How hard are compression tests on a F-body I have pacesetter LTs i dont think it should be too hard except for #8

Im getting a bad noise on the passenger side in the valvetrain.

Friend#1 said comp.
Friend #2 said put a set of stock rockers back on. (its not rocker noise and is isolated to only the passenger side)

I had some rockers pull threads out of the heads and recently sent to machine shop to have the bosses for the rockers helicoiled. EVERYTHING in the engine is new, main bearings to rocker arms.

 

also is there any other recomendations? or ways to go about narrowing it down? I dont want to take the heads BACK off but if I have to there is no choice. Im tired of this damn car and its freakin luck... How can I know for certain if a lifter is collapsed ?

 

TTT i need as much help with this as possible guys.

 

Why would the rockers pull threads out of the head bosses? Haven't heard that as a common problem at all. Any ideas what happened there?

 

It doesn't have to be the head bolts. It could be bad rings, stuck valve, or timing.

I could see ANYTHING you do under the hood in these cars is a PITA. All the right bank cylinders will be tough. I don't really ave any tips for you, other than try going from underneath maybe, or start removing stuff to make space.

Although I don't think it's a compression issue. What does the noise sound like?

 

its like a solid tick. more solid then a pushrod but not a knock.
Buddy said if I have valvetrain issues a compression test should tell which cylinder. Im thinking about pulling off the coils, valve covers, and rockers and inspect the springs and retainers. (crossing fingers)

 

as far as the helicoils, when I was removing the stock rockers there was some galling on the threads and the new bolts with the harland sharps wouldnt even start. I always hand start every bolt. I just don't understand everything in the engine is NEW (with in give or take 500 miles) the harland sharps dont have any miles. The engine was rebuilt 500 miles ago the heads were installed at the same time with everything else.

 

From experience, remove both coil pack assemblies, remove egr tubes if equiped and lay untop intake. All cylinder are easy to access except for #8. Just use a normal compression gauge with a hose and screw it in.

OR, to test for valve or ring problems (leak down), I also used a old spark plug (tr55) and gutted it out, shoved a male air hose connector and welded it up (yeah, having a welded is nice). Make sure #8 is on DTC on compression stroke, put the car into gear (keeps motor from turning once air is injected into cylinder, or use a socket wrech to hold crank from turning) and shoot some air (60-90psi) into the cylinder. If you have a massive leak, listen through the throttle body and exhaust to see if any air is excaping past valves. Remove the oil cap and listen aswell. You won't have any gauges hooked up, but trust me, if something is wrong you will hear it. Only 10% pressure loss is acceptable.

Good luck!

 

Thanks guys...