So, it seems to me that if you install a cam with a degree wheel kit and it all lines up fine (or close enough) then just use an LS2 timing set. If it doesnt then buy the adjustable timing set.
in other words, dont buy a timing set until you degree the cam.

Now here is another question. Cant you adjust the sprocket with an offset key? I've never held an adjustable timing set in my hands, so I'm not familiar with exactly what part is adjustable.

Good info here.

 

Good theory, but the chain sets themselves are one of the causes for the VE's being off from design. You can have one set and it be spot on, swap to another with the same part number and all, and be off several degrees. It's not just camshafts that can be off!

 

exactly. your best bet would be to buy the gm chain if thats what you want, and test the cam position. and then yes, if its off you'll have to get rid of it and buy the adj. one. the chain/gears themselves are just one of the things, as mentioned, that could be the reason its not spot on where its supposed to be.
I think I have heard of an offset key for the LS1's. not sure though. that could poss. move it a tiny bit. but if its off, to me just buy an adj. set and your good to go no matter what else.

 

So even with the degree wheel and the correct tool, you'll still be off with the LS2 timing chain set? I bought the LS2 chain set already and I don't wanna go through the adjustable one.

 

Maybe not. The only way to know if it's all lined up properly is to degree it. You may find that it's spot on with that chain and you won't have to adjust anything. You may also find it's off a few degrees and you won't be able to sleep at night if you don't make it right.

 

Ok, let's see if I understnad this correctly;

After install the LS2 chain, I've to degree it with the wheel. If I spot on, I'm cool. If not, I've to change out the LS2 chain for adj. chain to degree it. Correct?

However, Predator-Z has mentioned this, how does he degree with LS2 timing chain with the degree wheel?

 

Yup. Once you check it and it matches your cam card, you can slap it back together and feel confident you are making your engine happy...mechanically anyway. I saw the post earlier by Predator and was wondering what he meant too. Maybe he will come back later and explain. Maybe jumping a tooth on the gear to fix an out of whack situation?

 

Has anyone ever run across a GM cam that was off? Say something like an LS6 cam or Hotcam, are they ever off? Seems like GM's would be right on the money. Just curious.

Good info in this thread.

Let's say you had an LS6 cam and it degreed correctly. What would happen if you advanced it 4 degrees, what about retarding it 4 degress?

 

Advancing a cam brings the powerband lower in the rpm range and retarding it raises the rpm of the powerband but bottom end drops off pretty fast!

 

ever notice 2 identical cars same car, same mods, and one is way faster?

 

Ahhh, makes sense!

Hate to get off topic, but funny you should post something at this very moment Irocss85. 20 seconds ago I gave your link to How to Flycut Pistons to a new guy on the board. Good job on that and thanks for sharing it with everyone.

 

cool! glad to help anyone I can. I was learning too when I did it, and figured alot more people might feel comfortable about goin ahead with the "right" cam instead of a smaller one just because they were scared to flycut. I was actually goin to do a write up on this subject too but I found enough sbc ones online already figured it wasnt really nec.

 

i got my degree cam kit...but i already have a ls2 setup im waiting preadator too...

 

if im thinking correctly..on the ls2 timing chain...you would just move your cam on the chain seperate from the crank...(...jumping a tooth or two.)...untill your cam dials in where it should be..if ur dots dont line up anymore..then once you have it where u want..u can make your own dot...so that u know where your at with that gear set in the future...the seperate keyways are just giving you automatic points of reference...but with out them u would just go by tooth rather than keyway.

 

this is what i plan to do unless someone can confirm it will not work

 

a tooth is a lot, not very accurate, but as Pred-Z stated mark it and try it, might not work for everyone or it might get you close

 

well, your not goin to just "try it" are you? what pred. Z is talking about is moving it, then SEEING EXACTLY how it affects the position of the cam. you can get away with a few deg. either way. but I think he means either to advance/retard the cam an exact amount, or if its off a deg. or two or three, see if one of the other key's gets it exactly on. he didnt mean just change the position, and see if it runs ok. that could be disastrous. with valves crashing into pistons all over the place.

 

right i understand that sorry guess my post was confusing. I wanted to know if some one knew how much one tooth would add up to in degrees?

 

i had my cam doctored...spec was 108icl and the cam doc said 108....now if i install dot to dot what am i checking for?...sorry cam degree dumb here

 

Comp sells an infinitely variable sprocket that's reasonably priced. I'm on my 4th cam using it. I change my chain from ime to time, but the sprocket is like new after about 65,000 miles.