1999 Pontiac Trans Am Cheap Bolt ons?
#1
1999 Pontiac Trans Am Cheap Bolt ons?
I just got a 1999 trans am 6 speed for a great deal. It is a bone stock car what are the best things to do first on a budget to get more power? I am looking at a air lid, skip shift, long tubes and exhaust with no cats. I really want the car to run high 12's. thanks
#4
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Wait untill you add a bigger cam or heads and a cam, You'll need a tune after those mods because it will run rough and you'll gain good power from just a tune. I have HP tuner and you can turn off alot of things such as the skip shift, egr, air pump, rear o2 sensors ect ect.
#6
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Very good info above. The mod guide in the 'external engine' room also has a lot of good info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html
#7
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Should be close to 12's stock so you don't need heads/cam or big stuff.
Tires! I went 13.2@105 MPH with mine only a lid. With tires I could have gotten real close to 12's and I am an A4. Cheap bolt ons I did/have/doing:
- $300 for a set of drag radials first! (power does nothing without traction)
- $125 for a lid
- $200 for E-Bay stainless long tube headers (about the best bang for the buck HP bolt-on IMO)
- $300 for a catless 3" custom ORY
- $80 for Flowmaster 3" to 4" merge
- $75 for a a ported throttle body
- $140 for a Summit 25% underdrive pulley (or $25 option of running a short belt at the track)
- $50 for a 160 thermostat
- $125 for a tune/code delete on the above
- $350 for an LS-6 intake if yours doesn't have it (15 HP)
So depending if you have the intake or not for $1500 you should have the power to go low 12's or a high 11. To that list I would also add subframe connectors and a Lakewood driveshaft loop just to keep things in check.
I gained 6-7 MPH in the 1/4 from the above.
Tires! I went 13.2@105 MPH with mine only a lid. With tires I could have gotten real close to 12's and I am an A4. Cheap bolt ons I did/have/doing:
- $300 for a set of drag radials first! (power does nothing without traction)
- $125 for a lid
- $200 for E-Bay stainless long tube headers (about the best bang for the buck HP bolt-on IMO)
- $300 for a catless 3" custom ORY
- $80 for Flowmaster 3" to 4" merge
- $75 for a a ported throttle body
- $140 for a Summit 25% underdrive pulley (or $25 option of running a short belt at the track)
- $50 for a 160 thermostat
- $125 for a tune/code delete on the above
- $350 for an LS-6 intake if yours doesn't have it (15 HP)
So depending if you have the intake or not for $1500 you should have the power to go low 12's or a high 11. To that list I would also add subframe connectors and a Lakewood driveshaft loop just to keep things in check.
I gained 6-7 MPH in the 1/4 from the above.
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#9
Very good info above. The mod guide in the 'external engine' room also has a lot of good info:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-posting.html
Thanks so much this is exactly what I was looking for!!!!
#15
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ok dude, congrats on a good find and a great deal first of all! i was going low 10.3 in the 1000 ft (basically low 12's in the 1/4) with a K&N FIPK, p/p tb, Long tubes, 3in custom true duals and dynomax bullets through a six speed. the trick is learnin how to launch it cause you keep those 60 ft times down and you will see alot more on the overall et. Good luck im sure you will get there in no time!
#19
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Should be close to 12's stock so you don't need heads/cam or big stuff.
Tires! I went 13.2@105 MPH with mine only a lid. With tires I could have gotten real close to 12's and I am an A4. Cheap bolt ons I did/have/doing:
- $300 for a set of drag radials first! (power does nothing without traction)
- $125 for a lid
- $200 for E-Bay stainless long tube headers (about the best bang for the buck HP bolt-on IMO)
- $300 for a catless 3" custom ORY
- $80 for Flowmaster 3" to 4" merge
- $75 for a a ported throttle body
- $140 for a Summit 25% underdrive pulley (or $25 option of running a short belt at the track)
- $50 for a 160 thermostat
- $125 for a tune/code delete on the above
- $350 for an LS-6 intake if yours doesn't have it (15 HP)
So depending if you have the intake or not for $1500 you should have the power to go low 12's or a high 11. To that list I would also add subframe connectors and a Lakewood driveshaft loop just to keep things in check.
I gained 6-7 MPH in the 1/4 from the above.
Tires! I went 13.2@105 MPH with mine only a lid. With tires I could have gotten real close to 12's and I am an A4. Cheap bolt ons I did/have/doing:
- $300 for a set of drag radials first! (power does nothing without traction)
- $125 for a lid
- $200 for E-Bay stainless long tube headers (about the best bang for the buck HP bolt-on IMO)
- $300 for a catless 3" custom ORY
- $80 for Flowmaster 3" to 4" merge
- $75 for a a ported throttle body
- $140 for a Summit 25% underdrive pulley (or $25 option of running a short belt at the track)
- $50 for a 160 thermostat
- $125 for a tune/code delete on the above
- $350 for an LS-6 intake if yours doesn't have it (15 HP)
So depending if you have the intake or not for $1500 you should have the power to go low 12's or a high 11. To that list I would also add subframe connectors and a Lakewood driveshaft loop just to keep things in check.
I gained 6-7 MPH in the 1/4 from the above.
As for bolt on stuff....
Lid
Headers
ORY OR High flow cats (theses car do not loose much at all)
Cat back of your choice
LS6 intake
Dyno tune for bolt ons.
My car made through a Moser 12 bolt and 3" steel DS 350rwhp and was running lean and timing was being pulled before the tune, also the car had a SLP lid, Dyntech headers with Cats, on a Corsa.
As for racing, you make so little power a Drag radial will prob hook, but you got a 10 bolt, so its either ride the clutch and probably fry it, or roll the dice and leave like a hero....
here is my car, mind you the race weight is off I suspect with me it's 3950 with some lighter rims and 4150 street trim.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html
Clean car BTW, go find your self that cover plate for the front bumper.