what is this noise?
what is this noise? http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...=VIDEO_004.flv
was coming home the other day, got out to open the garage and she died on me. when i went to restart it, it took about 30-45 seconds to start (the motor was warm, too.). so i started to pull in, and the car pretty much fell on its face. i had to keep in around 2500 rpms to make it up the drive. got inside, opened the door and it died on me again. went to restart it and it didn't turn over. i said f it and took a shower. went to start it back up after my shower and it was making this noise.
i pulled the valve covers off, everything looked good. so i decided to replace the lifters. they all seemed fine but since i had the heads off i decided to go ahead and replace them anyway. got everything back together and it's still making this noise. i dunno wtf it is. any help would be appreciated...
was coming home the other day, got out to open the garage and she died on me. when i went to restart it, it took about 30-45 seconds to start (the motor was warm, too.). so i started to pull in, and the car pretty much fell on its face. i had to keep in around 2500 rpms to make it up the drive. got inside, opened the door and it died on me again. went to restart it and it didn't turn over. i said f it and took a shower. went to start it back up after my shower and it was making this noise.
i pulled the valve covers off, everything looked good. so i decided to replace the lifters. they all seemed fine but since i had the heads off i decided to go ahead and replace them anyway. got everything back together and it's still making this noise. i dunno wtf it is. any help would be appreciated...
alternator and oil is good. no metal shavings in the oil. I haven't pulled the filter and cut it yet because I had to go out of town for a few weeks.
the gentleman I bought it from said he had rebuilt the motor approximately 20k miles ago. I can't verify the validity of that claim because I didn't get any receipts or anything but I certainly have my doubts because i've found some other discrepancies in his claims. i'm hoping its not a rod.
the gentleman I bought it from said he had rebuilt the motor approximately 20k miles ago. I can't verify the validity of that claim because I didn't get any receipts or anything but I certainly have my doubts because i've found some other discrepancies in his claims. i'm hoping its not a rod.
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mrfrostberry, the same exact thing that happened to you happened to me. I have the same exact noise you have and it happened to me the same way you claim it happened to you. I have the exact symptoms that you claim. When I pulled the valve covers, everything looked good. I also had no metal shavings in the oil. When the motor was torn down, 2 collapsed lifters were found, new LS7 lifters were installed and everything was put back together with new gaskets, head studs, new oil, and when we cranked it the noise was there different, but still there. This noise is a spun rod bearing (at least for me it is). The problem here is the cost of fixing the bearing. It will cost more to fix the bearing and put a new complete rotating assembly on our LS1 block ($2,200 for either a 347 or 383 LS1 complete rotating assembly + another few hundred for block honing and balancing the assembly) than it would to just buy a larger displacement NEW fully built iron short block from a vendor. After doing extensive research and shopping for about 3 weeks, the most logical solution for me is to buy a fully built 408 iron block for about $3,400-$3600 (370ci iron block built is about $200 cheaper) depending who you buy from. Then salvage what I can from the LS1 to complete my motor and sell the rest I don't use (ie: LS1 block, used forged pistons, rods, crank etc.) This happened to me right before X-mas, so it became my Christmas present this year and I'm assuming this was your New Year's gift. Damn this blows....
By the way, this is my pricing and reasoning on New Forged Parts. I did not mention fully built aluminum short blocks because the prices are absurd. You may most definitely have a lower price if you cheap out and buy stock stuff. I'm building for a high horsepower street car, so nothing else will do it for me.
By the way, this is my pricing and reasoning on New Forged Parts. I did not mention fully built aluminum short blocks because the prices are absurd. You may most definitely have a lower price if you cheap out and buy stock stuff. I'm building for a high horsepower street car, so nothing else will do it for me.
Last edited by omore001; Jan 4, 2009 at 11:27 PM.
well damn. that sucks. I have a 5.3 I was planning on throwing in an s-10, but plans changed. so I still have the motor. I was thinking of just using that block and buying new internals and salvaging what I can. unfortunately I don't have the money for a built shortblock because I have to move to texas in a few weeks, and that's gonna be pretty expensive for me. so looks like i'm going with the 5.3 block for now. thanks for the help and advice guys.
it's a constant knock, and it's really annoying. i just wanted to turn my car off to make it stop. plus there was a huuuge power loss.
Mine did that very same sound in the video about a year and a half ago now. On a 29kmi car. Stock with headers and exhaust. Wife was driving when it started she was only 2 miles from the house, I had to go get it cause it would barely run. Had a random knocking sound. Found 2 bent spark plugs, #'s 7,8. Fixed those and it ran better but had a constant knock after that. Long story short, tore it all down, top to bottom, never found a thing. Got a rebuild from LPE, new heads, cam, lifters and all is well LOL. LPE said the short block was fine.... I know how you feel, I hope yours turns out better.