Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Cam Choice for carb motor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-05-2009, 04:34 PM
  #41  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
1997bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Aztec, NM
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by luckyhenriksen
Oh great those prices look better. Is there a certain length I need or are those all for stock motors
If you use the stock piston's then you will end up useing part # 2-ICR6100-944P. If you choose to buy new pistons then you will use either 2-ICR6100-927 or 2-ICR6125-7/16.
Old 01-05-2009, 05:29 PM
  #42  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
luckyhenriksen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for so much help 97bird, what would you suggest as a good piston for the stock bore, with stock L92 heads. Something strong, not too expensive, and able to produce good compression for a street motor.
Old 01-06-2009, 04:36 AM
  #43  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
1997bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Aztec, NM
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by luckyhenriksen
Thanks for so much help 97bird, what would you suggest as a good piston for the stock bore, with stock L92 heads. Something strong, not too expensive, and able to produce good compression for a street motor.
I found three companies that make a piston to fit your application. They all use the 6.125" long connecting rod (2-ICR6125-7/16). The most expensive will probably be Diamond, part # 11541, I did a quick search and the cheapest that I had seen was $627.99 w/o piston rings. The next was a Weisco part # K398XS that comes with rings for the year 2009 according to thier website, but I was unable to find internet pricing for it. The last piston part number that I have will probably be the cheapest of the three. Mahle makes a piston & ring kit part # L92314000F04, but again I was unable to find internet pricing on it. I would call several of the sponsors and try to get availability & pricing for them. Sorry I couldn't find more info for you but I'm out of energy after putting a 20 hr. day in.
Old 01-06-2009, 09:13 AM
  #44  
TJ
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
 
TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: pensacola fl
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

i just bought some new srp pistons from jegs. they were 560 with rings. they arent for big shots or boost. putting the motor together right now.
its another option for you. budget pistons and rods, you could forged the bottom end pretty cheap.
Old 01-06-2009, 09:38 AM
  #45  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
luckyhenriksen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok thanks guys, I am not planning nitrous/boost yet, I just don't want to break stock pistons. Would it be totally worthless to use new rods with the original pistons?
Old 01-06-2009, 10:41 AM
  #46  
TJ
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
 
TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: pensacola fl
Posts: 3,051
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by luckyhenriksen
Ok thanks guys, I am not planning nitrous/boost yet, I just don't want to break stock pistons. Would it be totally worthless to use new rods with the original pistons?
yes. waste of time.
id do pistons and rod bolts and reuse the factory rods before i put the factory pistons back in on good rods.
good luck.
Old 01-06-2009, 06:50 PM
  #47  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
luckyhenriksen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Alright maybe I will just keep saving for a stroker rotating assembly lol.......
Thanks guys
Old 01-06-2009, 07:06 PM
  #48  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Shawn MacAnanny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Delaware
Posts: 2,105
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I wouldnt run boost on stock pistons on rods but i would say go ahead and run NA stock rods and pistons. My engine took a hit in the oil pan when i had bought it. Timing cover was smashed, oil all leaked out. Figured it was shot but stuck it in anyway. I did a compresions test 7 cylinders were 0-30 pise and 1 was 130psi. I installed all my stuff anyway let it heat cycle and today every cylinder compression test at 165psi within 2 psi. It's really NOT that hard to pull an engine and rebuild is especially in your truck.

These guys are usually talking about being in 4th gens or vettes where engine removal can be a pain in the ***. I can remove the engine in my firebid in less than an hour if i had to. I know it might be double work but if you dont have the money, you dont have the money man.
Old 01-06-2009, 08:08 PM
  #49  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
luckyhenriksen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ya I don't mind swingin the engine in and out, the bay in my truck is cavernous. Plus, if I am putting something better back in, I am more than happy to yank it out =]



Quick Reply: Cam Choice for carb motor



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:40 PM.