Question about head install
Question about head install I'm got a few things on my list to do this winter including installing an LS6 intake and poly motor mounts. So I get to thinking, hell since I'm pulling the intake and headers, why not get a set of heads and throw them on there too.
Now I'm confortable with doing any bolt on you can think of but I've never done anything head or cam related. I'm a DIY kind of guy so I would really like to do this myself. I found this thread http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3 and it looks pretty straightforward. Is it really this easy, or should I just put this off and leave it to a professional?
Now I'm confortable with doing any bolt on you can think of but I've never done anything head or cam related. I'm a DIY kind of guy so I would really like to do this myself. I found this thread http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3 and it looks pretty straightforward. Is it really this easy, or should I just put this off and leave it to a professional?
Heads on a Gen III motor are cake. Take the time to clean the deck surface with some scotchbrite and permatex gasket remover so that there is no debre from the old gaskets. Clean the bolt holes reallllly well and its all straight forward from there. If you can turn a wrench, you can install heads.
Tony.
Tony.
Nice, after reading through that ls1howto article I was thinking, you gotta be kidding me it's really that easy? I just wanted to make sure because I've bitten off more than I can chew before because some site or tv show made it look a lot easier than it actually was. I think I'm gonna go for it, just gotta do some research and find out what heads.
Yes... it is that easy. As long as you can read directions and can use a torque wrench, you should be golden. If you need any help, give me a call, I'd be glad to give you any tips when you get going on it.
Shane
Shane
I found wet sanding with some 2000 grit kicked *** for cleaning the deck.
Just relax and take your time.. the first time I did it on my 98 z28 it was a bit overwhelming, just follow the steps and label your bolts. Be very careful removing the intake manifold, it is very common to break the oil pressure sensor behind the manifold! Make sure you change the lifters as well, and only use NEW springs. The first time I pulled the heads it took me about 12 hours.. the 4th time, 2 1/2 hours.
Just relax and take your time.. the first time I did it on my 98 z28 it was a bit overwhelming, just follow the steps and label your bolts. Be very careful removing the intake manifold, it is very common to break the oil pressure sensor behind the manifold! Make sure you change the lifters as well, and only use NEW springs. The first time I pulled the heads it took me about 12 hours.. the 4th time, 2 1/2 hours.
Did it twice, first time is harder, 2nd time is piece of cake...just follow the steps carefully and youre done.
Something that is not written in there is that you should check your lifters and lifter trays...and even change em. Extra insurance and cheap. Because now I'm planning on a cam swap and maybe I will need to lift the heads again just to change lifters and trays...
Something that is not written in there is that you should check your lifters and lifter trays...and even change em. Extra insurance and cheap. Because now I'm planning on a cam swap and maybe I will need to lift the heads again just to change lifters and trays...
Alright, thanks for the help guys! I didn't even think about lifters, it would be a first changing those too. Any suggestions on which lifters? In a few years I might go with a bigger cam but I'm going to try to get the most out of my stock cam, the car might see an 1/8 mile track twice a year. Is there anything else I should do whlie I have the heads off?
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I'd go with the LS7 lifters and LS2 lifters. We have the lifters for $135 I think and the lifter trays are about $8 each. You'll need 4.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=107
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Shane
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=107
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Shane
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cant stress enough about cleaning the bolt holes for the head bolts.
they have to be clean of liquid. the holes are a dead end.
some people look over this and thats why you see "i broke a bolt off in my head" threads.
they have to be clean of liquid. the holes are a dead end.
some people look over this and thats why you see "i broke a bolt off in my head" threads.
definately get some hardened pushrods while youre doing it. and watch out for the inside lip on the headwhen youre torquing them down. those SOB are ******* sharp, i sill have blood stains in my engine bay
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Richmond VA
Actually, you won't break the bolt, your block will crack from hydraulic lock when your try to torque the them.
Haha LS1 heads are so easy. Im getting ready to tackle the dreaded Duramax headgasket swap, 38 shop hours is what it says and 42 head bolts which all have to be torque with an angle gauge twice.
This is the angle gauge i bought. You will need one if you're using stock bolts and not ARPs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=370140657507
As mentioned just make SURE the bolt holds are clean. Here's the easiest ways.
One you remove the water pump, take a shop vac and shop vac all 4 holes (covering alternate ones as neccesary with your hand) and vacuum out all of the coolant that remains in the engine. This will get 99% of the coolant out and prevent it from getting in your cylinders and bolt holes.
Take and old bolt and cut grove in it up the threads with a dremel (kind of like a thread tapper) and run it down each of the bolt holes (make sure there are no burrs on the threads). This grove will give the debris removed from the thread somewhere to fall to and it will all rest as the bottom of the bolt hole and you will then have clean threads. Them just blow the debris out with compressed air.
This is the angle gauge i bought. You will need one if you're using stock bolts and not ARPs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=370140657507
As mentioned just make SURE the bolt holds are clean. Here's the easiest ways.
One you remove the water pump, take a shop vac and shop vac all 4 holes (covering alternate ones as neccesary with your hand) and vacuum out all of the coolant that remains in the engine. This will get 99% of the coolant out and prevent it from getting in your cylinders and bolt holes.
Take and old bolt and cut grove in it up the threads with a dremel (kind of like a thread tapper) and run it down each of the bolt holes (make sure there are no burrs on the threads). This grove will give the debris removed from the thread somewhere to fall to and it will all rest as the bottom of the bolt hole and you will then have clean threads. Them just blow the debris out with compressed air.