cheap lq4 build ??'s
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i'm looking to build a motor on a slim budget and wondering about the lq4 engine. now i have a stock ls1 ,m6 w/ a ls6 intake and full bolt on minus the Fast intake. i have a set of 5.3 heads laying around that i was thinking of having worked to a Stage 2 or 3 at a local machine shop to go on the LQ4, but would a set of 243/799 Stage 2-3 work better for me. i plan on keeping the bottom end stock as possible. whats yr trucks did the LQ4 come w/ the 24 tooth reluctor on the crank ? (i dont wanna have to do anything to the bottom end other than chage oil pans). i was thinking about going w/ a TSP torquer 3 cam kit. how would this cam perform with either the set of 706 heads or would i see more gain from the 243's( car isnt a daily driver or a pure race car just a toy that i beat the **** out of on the back roads and mess around w/ every mustang and vette in traffic
) any suggestions w/ this build will be greatly appreciated. i had also planned on going w/ a Fast 90 intake and a 150 wet kit to help out on some extra HP. so any of you guys running this type of setup plz chime in here w/ ideas and dyno #'s if you have them
thanks in advance
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thanks in advance
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Here is what I did to my LQ4 I used the 02-04 zo6 aka ls6 cam think the last three numbers of the part # are 308 correct me if I am wrong! I also used a set of 243 heads and a LS2 intake not sure if you can use the 243 heads with the ls1 intake kinda pointless! also you will have to drill out the hole for the alternator! I haven't fired mine up yet so stay tuned!
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would the 317 heads work better than the 243's if they were reworked to a Stg. 2-3 . only reason i wondering about the 5.3 heads is for the higher compression compared to the 243/799 heads. i really want a motor thats gonna run stong NA w/o the juice .( i had only planned on using the 150 shot as needed
) and does any1 suggest anything bigger than the TQR 3 cam seeings the displacement is bigger???
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For a NA setup, you need to put the heads on with the smallest combustion chamber to get the compression as high as you can. You need to get the compression to the 10.5 to 11 to 1 range if you can. That just my 2 cents worth. The LQ4 with it's 9.4 to 1 compression needs tight heads to get it up to build good NA power. Why don't you get a set of good used LQ9 rods and pistons to get the compression up. I am building an LQ4 and picked up a good set of LQ9 rods and pistons for $125 shipped. The LQ9 rods are the came as the LS2 rods. They are alot better than the LQ4 rods. The LQ9 pistons are flat tops versus the LQ4 dished pistons.
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^^^ you do not want a very small combustion chamber for an NA motor. the smaller the combustion chamber is the more chance their is of getting knock. the best way to raise CR is to do it with the pistons. and it is not as easy as just buying some lq9 pistons and rods and slapping them on. you might have to overbore the block slightly depending on the condition and if you do that the factory pistons are pretty much garbage because they will be too small for the bore. and if you wanna do it properly you will have to rebalance the whole rotating assembly because the lq9 and the lq4 pistons have different weight. and at this point you might as well just get some forged pistons and rods.
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He like myself is trying to do a budget build. I don't think the smaller combustion chamber with the compression less than 11 to 1 would cause an issue. If we were talking about going over 11 to 1 that may change the equation. There is no doubt that we can get away with flat top pistons and a 64cc chamber. There should be no arm in using the LQ9 pistons and 64cc heads and being at 10.9 to 1.
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Both of them are right...You don't necessarily want teh smallest CC to raise compression, BUT, at these levels, it would be OK. That being said:
If you go through the trouble of pulling the motor down, I would put forged pistons in. I also understand if you are trying to do this on a budget and use the stock pistons. If you have teh chance, I would use the 317 heads over teh 243's also. Everything else has been said so....
If you go through the trouble of pulling the motor down, I would put forged pistons in. I also understand if you are trying to do this on a budget and use the stock pistons. If you have teh chance, I would use the 317 heads over teh 243's also. Everything else has been said so....
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how much hp /tq am i looking at (ball park figure) w/ just the LQ4 bottom end and a higher duration cam w/ a set of good heads(milled ,ported etc ) . it seems like by the time i change to the LQ9 pistons and rods and cam kit i'd be better off just ordering a forged 370 from 1 of the sponsors for around $1500-$1600(that way everythings new) and would be able to use the reworked 5.3 706 heads i already have for a kick *** street motor that would handle the nitrous well being forged.
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I am running a set of 5.3 heads on my LQ4 build fully ported and polished with 2.02/1.55 vavles puts the compression up around 11.5 with .041 gaskets. What exactly are the specs on a torquer 3? If you go with this size intake valve I wouldn't go past a 236 duration on the intake that is what I am running and tolerances are tight but no contact. Just make sure to run a spring with plenty enough pressure at open in order to keep valve float eliminated in the equation. Probably won't be able to go much over .580 lift at that duration as well. So you will have to make a decision as to high lift or big duration as both will not work together with stock pistons. There is always the option of flycutting but I chose to stay away from that as I will be spraying on my build as well and didn't like the idea of hot spots and unmachined piston surface taking on that much heat. Owe yeah as for the reluctor ring I think they were all 24's up until sometime late in 04, you can get the signal adapter now so it doesn't really make any difference anymore.
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Like I said, I picked up my LQ9 pistons and rods for $125.00 shipped. I don't think that would compare to getting a forged shortblock. If it did, then I would get a forged shortblock.
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changing the pistons and rods is not a small job and not a cheap one aether. if i where you i would just save some money for forged pistons at least and some arp rod bolts. the labor is going to cost you exactly the same as installing the lq9 pistons or some forged units. it's up too you, but from what i am seeing right now it seems like you are going to tare the block up again if you install the lq9 pistons, you will always want more power, that's just the way it is. good luck
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i was only stating that by the time i purchased the lq4 motoer and bought all necessary parts to get the most out of the motor i could have just bought a forged 370 short block . seeing i dont have a lq4 lying around for free i'd have to invest in 1 to start w/ .
Swhanke engines are or were selling the 370 shortblock for $1499 so by the time i spent $1000-1200 on a used 60-80 K lq4 motor i'd be better off spending 2-300 extra buck for a NEW motor and slapping a set of heads and a cam kit for a strong proven performer w/ a set of 706 heads which i already have. I just need bigger valves installed in them . which will hardly cost me anything other than parts since i know the machine shop guy very well and wont hardly have to pay anything for labor.
i'm just trying to explore my options b4 deciding on which direction i'm going here. i've pretty much decided on the 370 forged setup for the money seeings there gonna cost about the same either way but i know what i've got (a motor that hasnt had the **** ran outta it) and will also handle the juice very well
thanks for the input guys
Swhanke engines are or were selling the 370 shortblock for $1499 so by the time i spent $1000-1200 on a used 60-80 K lq4 motor i'd be better off spending 2-300 extra buck for a NEW motor and slapping a set of heads and a cam kit for a strong proven performer w/ a set of 706 heads which i already have. I just need bigger valves installed in them . which will hardly cost me anything other than parts since i know the machine shop guy very well and wont hardly have to pay anything for labor.
i'm just trying to explore my options b4 deciding on which direction i'm going here. i've pretty much decided on the 370 forged setup for the money seeings there gonna cost about the same either way but i know what i've got (a motor that hasnt had the **** ran outta it) and will also handle the juice very well
thanks for the input guys
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i'm doing a budget lq4 right now 799 heads milled .040 polluter cam from tick performance victor jr. intake 750 dp carb msd 6010 box .040 head gaskets fly cut pistons putting it in a 85 t-type regal ex turbo car.i'm trying see how fast this car can go on a budget.so far i have a 1000 in the motor(junk yard low miles)500 intake and msd box new bought from a tech member at a deal 430 for the carb 700 for polluter cam kit 60 for the heads being milled the motor is a 02 so i'm not changing the rod bolts 250 for fly cutting pistons 150 for head gaskets 200 for used pacesetter headers needed minor massaging from the coach(my hammer)50 for motor mounts sorry to go on and on i'm sure i'm forgetting something.should be finished in the next week or two hopefully and i'll post some times...
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Heres my set-up. Literally just ordered my cam.
05 LQ4
5.3 heads, milled. CNC'd ported by Lingenfelter.
FAST 92 PTM 92
Kooks 1 7/8 Mufflex "style" exhaust
And . 230/236 .573 .578 114 cam.
Im hoping for 450 RWHP and good TQ.
Shouldn't have PTV issues. I almost went 236/240. But for some reason thought it wouldn't make me happy as my car sees ALOT of street driving and rare track time. Ill let you guys know once I get it tuned and on a dino with my 12 bolt and 4/11's.
05 LQ4
5.3 heads, milled. CNC'd ported by Lingenfelter.
FAST 92 PTM 92
Kooks 1 7/8 Mufflex "style" exhaust
And . 230/236 .573 .578 114 cam.
Im hoping for 450 RWHP and good TQ.
Shouldn't have PTV issues. I almost went 236/240. But for some reason thought it wouldn't make me happy as my car sees ALOT of street driving and rare track time. Ill let you guys know once I get it tuned and on a dino with my 12 bolt and 4/11's.