I know there will be alot of guys that will say it wont help much, but if you hold this thing and see how stiff this is and the quality, you wont think that. You can see the custom ARP main studs in the top. Basically im building a 427ls1, which will be resleeved with DARTON MID sleeves. So I need to protect my investment!

Let me know what you guys think.

 

IMO it really depends on how much power your making. If your building a 427 that makes 500-650, your girdle is not really needed. All you really need is to pin the mains and use a good set of main studs. Once you get over the 1000hp mark it would be on my to do list but not that particular girdle. We're doing a girdle on my motor but it will make 2k+.

 

And what ive seen, there very expensive.

 

I dont think that particuar girdle support is expensive, when you need one the DM is not enough. You need one that ties the bottom end together.

 

I've read about this, and I get what your saying. But for a resleeved ls1, when your changing the structure of the whole block, there is no way this won't help. Not expensive if you research the material it's made out of. We also gotta remember that the LS1 oil pan was made to strengthen the block.

 

I agree, but it dosn't hurt. Specialy if your investing 1200 to get sleeves installed, and thats just labor!!

 

anyone else have any opinions on this?

 

Won't hurt and since you have it apart why not.I say go for it.

 

I believe EPP put one of those on a customers car, in one of the build pages they have. Even if your not making the power needed to use it, i would go ahead and use. Its cheap insurance, because rebuilding your motor isn't going to be if something happens. Good luck with the build.
-Joel

 

IT will at least keep the cap from coming apart should it split. Which will hopefully keep the crank from bouncing around. I wish I could remember who it was that actually split a cap and posted pictures of it. I believe it was on some's FI Motor. During a pass The oil pressure went to 0 and he shut it down. He had it towed back to his pit and they looked things over... seemed fine so they tried to start it. when it firied up, it was making a bunch of racket and nearly 0 oil pressure... Assuming it lost a pump and some bearings they took it home and tore it down. Thats when he discovered the broken main cap. All the bearings seemed ok No heat affect like you would see on a motor that was run low on oil or that spun a bearing. No other signs of what lead to the caps failure. It was just a weak stock cap and the crank was flexing enough under load that it split right up the middle... I believe both the block and crank were salvageable. I think he had billet caps installed after that...

 

If you could find some pictures that would be badass.

 

Ya I was looking but The only one I can find is another thread were the block flexed so much It came apart...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ood-stuff.html

 

Demitri says and has proof of 1400HP on an aluminum block. I've had mine in for 3 years and am happy. I will say this. You should line bore your block to be true. Most are off a few thousanths from the factory. Tell your machinist to skim the caps approximately .003" at the top to flatten the surface as there is a slight arch on the cap. When I torqued my crank down, it got tight. Steve Morse Racing discovered the problem and fixed it. He did the original work, but I assembled. His work measured perfectly. Other than that, it fits perfect. Even the dip stick hole is perfect. For milder applications, (1200HP or less), this girdle will be fine. Good Luck.

 

a Line Hone and checking the cap to girdle fitment is a good Idea!!! I didn't think of that....
This should esspecially be done since your installing new sleeves. The boring Machine is fixtured of the Mains for the new sleeves...

 

that will be done after i get the sleeves installed