Loud ticking from head area
First things first - add oil to full and see if it goes away. The lifters are hydraulic, meaning oil pumps them up. If you're low on oil, the lifter may not have enough flow to pump up.
Second - why would you replace one lifter for $60 when you can buy all 16 LS7 lifters for around $120? I just had a lifter fail after doing a cam swap, and just finished replacing the lifters. It is a fairly easy job if you can turn some wrenches.
I personally opted to drop the motor/kmember since I have access to a lift. You're going to need a torque wrench and a long breaker bar to do the head bolts. You're also going to need a power steering pulley remover, so you can take the power steering off of the DS head. Also a shop vac is nice when you're scraping the head gasket off of the block so you don't drop chunks of gasket in the coolant holes.
GM reccomends using "special sealant" on the head bolts. It is just plain ole blue threadlocker. The new head bolts will come with a sealant on them, but I put blue threadlocker on them as well.
Where the red rags are are where your lifters go, under the heads. It's not necessary to lift the motor up, I was pulling the pan to change the oil pump o-ring.
Second - why would you replace one lifter for $60 when you can buy all 16 LS7 lifters for around $120? I just had a lifter fail after doing a cam swap, and just finished replacing the lifters. It is a fairly easy job if you can turn some wrenches.
I personally opted to drop the motor/kmember since I have access to a lift. You're going to need a torque wrench and a long breaker bar to do the head bolts. You're also going to need a power steering pulley remover, so you can take the power steering off of the DS head. Also a shop vac is nice when you're scraping the head gasket off of the block so you don't drop chunks of gasket in the coolant holes.
GM reccomends using "special sealant" on the head bolts. It is just plain ole blue threadlocker. The new head bolts will come with a sealant on them, but I put blue threadlocker on them as well.
Where the red rags are are where your lifters go, under the heads. It's not necessary to lift the motor up, I was pulling the pan to change the oil pump o-ring.
just take it easy Chris... you might wanna think about adding a "breakdown/tow" coverage on your insurance, or pick up AAA... for the trip just in case...
Anyone have pictures of a collapsed lifter or how to check for it? I have been having this same problem for over a year, I just parked the car in the garage and took it apart and it's been sitting there for like 9 months... I just finally pulled the driver side head today and pulled the lifter and they seem fine, the only thing I can find is 1 or 2 small nicks at the top of the lifter cup on 2 of the lifters, could be just part of the casting though.
I haven't pulled the passenger head yet because I was almost certain the driver side was the problem.... is there any way to test them ?? Or would it be obvious which one is the problem?
I haven't pulled the passenger head yet because I was almost certain the driver side was the problem.... is there any way to test them ?? Or would it be obvious which one is the problem?
or otherwise visibly worn or messed up I wouldnt see the need to replace them. you might just check that the oil passage/hole through them isnt clogged up
otherwise, if you plan on building THIS engine up... go ahead and put some hardened ones in while your in there... they aren't TOO expensive... but I know things are adding up already...
is this a lifter too?
and does any body have a part number for a set of bolts. my parts guy said he could only seem to get them in singles. i need the ones that are all the same length 2004 and newer.
and does any body have a part number for a set of bolts. my parts guy said he could only seem to get them in singles. i need the ones that are all the same length 2004 and newer.
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From: Grande Prairie, AB. That's Canada you hoser.
I might be late in chiming in, but I too had a ticking noise on my driver's head.
After pulling the valve cover, my buddy got me to pull my pushrods and inspect them.
Turned out that I has scuff marks on all of them. The pushrods from the last two cylinders were hardly noticeable while the second cylinder was really noticeable.
When I rolled them on a piece of glass (mirror works too), all of them were slightly bent, even the passenger side. I replaced them with a used set that I bought for 50 bucks that had less than 3000miles.
I babied the car for the rest of the year and did a heads/cam/LT's swap while it was all apart over the following spring.
If you had the heads off, doing a cam swap would be a lot easier as you don't have to worry about the lifters, just pull them out.
Hardened pushrods sure wouldn't hurt either...
After pulling the valve cover, my buddy got me to pull my pushrods and inspect them.
Turned out that I has scuff marks on all of them. The pushrods from the last two cylinders were hardly noticeable while the second cylinder was really noticeable.
When I rolled them on a piece of glass (mirror works too), all of them were slightly bent, even the passenger side. I replaced them with a used set that I bought for 50 bucks that had less than 3000miles.
I babied the car for the rest of the year and did a heads/cam/LT's swap while it was all apart over the following spring.
If you had the heads off, doing a cam swap would be a lot easier as you don't have to worry about the lifters, just pull them out.
Hardened pushrods sure wouldn't hurt either...
Yup, it's the lifter, just had to change one of mine, pull the head, inspect all the lifters on that side, you should be able to easily spot which one is bad. A lifter from the dealer is around $60, you'll also need head gasket $25, and new head bolts $25. Do NOT use the old head bolts.
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From: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
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From: Cape Girardeau, Missouri
uLs1a-we sound almost identical! the sound, replacing the water pump about a week before, and it burning oil. idk what you are, if that affects it, and if it happened to you but im an A4 and when im in fourth and give it just enough gas before it downshifts, the car starts surging like its cutting in and out.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
uLs1a-we sound almost identical! the sound, replacing the water pump about a week before, and it burning oil. idk what you are, if that affects it, and if it happened to you but im an A4 and when im in fourth and give it just enough gas before it downshifts, the car starts surging like its cutting in and out.
i finally pulled everything off. a few lifters and lobes of the cam have "marks" from where it looks like little metal pieces would have scarred it but besides this my lifters are perfectly fine so idk where all the metal shavings are coming from and if my new lifters will even fix my problem. i rolled my rods on a piece of glass and they are bent ever so slightly that i dont think that would cause the problem either.
i finally pulled everything off. a few lifters and lobes of the cam have "marks" from where it looks like little metal pieces would have scarred it but besides this my lifters are perfectly fine so idk where all the metal shavings are coming from and if my new lifters will even fix my problem. i rolled my rods on a piece of glass and they are bent ever so slightly that i dont think that would cause the problem either.