! Some solid eggs there !

 

Hey I just found this thread. I've been researching LS strokers and I'm curious to know what you find out. There was an article in Car Craft about stroking LS engines. Here's a little quote:

" We also spoke with Judson Massengill, owner of the School of Automotive Machinists in Houston. Massengill says he dislikes the 4" stroke crank packages for a street engine because they have difficulty with oil control. Apparently, the excessive piston rock at botttom dead center causes oil control problems."

Does anyone have any thoughts on that quote?

 

I don't like that quote....especially since mine will be using a 4.100" stroke. Very curious also to see responses

 

Hey I mentioned the same Car Craft quote as I posted above on a thread over at pro-touring.com a while ago.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sho...t=47875&page=2

Steve1968LS2 works for Popular Hotrodding Magazine so If you read it you've probably seen his LS2 powered 68 camaro named Bad Penny. His thread was about using a 4" stroke in his LS2 and his response to what I quoted was that the Wiseco pistons he had supposedly addressed the piston rock issues.

here is the info Steve posted from Wiseco:
FROM WEISCO:
Wiseco’s LS series pistons are designed to take the power of high boost or nitrous applications, but run reliably and quietly on the street. The 2618 alloy is stronger than 4032, but typically wears quicker. To remedy this, Wiseco uses a permanent skirt coating that lasts the life of the piston. Some forged pistons also have a reputation for being noisy, so Wiseco offsets the pins like the o.e. to reduce this noise on startup. A low friction ring package is designed to maximize ring land thickness and utilizes a special oil ring design that reduces oil consumption. Because the pistons swing very close to the reluctor ring on LS engines, Wiseco was the first to design a forging around a 2.250” wristpin length. To make this possible, it was designed with just enough pin boss spacing to fit the factory connecting rod width. This further increases pin bore bearing area and reduces pin flex as well. Wiseco is the first to offer multifit valve pockets on their pistons. If a guy starts off with a ls1 or 2, and wants to install L92/LS3 heads or even LS7 head later on a bigger bore engine, he can run the same piston. The K464 series piston uses the Wiseco flow-dome technology to hit the needed compression ratio target. Although it’s in the testing stages, the domes are designed to keep air flowing with less turbulence past the valves when the piston is around tdc. Some LS stroker kits are known to have oil consumption. This is mostly a function of piston rock at BDC. Through a lot of research, Wiseco has designed a skirt cam and taper combination that maintains a full diameter at bdc; this keeps oil consumption and skirt wear to a minimum.

I posted this because I would hate for any of us to spend our hard earned money on a stroker kit and end up with oil control problems and pre-mature piston wear. Hopefully Wiseco's pistons truly prevent this and hopefully other manufacturers will address this also.

 

My LS6 valley cover arrived a couple of days ago and will be put on as soon as I have time, probably a week. I am also putting a breather on each valve cover. I'll let everyone know how it works out after some more miles have been put on it.

 

Hello all im Davids friend Gary. Me and David took the intake manifold off yesterday and valley cover to see what may be causing the massive amount of oil consumption. Well im not going to point fingers, im just going to post a few pics showing the puddles of oil ontop of the valves. Hoping Texas Speed will chime in.

 

post exactly *which* total seal rings are used. conventional gap or gapless top

 

I dont see a piston ring gap or brand to cause Oil puddling ontop of a Valve.?

 

valve seal's ?

 

Total Seal - File fit rings.

 

Update .. Today we installed a brand new LS6 Valley cover and upgraded the PCV system entirely including a brand new PCV valve. Then removed all intake rocker arm bolts to Teflon and seal them to perfection. After doing this we installed brand new Spark plugs and took the car out to see if this corrected the Smoking issue. It did not. The car smokes extremely bad on deceleration.

This is what we got after 5 miles of driving after everything was completed. Soaking wet with oil sparkplug?

 

you definitley have some bad valve seals,pull your valve covers and remove the valvesprings and change the seals.Your spring retainers may be hitting the tops of the seals causing them to go bad.

 

that looks like way to much oil to be valve seals.
this is how much my guides/seals leaked and the plug was never that wet.my guides had like 3x the clearance spec

 

TSP told me that the valve guides were put on by GM, and that the valve seals weren't the problem. I was consuming way too much oil for it to be the seals.

Well now the crankcase is ventilated well with a new LS6 valley cover, valve cover breather, and brand new PCV valve. Intake runners on heads and Intake were cleaned very well before then went back on the car also.

Problem doesn't appear to have changed whatsoever. Smoke is still billowing out the back of the car when it decelerates and the plugs have oil all over them 5 miles after being replaced.

Whats next?

 

Heads were built by Texas speed. Bottom end ring issues will not put puddles of oil ontop of a valve.

 

yeah your problem is definitley coming from the heads.

 

I just about gaurantee its your Rings.... My buddy James at Xtreme Powersports (sponsor on here) was having problems with his Wheel 2 Wheel 402 stroker. They had it out of the car 3 times before they got it figured out. They pulled the heads off and had them checked and completely reassembled. Nothing wrong with them. They put all new bearings in the engine and put it in and it still had oil puddled in the intake on the valves. It was still smoking badly. It ended up being the rings. I forget which ones he had in it and which ones they put back in it. I will find out though. Call Xtreme Powersports (sponsor here) and talk to James, he can tell you more about it....

 

valve seals....are you running double springs and what for valve seals are in there. Stock seals will not clear correctly with double spring but that's usually pretty obvious. Rings can't put oil on top of an intake valve and can be diagnosed pretty easily with compression check/leak down.
Hope you get it figures out...the exhaust system should be pretty well rust proof by now!

 

The valve seals are "top hat" style due to the dual valve spring.